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A Black 2019 N1K
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
  • Stage 1 upgrade were RaceTech Gold Valves & Springs for the Front & Rear suspension.
  • Stage 2 upgrade was the Akrapovic headers, ECU re-flash & custom dyno tune
  • Stage 3 upgrade is to improve the transmission shifting.
I did think about a Healtech Quick-Shifter, but for my style of riding I feel it is probably unnecessary, so I've gone with a FactoryPro Detent Spring & Murph's Shift Link bearing kit instead. ( I can always buy the HealTech if I win the lottery)..

Oh yes, I also got a Y025 cam from G2 to replace the 050 cam I have now.

A tip for my Aussie friends, the shipping costs from the USA to Aus can be very expensive, even for small parcels, so I used a "drop ship" company called HopShopGo to consolidate packages from 4 different suppliers into a single package. Even with their handling charge, the overall shipping cost was reduced by 75%.

29784
 

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2014 Green N1K
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I love my Y025 quick turn. One of the first mods I did.
 

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That's a nice, care package if I've ever seen one.

When you install the spring, two things. One.....stuff the oil passage ways with something so loose parts wont fall into the oil pan. If you dont, theres a good chance you'll get to remove the oil pan, like I did. That's not hard to do, but it is time consuming.

Two, compress it on a bench, then use a piece of safety wire to hold it in the compressed position. Install spring, then cut the safety wire. It makes the install about 10,000 times easier if you do this.
 

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The reason you cover the oil passages is because the spring has a sleeve that it rides on. When I removed my stock spring, it's under quite a bit of compression. I removed the small bolt, but didnt account for the sleeve, and it dropped into the oil pan.

When it's time to remove the clutch basket, that step appears to be impossible. The basket is too large and wont fit through the case opening. Once you pull the center bearing, the basket can be removed. You dont need a puller to remove the bearing. The bearing/bushing has theeads and I believe they are the same size as the case covers. You thread one of those bolts in and pull it out, with your fingers.

Lori did a good job of documenting and taking pictures.

 

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A Black 2019 N1K
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the "heads up" about the oil passages. I had read (and downloaded) Lori's account of her adventure into DIY mechanics as well as the ZX14 Evo Shift Star replacement.

I still have to order the replacement nut & gasket, so it will be a few weeks before I dive into it.
 

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A Black 2019 N1K
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Discussion Starter #6
Well, I've fitted the Murph's Bearinginged Shift Lever kit and there is zero slop in the shift-lever now. Well worth all the trouble in getting the bushing out.

PM me if you want the tip on how I did it & a bigger hammer is not the answer.
 

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2018 Kawasaki Ninja 1000
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  • Stage 1 upgrade were RaceTech Gold Valves & Springs for the Front & Rear suspension.
View attachment 29784
Hey @Murphyau, on the Racetech site, they don't have anything listed for the Ninja 1000 other than 14/15, can you please let me know which part number you ordered for the '19?
 

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Murph, that factory pro spring is stiff. I couldn't collapse it with my fingers. I had to hold one end and smash the other end into a wall. At that point, one loop of safety wire held it in the collapsed position.

The concours 14 kit was easier to install because theres more hand room. Same basic parts, although I think those were maybe 10% larger.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Hey @Murphyau, on the Racetech site, they don't have anything listed for the Ninja 1000 other than 14/15, can you please let me know which part number you ordered for the '19?
I did not order the parts. I just gave my bike & my credit card to a specialist suspension tuner here in Sydney and said "make this better".

That said, my invoice says the front spring was a FRSP S3627095 (35.5x270x0.95 kg), while the rear spring is a Eibach 0700.225.0550 plus a 50mm thick sppring collar.

The specialist is Terry Haye's Shock Treatment and they are the Australian Importer/Distributor for Race Tech & Eibach components.
 

