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2015 N1K, bought brand new, broken in according to manual. Almost ever since I've had it, occasionally I'll upshift into something other than 2nd, ease out the clutch, and the bike acts like it's in neutral. At first it was between 5th and 6th, but now it's starting to do it in lower gears. Of course, it doesn't do it when you ask the shop to look at it and they can't duplicate it. Apparently, I didn't have synthetic in it , so they put that in at the last oil change, thinking that's what it needed. Still does it. My neighbor, a veteran sport bike rider, suggested that it could be that I'm shifting at too low of an rpm for that engine. So I've made it a point from time to time to make sure I shift at a higher rpm, but it still does it. Anybody else experience this? On the road it's not all that big of a deal, except that I know it's not normal, but I certainly don't want it happening at the track. Thanks for your help!
 

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I also ride the 2015 model. The problem I have is the bike likes to go to neutral from 1st to 2nd a lot of times. However, what you are talking about sounds like false neutral and I don't think it's something that happens very often, I suggest is to make the shift more deliberate. If that doesn't help the problem, there might be some internal issues.

I know that one thing you can do to improve the smoothness of the clutch to do the
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2015 bought new June of 16 with 18200 miles on clock now and shifts great 99.99 % of the time. The .01 I can contribute to a new pair of boots for a day and a lazy foot on rare occasion but it happens.
I did notice after I had the oil changed once it was cluncky going into gear and more notchy between. Turned around after only a couple of blocks and took it back, they insisted it was 10 40 synthetic. I asked to see the empty oil cans and he tried to say they used bulk but I had seen the tech get it off the shelf. Sure enough there was 7 quarts of 20 50 conventional in the trash and no more argument.
I ride the bike at times like Im on a Sunday cruise, others very spirited and every once in a while put the spurs to it. I'll count my blessings and continue to change my oil more than likely to early and with retardedly to expensive of a oil. Most importantly though I'll keep in mind it is a manual trains and I'm using my foot.
Fingers crossed and hoping the best for everyone else too.
Kenneth.
 
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The shift linkage has a lot of play in it. It is very possible to move it without really doing anything to move from gear to gear.


Make sure the lever is adjusted properly. While the bike is stopped, pay close attention to how far you have to move your foot to make a shift happen.


I added a ball bearing pivot to my shift lever. You can get that right here.



https://www.murphskits.com/product_info.php?products_id=463


Just specify "ninja 1000 size" Years ago, I sent him my shift lever and Murph made a kit for us. For 20.00, it eliminates a lot of play.


Ive nto found synthetic oil to make a difference....not that ive tried a ton of them, but so far, my favorite oil , for shifting, is that Valvoline 4 from Wal Mart. It shifts as well, or better than the expensive Mobil 1 racing.....go figure.
 

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You guys dontsuppose we have an option for tighter joints, do you?


The bearing eliminated a lot of slop, for sure. Probably half. Still, it would be nice to tighten this up as much as a set of aftermarket rearsets would.


Heres another help. zr1000,z1000 kawasaki, Data by EC997a eddy current Dynamometer


This spring helps to "lock in" the gear you have selected. If you install one, you'll notice the shift lever being stiffer to move.


Well worth the price. A bit challenging to install. If you get one, please pm me before you try to install. I'll save you from having to remove your oil pan and being forced to use a bunch of swear words.


I for sure developed the "hard way" when it comes to installing this.
 

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Tightining the shifter pedle up some has crossed my mind but without machine work what would our options be?
 

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Besides a new rear set I should have added.
 

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A friend of mine over on the ZRXOA board offers a shifter rebuilding service where he installs a "bearing brass bushing in the shift lever and fit it to the pivot shaft to remove the slop, install a grease zerk, and install after market heim joints and linkage with SS fasteners".

I rebuilt my shifter a couple winters ago with heim joints he provided (but with a shaft I machined myself as I went with bearings instead of bushings and thus I didn't have to ship to him). The combination of the heim joints and shifter bearings eliminates almost all of the slop / play in the shifter. Much more precise shifting now.

If there's enough interest, I can probably get him to create an account over here to offer the service (not sure if that violates any rules of this board, though.....).

ZRXOA Message Board

 

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Murph's Bearinged Up?

The shift linkage has a lot of play in it. It is very possible to move it without really doing anything to move from gear to gear.


Make sure the lever is adjusted properly. While the bike is stopped, pay close attention to how far you have to move your foot to make a shift happen.


I added a ball bearing pivot to my shift lever. You can get that right here.



https://www.murphskits.com/product_info.php?products_id=463


Just specify "ninja 1000 size" Years ago, I sent him my shift lever and Murph made a kit for us. For 20.00, it eliminates a lot of play.


