I remember that spot at the oil filter, but if I'm remembering correctly, my header blocked most everything else. I like that idea about adding something to th lift surface. I'll have to approach it like that and see what I can find.

 

@rcannon409 here are those pics

The foam is actually the spacer blocks from a lithium battery.... They are so firm, and a piece of Masonite on top to spread the load

 

I have a 2012 and It has an Arrow header. The header tubes are probably 30% larger than stock and take up a lot of room we would like for the jack.

I don't remember the exact figure, but it was about 15 lbs lighter than stock, so it's not as strong.

 

what year is yours ? And, would your aftermarket header get in the way ?

 

This must be new? I didn't think we had this option.

I just saw this from t rex. I wouldn't leave it on the bike, although it is made for that purpose. It looks like it's easy enough to install, as needed and the. Remove it when the lifting is over.

T-Rex Racing Kawasaki 2020 - 2024 Ninja 1000SX, 2025Ninja 1100SX / 1100SX SE Adjustable Center Stand

T-Rex Racing Kawasaki 2020 - 2024 Ninja 1000SX, 2025Ninja 1100SX / 1100SX SE Adjustable Center Stand

www.t-rex-racing.com

 

Fair enough.... i am not replacing the headers....well not yet... Got some Delkevic cans coming.....

 

I have an aftermarket header and I believe it blocks most of that area we want to use for the jack. I think that's how I ended up with wh 1/2" rod and car jack to support th front.

 

I will do... dont hold your breath... ha ha....

I wll try and take a pic of the way i did it the other day and post that up.
In all honesty it worked very well..... the only thing i dont like is the laod on the headers, mind you
they dont move a mm at all.

What i have done in the past is lift the bike with the headlift, pluck the wheel and forks out, and then support under the engine, thats a heap less weight sitting on the jack. It would jus be nice to remove
one step from the job.

 

I think the pins are necessary for the front lift to have any chance. Will you post a pic when you finish yours? That stand is useless the way it is.

 

YEah, that big scissor unit i have will do the rear pretty easy, but, i am going to make new rests
for it, basically longer threaded section with the L top an locator pin.
Going to make one L bracket broader so that it reaches sideways to locate the pin, and that sould, hopefully alleviate the need to pull the O2 sensor.
And i reckon the bottom lobes of the frame, below the swingarm pivot would and could be a great
pickup point at the rear.

 

I did it on the ninja. The half inch rod held it without much bending. I was surprised, but it did really well.

I was going to support this front with our worthless jack, but I used a car jack from an old Dodge that was small enough to fit. I left the bike like that for several days when I was having the shock serviced.

The rod fits really well. Almost like it was designed for this.

My rear stand is tall so I had to use stepping stones under my car supports to get enough height. Those took up too much floor space, but otherwise it was all ok.

 

Yes, i have done that previously on bikes, but i could get closer to the frame on it,
the Ninja makes it hard and the rod would really bow pretty badly i think

 

The last time I lifted the front end, I did this. A forum member showed this method, years ago, and it's an excellent way to support this bike.

I used a half inch rod through the swingarm pivot. One side of the pivot was slightly too small so I used a half inch bit to open it up. I could have used the bare bit to enlarge the hole as it was just slightly undersized, as built.

The guy in the picture used 5/8", but 1/2" is the size for our bike.

I placed the car stands where I needed them and lifted the back of the bike with my rear stand. At that point I sat the bike down on the car stands.

Total cost for this shouldn't be much more than 50.00 and it's not going to fall.

 

Lol....I hoped for the same thing when I bought mine. You had that moment where you thought, "How did I mess this up"? The specific jack, in the manual, was expensive.

It felt like the jack was a few inches too far towards the rear, didn't it? It did support the bike, sort of, but I never felt comfortable enough to raise the front end.

We should meet up, in Japan. We would meet up and travel to the Kawasaki factory. Japan is pretty small so it shouldn't be hard to find? We will knock on the door. When someone's opens, we will ask to see the person who designed that 700.00 jack and see if he/she/they can show us how to use the jacks we have.

