Oil questions tend to be Very subjective. My N1K will be switched to full synthetic at around 4 to 5K. I work in parts at a large dealership, Yamaha, Honda, Polaris & Ducati & that's the same advice I use to customers with their machines. The protection additives in syn oils are such to allow up to 5k between changes without engine issues. These are my beliefs & I'm sure there will be different opinions & brand recomendations. Unless you're having any issues which need warrnty attention, I do my own first service. Service manuals are your friends & Kawasaki manual is relatively inexpensive.
What are you using for engine oil??
Had my first service done yesterday (600mi). I was making small talk with the mechanic at the counter after it was done and asked him about oil. He said I should only use Kawasaki 4 stroke oil (which they sell of course) and NOT to use synthetic because synthetic does not have the minerals that the parts need (??).
The owners manual says you can use Kawasaki oil OR any motorcycle oil that meets the same API & JASO specs including synthetic (full or part). I'm thinking Castrol Actevo 4T will work fine.
I think the first service was a bit of a ripoff at my dealer. They charge 1.5 hrs labor but I know it only took them half an hour (I was watching the bike to see when they moved it).
What do you guys think?
The owners manual says you can use Kawasaki oil OR any motorcycle oil that meets the same API & JASO specs including synthetic (full or part). I'm thinking Castrol Actevo 4T will work fine.
I think the first service was a bit of a ripoff at my dealer. They charge 1.5 hrs labor but I know it only took them half an hour (I was watching the bike to see when they moved it).
What do you guys think?
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Oil questions tend to be Very subjective. My N1K will be switched to full synthetic at around 4 to 5K. I work in parts at a large dealership, Yamaha, Honda, Polaris & Ducati & that's the same advice I use to customers with their machines. The protection additives in syn oils are such to allow up to 5k between changes without engine issues. These are my beliefs & I'm sure there will be different opinions & brand recomendations. Unless you're having any issues which need warrnty attention, I do my own first service. Service manuals are your friends & Kawasaki manual is relatively inexpensive.
+1
Personally, I like Shell Rotella T6 w/ purolater oil filters but everyone has there own favorites.
I'm with Sailor Jack. I've been using Rotella T6 for years on all my motorcycles, dirt and street alike. I've noticed the engines run slightly smoother on it and for synthetic oil, it is reasonably priced. Walmart usually has pretty good deals on them.
As for filters, i'm partial to K&N mostly because of the hex head at the top of the filter. It makes it super simple to remove the filter.
As for filters, i'm partial to K&N mostly because of the hex head at the top of the filter. It makes it super simple to remove the filter.
Thanks for the input guys.
Rotella T6 does not seem to be motorcycle oil - does that matter? If it meets the same specs as what the Kawasaki manual calls for is that good enough?
Rotella T6 does not seem to be motorcycle oil - does that matter? If it meets the same specs as what the Kawasaki manual calls for is that good enough?
I just did a quick look at reviews on Amazon for the Rotella T6...it seems that it works fine for motorcycles. I always thought the "motorcycle oil" thing was a scam.
Oh dear...another oil thread on the interwebs..lol
A lot of people use Rotella in their bikes. As long as you change your oil frequently enough it works ok.
I'm partial to Amsoil. Get your "dealers certificate" and you'll get a good price on a quality synth oil.
I tell everyone that during breakin use the cheapest oil you can find. Change it at about 200 miles, again at about 800 mile and again at about 1500 miles with a filter change on the 200 and 1500 mile change. On the last oil change put in your preferred high quality oil.
Motorcycle specific oil IS NOT snake oil. Automotive oils have modifiers that our wet clutches do not like. The oils are slippery and make clutches slip.
A lot of people use Rotella in their bikes. As long as you change your oil frequently enough it works ok.
I'm partial to Amsoil. Get your "dealers certificate" and you'll get a good price on a quality synth oil.
I tell everyone that during breakin use the cheapest oil you can find. Change it at about 200 miles, again at about 800 mile and again at about 1500 miles with a filter change on the 200 and 1500 mile change. On the last oil change put in your preferred high quality oil.
Motorcycle specific oil IS NOT snake oil. Automotive oils have modifiers that our wet clutches do not like. The oils are slippery and make clutches slip.
