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Discussion Starter #1
I've noticed the clutch on my '14 is sticky when the engine is not up to full temp yet. When you pull in the clutch, it feels as if the bike is still in gear for a bit before the rpm drops back to idle? Once the bike is fully warmed it, it goes away. Is this normal? I have about 1300mi now.
 

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i have the same problem, once i switched back to synthetic it got better, but i know it's still there. this is a common problem, and the thread above can help fix the problem. i still need to do this mod, but didn't want to give up riding time this summer, this winter it will be done.
 

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My 2k12 hasn't had the issue but I got mine at about 5000 miles. I don't know if it had synthetic when I got it, but it does since I changed the oil.

If you are looking at doing the mod in the thread above you might want to look into using a Versys Slipper/Assist clutch. I don't have that thread handy but that is a mod I think I'm going to do next.

~Mark
 

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I have the slipper and installed it into my 2012. Its a far nicer clutch than we had before.


Still, I ran mine drilled like the above thread shows. That helps a great deal and is cheap.
 

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No Sticky

My 2014 feels good and I have about 7500 milles on it and I don't baby it either..the throw is longer from 1 to 2 but after that hardly even have to pull the lever to shift. I have run kawasaki dino 10/40 oil and now I am going to put Castrol 10/40 racing syntheic at the next change...now I do tighten the cable at the lever peroidcally..keeping it about 3-4 mm of play...so far so good.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, as long as it doesn't hurt anything, I can live with it. It literally goes away once I'm two blocks from the house.

I'll check out that thread as well.
 

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Mine stays ingaged when coming to a stop and the bike is cold for a few seconds. I know that once warm, a lot of my shifts are rough because the clutch hangs for a split second, it doesn't effect anything, but i know its there.

About how much is the slipper clutch for out bikes?
 

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The slipper has to be added with individual parts, no "kit" available.

The parts are:

13087-0566 Hub-Clutch $207.87
13187-0023 Plate-Clutch Operating $108.47
13089-0024 Plate-Clutch SPG COMP $8.49
16007-0711 Seat-Spring (X3) $1.77 $5.31
92145-1630 Spring (X3) $3.56 $10.68
13272-1413 Plate $7.33
92154-1116 Bolt, 6x35 (X3) $5.13 $15.39
13089-0023 Plate, Clutch,T 2.3 $8.49


Thats the bare minimum, and its what you HAVE to order.

Depending how how close you want to build this to spec, you might need some other things.


They assemble our clutches with a stack height in mind. That simply means how thick all of the clutch plates are when you stack them up. If you want ot built right to the Versys spec of 45.6-46.4mm .

To do this, its advisable to have 3-4 of the kawasaki clutch plates that are 2.0mm thick.

13089-1073 11.00 each




Other thing you might want to add is the versys 100 clutch arm. It is shorter, but barely. Its optional.


Part number 13102-0047
RELEASE-COMP-CLUTCH 44.38

Figure about 400.00 total. When we ordered our parts, online parts were discounted. I dont find that as much now.

It really is plug n play. Theres no machining or special skill involved. Remove old parts, add new parts.

Its a far better clutch than what the bike is supplied with.

A FULL and complete write up is here. 2015 Versys 1000LT Slipper clutch... would it fit ????
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Another thing to look into. I'm still not smooth with my shifts on this bike either. I thought I still had to get used to it but maybe it is the clutch after all. I'm lightning fast and smooth on my Daytona but not so much on the Ninja.
 

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The ninja shifting "issue" is not you, or the clutch. Its the stock ecu. If you have Ivan reflash it, the bike will shift like your daytona.

The low end response, and smoothness is just not there on the stock bike. You'd never believe it, but a before and after takes about 10 seconds to prove. I was surprised.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The ninja shifting "issue" is not you, or the clutch. Its the stock ecu. If you have Ivan reflash it, the bike will shift like your daytona.

The low end response, and smoothness is just not there on the stock bike. You'd never believe it, but a before and after takes about 10 seconds to prove. I was surprised.

Very interested. Where do I get it and how much does it cost? Any more details you can give, would be great!
 

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I know for a fact my rough shifting is the clutch. I can feel it unstick especially when I rev to match rpm on downshifts. It will unstick upon revving. It's not always rough, and I don't typically use the clutch while up shifting.p, but no doubt in my mind what it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The low end response, and smoothness is just not there on the stock bike. You'd never believe it, but a before and after takes about 10 seconds to prove. I was surprised.
You know, after some further assessment, I think you may be right. It think it is the low end on/off feel from the throttle that causes my shifts to be rough at times. I have to get that throttle *just* right for it to be smooth; it shouldn't take that much surgical precision LOL. I don't think twice about it on my Triumph.

Separate from that, the sticky clutch only happens the first few miles when cold; after that the clutch itself is smooth and doesn't affect shifting.
 

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Castrol syn racing oil

My 2014 Ninja has always shifted fine after a short warm up. I have about 7900 miles on the bike and i just changed oil to a racing snythetic from castrol ...what a difference...like butter warmed up slick.......
 

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This clutch issue is typical of parts that need to be updated..

One guy says, "Huh? My bike is fine.' Next guy says, "mines horrible"

It speaks to bad quality control, and inconsistent clutch operation.

The new one is drilled for improved oil flow and has the kashima, slippery coatings.
 

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I had the clutch issue when I first bought my bike, and the shop replaced and modified the clutch at 3000 miles. It's not so bad when it gets nice and hot, but cold it still sucks. At 9000 miles, the clutch is stiff, and neutral is once again hard to find until the bike gets very warm, then it gets better, but never as good as any of my other bikes.
Even my Hardley shifts better...
 

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I had a very light chatter when I bought the bike at 1396 miles on Sept 28th. First owner indicated the first service was done.

I took the bike to have it serviced (3750 mile service) last week. I informed the tech of this thread and we talked about it for a bit. He spoke with some of his other bike enthusiasts, and we came up with a different solution to try first (without spending the money for the mod, or doing it myself, etc)

We ended up changing the oil with a different oil from the full syn that was in the bike. That alone fixed the issue. Almost like the oil was not sticking to the plates allowing them to chatter. It also solved finding neutral.
 
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