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Thanks so much for sharing CKWraps YouTube channel - that guy (Chris) is awesome. After seeing this thread and watching of bunch of Chris's videos, I decided to try vinyl myself.

For anyone interested - It's worth mentioning how different various vinyl wraps are. Vvivid XPO, Hexis, 3M 1080/2080/DI-NOC, Avery Dennison SW900, and others are all very different to work with. When I tested a piece of Vvivid XPO on this part (photo), it quickly became apparent that Vvivid XPO was never going to work as desired, at least not without an advanced skill-set. Next, I tried Avery Dennison SW900 and found it was much, much easier. I made a few butt joints in the carbon fiber using knifeless tape but later, when I ran into trouble, I made simple overlap joints that are nearly invisible in the carbon fiber pattern - you have to look VERY closely to see the joints and they don't detract at all from the look. If I do fake carbon fiber again, I'll just do it the easy, simple, and lazy way and use lots of vinyl pieces (probably 7 pieces of vinyl instead of only four shown here) with simple overlaps. One of the ways you can tell that carbon fiber is fake is the lack of breaks in the carbon fiber pattern - real carbon doesn't flex much in two directions the way vinyl does. REAL carbon fiber in a complex shape has layups of simply bent pieces in a variegated fiber pattern so why go to a lot of trouble to make your fake carbon fiber look less real by bending it into complex shapes? Lesson learned. I can't say enough good things about Avery Dennison SW900 vinyl though - I'm pretty sure other vinyls would have ended up in the trash.

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I figured since I was going to attempt to wrap the Ninja 1000 plastics, I would share my suffering with all of you! :D I have wrapped a few things before - chrome delete window trim on my BMW, and covering the fake woodgrain dash and trim inserts with a fake carbon fiber in the same BMW... lol. But most of those parts were flat and straight and on the beginner level as far as skill needed to pull off. I've spent many hours on YouTube now learning some of the tricks of the trade... but actually applying what I've seen to real world parts will be the real learning experience. For some background, my bike is a 2012 that was Matte Metallic Silver/Black. After a lowside riding the Tail of the Dragon in 2014 (I think), I replaced the MM Silver with Black mid-fairings from the 2013 model to make an all black bike as shown here. This is how she looked prior to my highside incident on the racetrack last month. Only the upper right section of the fairings survived unscathed... everything else, including the tank and windscreen, were smashed, cracked, broken, or heavily scratched. So this is where the journey begins...

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Interesting to see you've polished your wheels. I'm kind of an "old school" guy and still like some bling so I like that look. My last bike was a ZZR1200 and I did the same thing to those wheels. Since that bike was silver with some metallic charcoal body pieces, I sprayed the spoke area with a charcoal metallic paint which matched the body pieces perfectly. I now have a 2021 1000sx and it is pretty much all black. I am getting used to the all black look and I know that's a more current look but I have been debating on pulling the wheels and going through the process once again. After seeing yours I'm thinking it would be a good winter project. I also like the look of the "M4" slippons. I haven't been able to find them for the 2021 yet. Leo Vince has a "black" version that I like but they seem to be out of stock these days. Anyway, good luck with you wrapping project.
 

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Is that wrap you got UV stabilised? Did they give you a time frame for it lasting - When I looked into it last the quality of the wrap was matched with a "Lifespan" of the wrap like 2yrs or 5 yrs or 10 years.
While the “lifespan” of vinyl has to do with fading under UV exposure, all vinyls are much softer than paint and easily scratched. You can often heal fine scratched to a degree with heat, even just left in the sun, but I can’t imagine a glossy vinyl remaining in good condition for more than a year or two of careful use. I wouldn’t want to wrap an entire auto exterior - or motorcycle - expecting it to look new for very long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
While the “lifespan” of vinyl has to do with fading under UV exposure, all vinyls are much softer than paint and easily scratched. You can often heal fine scratched to a degree with heat, even just left in the sun, but I can’t imagine a glossy vinyl remaining in good condition for more than a year or two of careful use. I wouldn’t want to wrap an entire auto exterior - or motorcycle - expecting it to look new for very long.
I guess we'll see. I can see problems with daily driver vehicles, but I don't ride my bike everyday. I also had people tell me my Plasti-dipped swingarm was going to be crap in a short period of time. It's been 8 years and it looks like the day I sprayed it on - well, it did until my M4 slip-on was smashed against it! Good thing Plasti-dip is easy to repair. The vinyl is a lot of work, but its been fun so far. I've made mistakes and learned some tricks. I also have enough crash parts to make a second set of "winter" fairings - which I am going to wrap also because they are all different factory colors.
 

