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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I dont know if this issue is part of the dry clutch issue or not, when i am stopped and take off if i dont let the clutch out fast it squeals like its slipping, but just going throught the gears once im rolling it shifts perfect up and down the gears, ive never had another bike that would do this, its almost like the clutch isnt strong enough if you get a little aggressive with the revs on take off, unless something could be out of adjustment. I thought the dry clutch issue affected gear changing, not take offs.
 

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I wonder if an online petition for a TSB/warranty would work. They do not make it easy, I'll tell you that.

@Mark59m If it's under warranty, you are gonna have to take it to a dealer, hope the dealer is cooperative so they invest time in duplicating problem and you will go from there. They will get in touch with Kawasaki.
 

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The dry clutch issue is most evident upon takeoff in first gear, and not a problem once you get rolling. Mine has a little bit of shudder if you let the clutch out slowly when taking off.

Using a really good quality synthetic oil helps a little but the proper countermeasure is to drill holes in the clutch basket. Some have gone as far as to also grind a flat on the clutch pushrod to improve oiling.

I have chosen to live with mine unless it gets worse as it is not really hurting anything. Yours sounds like it may be a bit more severe. You could try soaking your friction plates in oil to see if that helps. Removing the plates is pretty simple.
 

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I dont know if this issue is part of the dry clutch issue or not, when i am stopped and take off if i dont let the clutch out fast it squeals like its slipping, but just going throught the gears once im rolling it shifts perfect up and down the gears, ive never had another bike that would do this, its almost like the clutch isnt strong enough if you get a little aggressive with the revs on take off, unless something could be out of adjustment. I thought the dry clutch issue affected gear changing, not take offs.[/QUOTE

Hi Mark,

I noticed this for the first time this week a few days after I changed from Triple T (dino) to T6 full synthetic. I have 5400mi and never felt/heard this before. I switched back to the triple T and need some seat time to see if its gone. Not saying the oil is the problem but never had it before. The squeal is more pronounced leaving on an uphill grade under load.
Steve
 

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Mark, clutch plates are bizarre. Heres a cool video showing how they work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcYsV063lk8

Even though they need to end up grabbing each other, eventually, before and after the "sticking" occurs, a significant amount of slip occurs.

As this slip happens, they need a coat of oil on them. Without the oil coating, you get noise, heat and wear, and thats whats happening here.

If you choose to do nothing that wont last long. I cant define "long' but that might be as soon as 500 miles, or as many as 15,000, but letting this clutch pack run dry, will cause significant wear. They will end up looking like this.

http://www.esportbike.com/photo/data/500/2566good_plate_-_bad_plate_1.jpg

Its an easy assembly to work with, and its not difficult to drill those holes.

I believe anyone can handle it in a half day. If you leave the bike on the kickstand, you dont even need to drain the oil. If you are careful , you wont even need a new gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well that sucks, guess ill order a gasket to have on hand before i tear it down just in case. Did any body ever figure out if the new slipper clutch for the 2016 will work in a 3rd gen and would they be any advantages to installing one or are they prone to.
 

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If you decide to do a swap, let me know. You dont need an entire set of plates.

Replace whats damaged, obviously, and I'll help you from there.

Honest, I use the slipper feature so infrequently, I should have probably left it stock, after drilling it was great.
 

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I'm good with the drilling, but does anyone have any suggestions for milling the .010" flat? I'm thinking about taking it to a machine shop for greater precision.
 

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I don't know about that. Judging by how dry the plates were, I would think the clutch has to wear out faster.
I am sure it will wear a bit faster but mine is hardly noticeable and at 18,000 miles the clutch is still working fine other than the slight shudder I get occasionally when releasing the clutch in first gear. I will probably drill the clutch basket if and when I need to replace the friction plates.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Looks like you could take one of those metal polishing pads thats 80 grit on a 4 1/2" angle grinder and put the flat on the shaft they put a pretty good finish on steel, lowes sales them, i dont think a 1000th or 2 isnt going to matter that much, Some of the pictures i seen looks like they used a regular grinding rock from the rough finish it was showing
 
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