I've not found synthetic oil to make a difference....not that ive tried a ton of them, but so far, my favorite oil , for shifting, is that Valvoline 4 from Wal Mart. It shifts as well, or better than the expensive Mobil 1 racing.....go figure.

RC


On the shifter (Barringed Up) from Murph's you say you just state in the comments "For Ninja 1000" and order the one for the Concourse? That looks solid as all get out. How well does it keep out dirt? Much better than what I saw in my mind for sure and at 22 bucks a done deal.


Also I have to agree with you on the synthetic vs. convectional oil and know its a very personal, highly controversial subject and should have stated that (in my mind) it was more than likely the 20 - 50 weight in cooler fall temps that caused the deference in feel I perceived and not the SYN oil itself.
 

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It's just like it looks.

I have it on both bikes and have never had to clean it, or do anything.

I pressed my bearings in with bolts and washers. I used some of the locate stud locker on the bearings.

They are good, sealed bearings. They type you can remove, and grease if you pull the seals out with an exaco knife. You can e mail Murph and he has the kits ready to go. He's a really nice guy and sells strange, obscure pieces for the concours 14. I liked my bearing shifter on that so much, I sent him my shift lever to build from.

For 20.00, it's the same advantage you get with rearsets. You are still left with the play in the joints, but it reduced it @50%, if not more.

I can't explain oil. You think synthetic, yet one of the worst oils I tried was Rotella synthetic....go figure?

Yet, mobile 1 synthetic is decent. I feel like we are missing something. Some part of the puzzle.

I imagine it all protects well, but there does appear to be a difference in shift action and clutch feel.
 

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Thanks for the info on the bearings.


I agree on the T6 as the shifting wasn't as smooth as it is on the Motul, just hate having to drive to get the stuff. Did recently read an article on Lucas products and thinking of giving them a shot as they are readily available and 2/3rds the price of the big M here in the South but might just go back to Good Ole Valvoline myself as it is what I used in my younger days when I know I exceeded recommended intervals.
 

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BAZI


I'm a little slow some times so slap me around if I haven't been paying attention but how long have you had your personal Plate?
 

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Keep in mind the shaft bearings are only half of the equation, the stock "ball" joints are responsible for the other half of the play, maybe more.
 

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Yes, and I dont have a good solution for the ball joints. There has to be one, but ive not found it yet.
Yes, I would try some better ones. I thin this play leads to damage. Over time, the play gets worse, and you need to move your foot more to accomplish the same thing.


Also, its why I think its a joke trying to time 24 milliseconds within this linkage (quick shifter)


The best thing soemoen can do is notice it, then realize how much a person has to move their foot to accomplish the shift.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
BAZI


I'm a little slow some times so slap me around if I haven't been paying attention but how long have you had your personal Plate?
I've had the plate about a year and a half; I got it right after I moved to Missouri. I just recently made it my avatar, though. The picture was actually taken when it was still on my 2008 NINJA 250R
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Boy, have I opened up a can of worms here or what?? Thanks for all the great info! I'll check to see how much slop is in the shifter, and then maybe start with the Murph's mod and see what happens. Is that just a replacement for the bolt, etc that holds on the shifter? The real question I'm asking here is whether it's something I can fix while being left unattended. I wouldn't want to get into anything too serious (if necessary) until winter. That, and my bike is my only motorized transportation at the moment because my truck has been in the shop getting the engine rebuilt since Memorial Day weekend.
 

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Chrispy


The ZXROA site is asking me to start a profile it looks like and I'm afraid I have to pass there, can you (If no one has objections) list contact information on the joints you used?


Murph replied and I've attached it below, putting my order in today. I've not had issues but have cleaned and applied dry graphite 2 or 3 times now to the pedal pivot point and can see it is one area I would like to upgrade so that when I do get that lazy foot syndrome maybe it will help, plus I'm just anal like that.


Murph's reply to my email asking if he still carried the bearings as they are not listed on his site.


Kenneth



We do, and thank you for reminding me I need to get it on thesite. For now just order from the Concourse page and in the commentssection mention you want it for the Ninja and not the Concourse






Murph
 

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With regards to installing the bearings....


The bearings he sends are the same size, obviously. Precision bearings. The hole that is in the shift lever is not.



I had one shift lever that let me push the bearings in by hand. The second lever needed the force of a bolt and nut to press them in.


Either way, it was pretty easy. The entire install may have taken 10 minutes. Have some of the loctite "bearing and stud formula" or "retaining " formula.



You want the stuff that is used on bearings and studs to keep them locked in place. Coat your new bearing press it in, and bolt it back on the bike.


I dont know what anyone's mechanical abilities are like, but this is not too bad, and is a good, cheap way to improve shifting.


You will still have some play, due to the poor joints kawasaki uses, but this will help a great deal.
 
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