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I'm sure the vinyl might not be as durable as the paint Ford uses on the new f150, but compared to what Kawasaki uses, I'll bet on the vinyl. Especially if you factor in repairing small damage. Our paint is so thin, it's very difficult to repair without prepainting the piece. I can't do that in my garage.

Look at the delivery or service vehicles that have high quality wraps. They look pretty good. Even in Utah and our salt covered roads.


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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
So I've worked on the fairing wrap some more over the past week. Started on the lowers since they are the next step up in the difficulty level. The lower fairings will be Green with a Matte Black finish on the interior sections.

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I have to say that I've gotten much faster as I have learned to work the vinyl. This metallic green by Hexis is much easier to work with than the metallic black I have made by 3M. I got this done in one piece and cut the edges with knifeless tape.

I decided to split the interior area into 3 pieces since the angles are sharp at the front and it has a natural separation in the stator opening. I could not get the knifeless tape to turn at such a sharp radius, so I left the "point" to be cut by hand later.

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Now while I cursed the metallic black vinyl from 3M, their matte black was very easy to stretch and conform and I was surprised by how easily it molded to the fairing shapes. I made the seam from the front of the circle to the rear of the circle right where the bolt hole goes. So only a very small seam exists and it pretty much disappears.

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
One of the issues I had was getting the vinyl to stretch into and stay in this sharp corner. I think some wrappers use adhesive promoter or something to keep it from lifting. As you can see in the first picture, I ended up cutting the material to get it to sit down and it gapped when I post heated it to set the adhesive. I just added a small piece and then trimmed the point by hand. I used some precision masking tape to guide the start of the shape But like the knifeless tape, it would not conform to such a tight radius. It did provide me a guide though and it came out good enough for me.

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
The back half was a bit more challenging than I had imagined. And on both the lower fairing pieces I had to start over on the matte black pieces at least once. You need to understand in what ways the material will stretch and shrink in order conform to the part you are wrapping. Sometimes you have to have a plan to start from a certain spot and work out from there. Because I found myself about 80% done with a section on more than one occasion, before coming to the realization that I can't make the vinyl cover the remaining 20% without bunching, wrinkling, or tearing. (And once I actually burned through it by adding too much heat!). You just have to pull off the offending piece and try again!

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Discussion Starter · #52 · (Edited)
The opposite side was much the same and features the deepest recess of all the bolt holes. I pushed it down with a 17mm socket! I cut too much material out at the bottom as well... I thought the grommet went edge-to-edge for some reason?!?!?! I added a circular piece at the bottom later and it came out fine - I'm sure I'm the only one who would even notice!

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Both pieces came out really well despite the challenges of the changing angles and the "points" that I had to trim by hand. Although this is my first time wrapping, I have made all my previous fairings the same with matte black in the interior spaces... I just used Plastidip instead. Of the two, Plastidip was much, much, much faster. But the wrap looks 100% better.

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Just a comparison of the the factory part and my completed piece. You can really see the difference in the metallic in this picture. The wrap has much less depth in the finish. FYI, I never owned a green version, but I got this part from Ebay to use with my "Winter Fairings".

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
So... you are probably asking yourself what the hell is he talking about when he mentions "winter fairings"... :unsure: Well this is part of the winter collection - the heat deflector has been removed so all that heat from the engine will hit me in the legs and wash up my torso... in theory. I have yet to put the set together because it requires some additional support due to removing some of the structural rigidity and mounting points. It was also a styling experiment because this bike looks really fat when viewed from the rear - and not in the good way. The heat deflectors really add some width to the bike. I have some photos somewhere with the cutaway fairings mounted and the bike is very slim and sexy... 🤣🤣🤣

Anyway, I know the upper fairings are going to be a challenge to wrap, so I'm using this as a test platform. It currently has black Plastidip with a metallic sparkle dip color sprayed over the top. This dip is 8 years old and still looks like the day I sprayed it on... my transition line was flawless as well... ;)

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
In fact, the finish underneath is perfectly protected and looks brand new! So lets see if I can wrap the top portion in one piece and get a decent finish... after the headlight cowling, my confidence is low... note that the 3M 2080 Gloss Metallic Black comes with a protective film over the top. So in the bottom picture, the texture of the finish is the overwrap.

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
As predicted, this did not turn out well. This particular film by 3M wants to be pulled tight and glassed on. It does not like to be "worked" on complex shapes. The finish is full of glue lines and imperfections.

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Yeah, its ugly... I worked from the top and tried to come down to the deep crease in the fairing that runs the length of it. The problem is that once you get to the crease, you can only push the vinyl. It needs to be lifted and stretched to smooth it out and there is no way to do that going into a crevice. So I'll have to start at the crevice and work my way out to avoid this terrible finish. Even then, it may just be better to go at it in multiple pieces.

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