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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone tell me where to locate the switched hot wire in the vicinity of the front end? I'd like to connect a BurnsMoto USB power port and mount it close to the handlebars.

Thanks!
 

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What year bike as my 2012 had it flopping inside the front, left side of the fairing. You coudl see it while it was on the showroom floor.
 

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On my '14, I didn't find that pigtail until I had the left side fairing removed. It was well hidden.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry for forgetting to include the year. It's a '14. If fairing removal is required, I'll wait until I get headlights and do it all at once.

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It's right under the R/R. If it exited the loom a couple inches further forward, fairing removal might not be necessary.
It really only takes abut 10 minutes to get the fairing off. You'll need 4,5 and 6mm hex wrenches, a flat screwdriver to get the quick clips on the bottom of the fairing off and a small blunt punch for the 3 push pins on the inner fairing.
In the service manual, it says you only have to remove 1 screw holding the dash panel on. I wish I had removed it all together, as I bent one of the tabs on the fairing itself when putting the dash cover back in place.
I went and bought a 12", 2-pin trailer connector at the local auto parts store Hopkins 2-Pole Flat Wiring Extension - 12" Long Hopkins Wiring HM47965, snipped the un-needed end off (the end with the male being +) and used red bullets, male and female, so they would plug into the factory terminals. The SAE pins are too big. I then ran it up through the bracket that the immobilizer would sit in if the US bikes had them and zipped tied it in place. This way I can plug my USB adapter into it so I can charge my cell phone that's on the RAM mount in the stem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It's right under the R/R. If it exited the loom a couple inches further forward, fairing removal might not be necessary.
It really only takes abut 10 minutes to get the fairing off. You'll need 4,5 and 6mm hex wrenches, a flat screwdriver to get the quick clips on the bottom of the fairing off and a small blunt punch for the 3 push pins on the inner fairing.
In the service manual, it says you only have to remove 1 screw holding the dash panel on. I wish I had removed it all together, as I bent one of the tabs on the fairing itself when putting the dash cover back in place.
I went and bought a 12", 2-pin trailer connector at the local auto parts store Hopkins 2-Pole Flat Wiring Extension - 12" Long Hopkins Wiring HM47965, snipped the un-needed end off (the end with the male being +) and used red bullets, male and female, so they would plug into the factory terminals. The SAE pins are too big. I then ran it up through the bracket that the immobilizer would sit in if the US bikes had them and zipped tied it in place. This way I can plug my USB adapter into it so I can charge my cell phone that's on the RAM mount in the stem.
Thank you Andy! I'll take my time removing the fairing and do the headlights and USB power port at the same time.
 
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