I believe any oil that has JASO(Japanese Automotive Standards Organization) stamped on it & doesn't say "Energy Conserving or such" will work. Additive packages in motorcycle specific oils help reduce clutch slippage, not so with car oils. Many riders use Mobil 1, full syn in their bikes but I recommend the Mobil 1 made for motorcycles which is readily available.
I've never had a clutch slip using "auto oil"..I know, bad idea, but in reality , it works just fine.
I like the way Mikey100 worded "helps reduce clutch slippage"...It wont suddenly cause a good clutch to slip.
I've used it on my yz 250 dirt bike for 20 years. A bad clutch is a bad clutch, and oil really does not change it.
Its all expensive now, You can get Valvoilne 4 stroke oil at auto zone for 4.99 a quart. So, you'll spend 19.96 instead of the 17.84 of rotella??? I dont care for the notchiness I get with Rotella in regards to shifting.
If some company a "special" oil that was slicker than others, they would not have to worry about money again.
I like the way Mikey100 worded "helps reduce clutch slippage"...It wont suddenly cause a good clutch to slip.
I've used it on my yz 250 dirt bike for 20 years. A bad clutch is a bad clutch, and oil really does not change it.
Its all expensive now, You can get Valvoilne 4 stroke oil at auto zone for 4.99 a quart. So, you'll spend 19.96 instead of the 17.84 of rotella??? I dont care for the notchiness I get with Rotella in regards to shifting.
If some company a "special" oil that was slicker than others, they would not have to worry about money again.
Valvoline
Rcannon409
Are you now using Valvoline 40 weight auto oil in your Mcycle
Rcannon409
Are you now using Valvoline 40 weight auto oil in your Mcycle
This has also been my experience. In my early years of motorcycling I didn't know better and figured "energy conserving Mobil 1 must be good, right?" and lo and behold, at 4000 miles my VFR clutch was slipping. Research and an oil change to non-energy conserving Mobil 1 and all was good.I believe any oil that has JASO(Japanese Automotive Standards Organization) stamped on it & doesn't say "Energy Conserving or such" will work. Additive packages in motorcycle specific oils help reduce clutch slippage, not so with car oils. Many riders use Mobil 1, full syn in their bikes but I recommend the Mobil 1 made for motorcycles which is readily available.
I was just discussing this with a friend and his experiment (on an old Yamaha) with Quaker State oil was the same.
I don't think it matters a whole lot which brand and type of oil you use, as long as you get the right viscosity, change it before it loses the wear additives, and your clutch tolerates it.
For my part, the $25 5qt jugs of Mobile 1 meet my needs.
I'm a Mobil1 fan, as well. I have used it for over 100,000 miles in previous bikes. I also use the M1-110 filter. It's longer than the OEM filter, but fits fine with the Ninja 1000 fairing. I know there is a question of whether the longer filter is a good choice for this bike, but I figure since the 110 is also used in Japanese automobiles that's a good recommendation for filtering capacity.
Old thread, but thought I would ask,,.
1) Does anyone know if the Kawi OEM filter has a "hex head on the top of the filter" or does it require a filter wrench,,.
2) Sounds like the dealer was use OEM Kawi oil,,. Is there a better choice?
1) Does anyone know if the Kawi OEM filter has a "hex head on the top of the filter" or does it require a filter wrench,,.
2) Sounds like the dealer was use OEM Kawi oil,,. Is there a better choice?
I'm with Sailor Jack. I've been using Rotella T6 for years on all my motorcycles, dirt and street alike. I've noticed the engines run slightly smoother on it and for synthetic oil, it is reasonably priced. Walmart usually has pretty good deals on them.
As for filters, i'm partial to K&N mostly because of the hex head at the top of the filter. It makes it super simple to remove the filter.
1) No it doesn't.Old thread, but thought I would ask,,.
1) Does anyone know if the Kawi OEM filter has a "hex head on the top of the filter" or does it require a filter wrench,,.
2) Sounds like the dealer was use OEM Kawi oil,,. Is there a better choice?
K&N's do have a "Hex" Head attached on the top of the filter to facilitate removal, but I don't know of any other brand that does this as well.
The OEM Filter has a smooth top with the typical "grip contours" along the upper side edge of the filter.
2) As mentioned earlier in the thread, a very subjective subject. I can only say that I've used Castrol's ACT>EVO Motorcycle Oil for years on all my bikes without any issues.
