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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone transported their N1K on a truck or trailer?

What are the tie down points? Particularly towards the rear of the bike.

TIA
 

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Has anyone transported their N1K on a truck or trailer?

What are the tie down points? Particularly towards the rear of the bike.

TIA
i have put mine tied down in the back of a penske or uhaul multiple times.. I used the subframe and the rims to secure the bottom half and the handlebars and passenger pegs to secure the top.

Never compress the bike down with straps and do not wrap anything through the engine, around the coils, front forks or over the brakes.

Good luck.
 

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I use a Cycle Cinch for the front (instead of regular canyon dancers). For the rear, I use "loops" around the rear grab handles with tie downs. I have a single rail Kendon trailer. Use it for my Kawi and Harley as needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i have put mine tied down in the back of a penske or uhaul multiple times.. I used the subframe and the rims to secure the bottom half and the handlebars and passenger pegs to secure the top.

Never compress the bike down with straps and do not wrap anything through the engine, around the coils, front forks or over the brakes.

Good luck.
Do you mean the swing arm and the rims? The subframe isn't really part of the bottom of the bike.

Your response is greatly appreciated all the same. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I use a Cycle Cinch for the front (instead of regular canyon dancers). For the rear, I use "loops" around the rear grab handles with tie downs. I have a single rail Kendon trailer. Use it for my Kawi and Harley as needed.
I was wondering about the rear grab handles. They look sturdy, but just two bolts hold them to the bike. I guess they are strong enough bolts for this job.
 

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Never compress the bike down with straps and do not wrap anything through the engine, around the coils, front forks or over the brakes.

Good luck.
Just curious, what is wrong with compressing the front forks?? I brought my N1k home from the dealer with just two straps to the bars. Been hauling my dirt bikes for years with just the same two straps from the bars. Just tighten a little till the forks compress. Never had a problem... except for the a holes that stole my KTM out of the truck.:mad:
 

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Tightening down the forks while hauling causes premature strain on the fork springs, and fork seals due to the constant high pressure placed upon them, being almost fully compressed. The longer the spring is compressed, the sooner it will lose it's tension and no longer function as intended.
I have a wheel lock in the back of my truck, when hauling, I tie-down the front wheel in this lock, and a tie-down through, and around the rear wheel, locks it in place.
Both wheels are locked in the bed, and the bike is free to suspend up and down with the bumps as needed.
 

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I don't fully compress them- it is not necessary-Just a few inches. I have been hauling my dirt bikes to NH for almost 10 yrs, 2-5 hours each way and never had a problem.
 

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I was wondering about the rear grab handles. They look sturdy, but just two bolts hold them to the bike. I guess they are strong enough bolts for this job.
Rear Grabs work good too.. Just careful wrapping rope around them, they scuff and damage easily.
 

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" I have been hauling my dirt bikes to NH for almost 10 yrs, 2-5 hours each way and never had a problem."

People have been doing it for well over 50 years, does not mean it's not damaging springs. Law of physics, you compress a spring enough times, long enough, it will lose it's tension. Simple...
Just be cause you don't notice or feel a problem does not mean there isn't one developing.
People have been driving for years without using turn signals, doesn't seem to be a problem there either, does there?

To the average person, that doesn't fine tune their suspension, it's fine, don't worry about it. You will never notice a problem.

If you keep your bike for decades, like me, and are anal about your bikes handling abilities, then yea, you need to stop compressing the springs for long periods of time.

As an example, Hardley guys ride their bikes for years thinking they are the best bike in the world, when in reality they are overweight, underpowered, underbraked POS manufactured for maximum profit.
They are oblivious to their bikes shortcomings because it's the best, of course.
Your suspension is like that. It's the best in the world, so you don't need to worry about it at all, just ride it. To worry about simple things like spring compression is futile, just ride it ;-p
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Tightening down the forks while hauling causes premature strain on the fork springs, and fork seals due to the constant high pressure placed upon them, being almost fully compressed. The longer the spring is compressed, the sooner it will lose it's tension and no longer function as intended.
I have a wheel lock in the back of my truck, when hauling, I tie-down the front wheel in this lock, and a tie-down through, and around the rear wheel, locks it in place.
Both wheels are locked in the bed, and the bike is free to suspend up and down with the bumps as needed.
When you say "wheel lock," do you mean the front wheel chocks like this?
TRACKSIDE - Roll On Wheel Chock - Tie-downs - Transport & Storage - Accessories - Cycle Gear

...or is it something similar that holds the bike upright when the wheel is in it? :confused:

Do you use tie down straps anywhere other than the wheels?

Your input is much appreciated.
 

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I've never had a problem using tie downs on any of my bikes. Race, dirt, street or mini as long as you don't do it for extended periods of time like overnight. And I've never secured the rear. Two on the front is all you need.
 

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A few comments / personal opinions:

- springs "wear out" more from cycle fatigue than constant compression. It can be argued that trailering with compressed springs is easier on the bike than actually riding it.

- there is no oil pressure if the forks aren't moving so there is no extra pressure on the seals while compressed on a trailer.

- I don't like using the rear passenger grab rails as they are rubber mounted and allow for too much movement.

- I use Moose strap rings mounted to the lower triple tree with longer than stock bolts and custom eye bolts. Nothing touches the bike and allows for quick setup.

STRAP RINGS | Product | Moose Racing

- for the rear, all you really need to do is keep the rear from bouncing up or down so I strap / hook the rear axle sliders.

http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/rg-racing-rear-axle-sliders-kawasaki-ninja-1000-z1000

I've trailed from Montreal to Colorado,Georgia and West Virginia more than a few times and never had an issue.
 

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That's what I drive. (no lift) I just use two ramps, one for me and one for the bike and just two straps... no problem. I have even put a VMax (heavy) in the back with the same two straps... no problem. I guess I am not a professional rider because I am not worried about my front forks.;)
 

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Bringing home the N1K after the purchase, towed 100 miles.


Used a Canyon Dancer. Being a belt & suspenders guy I did secure the rear, using double-end straps to connect to the Ninja. And I tie down the front wheel. I've used the trailer to haul many bikes over the years, mostly European models that I carry to the DFW area for servicing I can't do. Haven't lost one yet.
 

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I have my trailer set up with pit pull trailer restraint systems and sure they are pricey but they are extremely convenient. I'll never mess with straps again.
 

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you need to get some nylon straps that will fit in the slots on rear foot peg that is the tie down point
I think that's more of a tie down point when strapping something to the seat, not so much for trailering. That's not to say I wouldn't use the passenger peg hangers with straps for trailering, just not that exact location.
 

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