 

I will endeavour to take a pic next time.... i dont have a strong enough lift point for a chain lift, so i really wanted to replicate what Kawasaki have in their manual.... which to be honest, looks as dodgy AF. And, you HAVE to remove the O2 sensor if you notice in the bottom photo

They seem to indicate using L brackets that pick up at either side of the crankcase.
It has little dowells that engage with holes in the oil pan... have yet to look for them.
I am going to replicate the stands on the jack to fit on my scissor
My rests aren't as tall, but they adjust out so i dont see an issue.
Also, i think the fairings have to be off to use it this way.
the way i described it earlier, there is not a problem.

Those who feel up to it could copy this jack.....not my cup of tea.

 

Missing Link, when you have the lift in place, please take a picture. I never found a spot I was happy with and I do have the same lift. I had a maybe spot, but I didn't like that so I used a ladder and ratchet straps.

My pitbull front stand is worthless if you need to remove the triple clamp. I was about five minutes from earthquake testing the stand, but the quake happened before I lifted the bike.

 

Yeah, leave the rest screwed down all the way, and yeah get some real high density foam.....
The real lifting is actually being done on the exhaust and maybe 10% on the filter manifold web.
The filter rest is really just stabilising

 

ML, I have one of those but wasn't able to figure out a good way to use it for this purpose.
Maybe I'll have to go give it another try.

 

I ended up buying one of these

Gonna be real good for rear end work as well like the shock absorber

Up front one rest sits under the oilfilter manifold, and then i put rear high density foam
about and inch thick and palm sized under the point where the headers alll join, just on the platform.
no need for the other rest. work like a charm and super stable ( obviously on a paddock stand )

 

I'd like to be able to use the garage's ceiling joists to do an overhead setup, but our garage is a bit unusual. It's a 12' ceiling height, which makes working with it less easy, but the structure is commercial-type steel trusses as the building was originally built with a dual-use permit. Pretty strange from this old carpenter/contractor's experience.
So punching holes in the drywall ceiling to pass a wire rope or chain through the lower chord of a truss (as compared to running a large eyebolt) isn't a good idea, as it's a rental.
I like the board under the rear stand thing. I'll have to look into that.
I really like the central stands such as the Abba or Constand but I'm not too keen about spending the money on that just now.
Appreciate the replies.

 

Central constand. Lifts both wheels off the ground with ease.

 

I borrowed a friends Woodcraft triple tree stand a couple of months ago to work on the forks on my CBR1000rr. It worked well and was very sturdy. I had to buy the right size pin for my bike, but it was only $12. It you buy one new from them they will supple the pin that fits your bike.

To me the stand looks way over priced, but it is priced where most of them are. I own a couple of Pit Bull stands and they look twice as strong. Fortunately I can borrow my friends stand again if needed.

 

I've used a couple configurations to relieve the stress of tippy bike when using the "jack under the front of the engine" lift method.

One is a 4' wide board under the rear stand with tiedowns to the ends. Makes it a lot less tippy.

The other is (mostly for piece of mind) hooking the front bars to a small block and tackle attached to a couple of soft nylon loops of rope I run through the clip-on mounts. You could also run it under the triple clamp or steering stem. The block and tackle is kind of clumsy so I've used a 1000# ratchet strap which I think works better but I don't have a pic of that. In either case, no matter how clumsy I get bumping the bike it sways but doesn't fall. Also in either case the jack is the main lifting mechanism, the rest is just for safety. I'm all for cheap solutions using something I already have. You might also notice I use a couple of straps from the handlebars to the grab bars to keep the front from turning while I'm working on it.

 

A friend needed to lube the steering head bearings on a 2000 (or so) GSXR750. He pulled the gas tank and body work, then looped some motorcycle tie downs around the frame and tied them to the garage joists. No idea it that would work on 1000SX, but if money is a concern, it would be a cheap way to go.