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I re-used mine, but you could see it was a one time use nut. That spring is one of those parts that makes it hard to understand why it wasnt there in the first place. Yes, the lever is a little more stiff, but not that much.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
My guess is that Kawasaki had conflicting objectives. They wanted a nice soft shift lever motion so that riders did not complain versus a nice strong detent action to avoid missed shifts, so they came up with a compromise.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just fitted the G2 Y025 cam. As mentioned previously in someone else's post, there are 2 small plastic "extensions" inside the throttle housing that need to be removed in order for the Y025 cam to fit.

You might be able to do it with a Dremel tool, but I just held a Stanley/Xacto blade with some pliers, heated the blade red hot with a propane flame and used it as a "thermal blade" to cut/melt the extensions off and then a sharp chisel to clean the last remaining stubs. A 2 minute job, max.

Re-adjusted the throttle cable's slack and it's "all good". I can't wait to test ride the bike tomorrow with the Murph's Bearinginged Shift and the G2 Y025 cam mods.
 

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Murp, between this list, your flash and suspension, you must be getting close to the dreaded f word....Finished...

Do you have anything else on the list? Steering dampers are amazing. I had used a Scott's damper, offroad, and I really liked it. The ninja is the first streetbike I've had with a good damper in place. It's not like its needed, but if you have chopped up roads, its one of the nicest accessories I've ever used. I had to order my Scott's mounting kit from a guy in Thailand. It was expensive, but well worth having. A week, or two after I went through al that, GPR released their damper kit for the ninja 1000...go figure.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The Stage 4 upgrade list includes the HEL braided brake lines and now new pads, and of course the "magic" flywheel mod if I can find a 2017~19 flywheel on eBay.

It is funny that you should mention a steering damper. I have one on the ZRX, which has saved my life on more than 1 occasion, so I really want one on the N1K, but the prices are "over the top".

There is the GPR V4 damper but that's around US$650 by the time I get my hands on it. That's close to AU$925 in my money.

From all my Googling, I've found that there is a company in Taiwan (Dimotiv) that makes a mounting bracket kit for an Ohlin horizontal damper, but the kit alone is around US$450 shipped to Oz plus I'd still need to buy a horizontal damper.

There is also a company in Brazil (MaxRacing) that make a damper similar in design to the GPR V4 but their "export" price is in the US$400 range and I have no idea of the quality.

There are many inexpensive GPR style & Horizontal style dampers on Alibaba but no mounting kits for the N1K.

Why did Kawasaki use the stupid handlebar set-up on the N1K instead of the industry standard style like the Z1000 and Z900 ??
 

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I agree on the bars. Being able to install a pro taper bar would probably eliminate what vibration we have, plus allow easy damper mounting. Wow, and maybe even some form of adjustment? That's a new idea if I ever heard one.

My mount kit was expensive. I dont think he sold maybe 4 or 5 mount kits to all of us. I sent my 325.00, toTaiwan, and waited. Then the guy tells me he changed his design. I figured I had been screwed. Six weeks later, I get a package with the best mount I've ever seen. 100% custom, and perfect. The guys name was Alan Kao. I'm not sure if hes still around, but hes very talented. I believe I paid 225 for my used Scott's damper, plus 30 or 40 for the parts to rebuild it. Almost 600, all in, and well worth that.

I wish we had a reasonable priced option. If people ever got a chance to try good dampers, they would install one on every bike they had.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Webike Japan have a replacement top plate for the triple tree that has the standard handle bar mounts for only US$310.
 

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Murph, what's your total all-in on these mods?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Murph, what's your total all-in on these mods?
Stage 1 Suspension (Gold Valves, springs + custom Set-up) = US$1000
Stage 2 Engine (Akra headers, ECU re-flash + custom dyno tune) = US$1400
Stage 3 Transmission ( Detent spring, shifter bearings, Y025 cam) = US$150
TBD Stage 4 Brakes (F&R braided lines + pads) = US$365

Total = US$2,915. Amortized over 3 years = US$2.66 per day. Less than the price of a cup of coffee at MacDonalds.

And I'll end up with a bike that performs, stops & goes around corners way better than stock.
 
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