Thanks FeralRdr
I like the idea of the nut on the filter for ease of removal and one could use a torque setting wrench to tighten it and the plug?
I will see whats available locally for oil but will look for made for motorcycle brands and is
JASO(Japanese Automotive Standards Organization) stamped on it & doesn't say "Energy Conserving or such" will work.
I like the idea of the nut on the filter for ease of removal and one could use a torque setting wrench to tighten it and the plug?
I will see whats available locally for oil but will look for made for motorcycle brands and is
JASO(Japanese Automotive Standards Organization) stamped on it & doesn't say "Energy Conserving or such" will work.
I have tried Mobil1 10W-30 in my yz250 when I was racing MX and noticed clutch slip the first heat race. Changed it out for Rotella-T white bottle after the heat and no more slipping. Not done that since in my motorcycles.
I used to use Mobil1 20W-50 red cap non-energy conserving for many years in my R6 (22,500mi), FZ-1 (18,000mi) and ST1100 (40,000mi). I switched to Rotella T6 when the red cap became inconsistent to find at Walmart. I've only used the T6 in the N1K (7,800mi). I've used the Mobil1 M1-110 filters on every street bike I've had that they fit.
I used to use Mobil1 20W-50 red cap non-energy conserving for many years in my R6 (22,500mi), FZ-1 (18,000mi) and ST1100 (40,000mi). I switched to Rotella T6 when the red cap became inconsistent to find at Walmart. I've only used the T6 in the N1K (7,800mi). I've used the Mobil1 M1-110 filters on every street bike I've had that they fit.
Has any one used Motul Oil, is there any advantage in going with the synthetic or synthetic blend,,.
Thoughts would be appreciated,,?
I cant seem to locate in this area some of the better brands mentioned,,.
in non synthetic I find the following with JASO designation in 10w 40
1) Lucas hi performance seems to be common
2) Castrol
3) Motul 300V Full Synthetic Motor Oil
4) Motul 5100 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil 10W40 5) Motul 3000 Paraffin-Based Motor Oil 10W40
Premium high performance engine oil for all 4–stroke motorcycles with or without a wet clutch and an integrated gearbox. Specially designed to handle the extreme pressures and high temperatures of today's sportbikes, the most powerful cruisers and MX bikes.
Thoughts would be appreciated,,?
I cant seem to locate in this area some of the better brands mentioned,,.
in non synthetic I find the following with JASO designation in 10w 40
1) Lucas hi performance seems to be common
2) Castrol
3) Motul 300V Full Synthetic Motor Oil
4) Motul 5100 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil 10W40 5) Motul 3000 Paraffin-Based Motor Oil 10W40
Premium high performance engine oil for all 4–stroke motorcycles with or without a wet clutch and an integrated gearbox. Specially designed to handle the extreme pressures and high temperatures of today's sportbikes, the most powerful cruisers and MX bikes.
- Petroleum blend
- Perfect blend of base oil and additives
- Excellent for street and offroad
- Standards: API SJ, JASO-MA
Lag, I think we probably worry too much about oil brand.
I think its like helmets. If some company really had an advantage, the magazines would be full of ads proving this advantage, and we would for sure know about it.
I believe you'll be ok with any brand thats certified for motorcycle use.
I think its like helmets. If some company really had an advantage, the magazines would be full of ads proving this advantage, and we would for sure know about it.
I believe you'll be ok with any brand thats certified for motorcycle use.
Ive heard that it is important not to switch all over the place as different additives from different blends or products can interact poorly with one another,. So far the dealer has done two Oil changes with the Kawi Oil at 1000MI and 2000mi as part of the original purchase,,,,,,,,,,.
Thought I would take over now that I'm at 5000 mi and would like to pick a good product and stick with it,,. Dont know if the synthetic option is worth the extra money for me?
Thought I would take over now that I'm at 5000 mi and would like to pick a good product and stick with it,,. Dont know if the synthetic option is worth the extra money for me?
Lag, this is what makes it so tough to make an easy decision...
If I said, "You want to switch brands as often as you can. The different additives can compliment each other..."
That sounds reasonable, too. Also, if there were real compatibility issues, we would have heard about it.
If I said, "You want to switch brands as often as you can. The different additives can compliment each other..."
That sounds reasonable, too. Also, if there were real compatibility issues, we would have heard about it.
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
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