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My sister-in-law ran one of the big, home improvement stores. She would pay me to stay in the store, after hours, and take care of things flying around. I used my old Beeman r7, or FWB 700 if I needed to make a difficult shot . They were all accurate, but not powerful enough to damage the roof.

I would load up a shopping cart with my supplies.

It was a lot of fun, but it lost much of its appeal after this kid was executed. Thats all he was doing. They paid him travel time, his hotel room, meals , etc to do the same job. All he had, in his room, was a scary looking air rifle. He had a few drinks, but was in his room.


My shopping cart looked like I was ready to overthrow the govt. In reality, none of them had enough power to leave much more than a bruise.
 

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I remember when the Marauder was released. That is a hell of an air rifle. My favorite is my TX200HC. All the pieces inside of it are custom made by Jim Maccari. We set up a 15 yard range in my basement. If you do your part, you can light stick matches with it.

The good, German airguns were fun. After the war ended, you had all these companies who made firearms just sitting there, unable to produce new firearms. They started making these air rifles that were expensive, and very high quality.

We had a local store that dealt with damaged freight from UPS, and the post office. My best score there was a .20 Caliber Beeman r1. They had it priced at 75.00 and I had a 50% off coupon. I bought pretty much every air rifle that went through the place and re-sold them.

It's too bad that people dont get a chance to try them. After you buy your equipment, the cost of ammo and supplies is nothing.

Volfy, did you buy air pistols, too? I shot several 10meter, Olympic style air pistol matches as well as .22 free pistol event. I wasnt very good, but it was a great experience. I had a cornea transplant in my right eye, and this helped the eye get better.
 

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ha ha ... the Tank Protector thread meandered into PCP vs Springer air-rifles. ;)

All I can say is that I used my Marauder PCP to pop crows in the backyard because they kept messing with my crops. Recoil is negligibly light (like you said) and accuracy is deadly good. I used to pick up crows and examine the entry and exit wounds to see which pellets are more effective. The only issue is that the o-rings inside the rifle do not last long and I had to do the painstaking process of overhauling the rifle to replace o-rings. It's very time-consuming. So, I gave up.

Of course, my face is on the Crow's Social Media Red Alert Wanted List. They all recognize me and my backyard is now relatively quiet.
M-rod is legendary, with a huge aftermarket support.

RC, I've had a few air pistols. First was an R1. Fitted with a scope, it was a fun indoor rig for those long Buffalo winters.

arthury is right... I love air rifles as much as my powder burners, but we really should quit hijacking this thread. :) Sorry ST.
 
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We did hijack this, didnt we. It's hard not to when you find two people who are so different, but you stumble into this common area of interest. Did you have the p1 pistol? R1 was the rifle.

The only thi g you need to do with paint protection film is to have clean hands when you use it. The stocky side will show fingerprints if you touch it. Clean hands help avoid this.

Otherwise, it's one if the best products I've ever used. It doesnt like to trap bubbles, and it is simple to apply. I think it lasts, forever.
 

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My bad. It was the P1. Memories start to fade after almost 35yrs. Still remember the distinctive way it cocked the spring though.

If the OP is only interested in paint protection, then the clear film for the sides would be a better bet. Something like the Techspec would be overkill. I buy it because that texture is bar none the best for knee gripping. I resisted getting a set for my first VFR1200F because I just didn't care for that big old blotch of black rubber on the beautifully sculpted red bodywork. Plus they are kinda expensive for what they are. When I got my 2nd VFR1200F, I relented and got a set... and instantly regretted not getting them sooner.

With my N1k being all black, the bandaid look isn't as obvious.

For the center pad, though, I'm not sure I would want just a thin film for tank protection. On a bike like the N1k, especially with the Apex clip-on setup I have, I'm hugging the tank pretty good thru the twisties braking into the corners and dragging my jacket from side to side. I feel better with a thicker tank pad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
My bad. It was the P1. Memories start to fade after almost 35yrs. Still remember the distinctive way it cocked the spring though.

If the OP is only interested in paint protection, then the clear film for the sides would be a better bet. Something like the Techspec would be overkill. I buy it because that texture is bar none the best for knee gripping. I resisted getting a set for my first VFR1200F because I just didn't care for that big old blotch of black rubber on the beautifully sculpted red bodywork. Plus they are kinda expensive for what they are. When I got my 2nd VFR1200F, I relented and got a set... and instantly regretted not getting them sooner.

With my N1k being all black, the bandaid look isn't as obvious.

For the center pad, though, I'm not sure I would want just a thin film for tank protection. On a bike like the N1k, especially with the Apex clip-on setup I have, I'm hugging the tank pretty good thru the twisties braking into the corners and dragging my jacket from side to side. I feel better with a thicker tank pad.
I would say that I've got a couple of goals.
One is that I want to protect the center portion of the tank from my jacket.
The other is that when I wear my textile riding pants, I've noticed that sliding forward on the seat is an issue (particularly under braking, and especially if the road is a bit rough); which is why I was looking at some sort of grippy material for the sides of the tank, that insert panel between the tank and the frame, and/or the frame. For the sliding issue, I know that there are multiple angles I can attack from, and I may end up doing multiple things (I'm running a Sargent seat right now, and the seat cover isn't particularly grippy).

The techspec may be overkill; looking at pictures online I see that it seems to have a section that goes on the tank itself, and a section that goes below the tank, and it looks like pretty thick material.

I'm liking the idea of putting the paint protector film in multiple places, so that if I put on a center tank pad or those tank grips and don't like them, I'm not so worried about being able to remove them.
 

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The tech spec would be good if you were worried about denting the tank, I suppose, or something like that, but i use my magnetic tank bag over paint film. The grip part of the tech spec is good, too, like Volfy said.

Some of the film I have is 8 years old. It doesnt wear through, and I havent been able to scratch it. If you put it on, that's all the protection you need. Sometimes I'll look at the bike and think, "I need to put some there."..only to realize I already have some in place.

The tech spec (snake skin) is probably 1/8" thick, if not a little more thick than that. I think they have other, thinner stuff, too.

I think paint protection film will stop pellets from an air rifle. Whis with me?

Seriously, order double what you think you need. I ended up doing the front of the car. Not so much to protect paint. Bug removal.
31779

If I get another new car, or bike, I believe step 1 (after the dyno break in) would be to have a real professional apply paint film. It's not like you need a pro to apply it. My work is maybe 2nd or 3rd grade scissor level work, and it's fine, but a real pro job would be seriously cool.

My favorite is the headlight film. This is Lamin-x. Illegal as hell, but it looks cool. This stiff is insane. When it goes on, it looks terrible. Over the next 1-2 months, and a few hot days, it fixes itself.
 
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