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I think you could use this without much risk, or any added risk. Just dont ignore the bolts.

I have not seen where anyone had frame damage. It's just broken bolts. If someone added the long bolts Kenors talked about, there wont be an issue.
 

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Agreed. This isn't a joint strength or bolt strength issue. It's a loose bolt issue. I suspect if Kawasaki had put as much thread lock on these bolts as they did on the bar end weight screws it wouldn't be an issue. Perhaps it doesn't work as well on a steel/aluminum interface? Once the bolts come loose the "chopping" action of the tail section vibrating up and down will either shear off the bolts or round out the holds in the aluminum frame to the point where the bolts fall out.
 

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As I mentioned in another thread, I just do not see how a 10-lb top case mounted to a 5-lb rack could cause an M8 bolt to shear clean off. 8.8 steel bolt, which probably is what Kawi used, is around 60ksi. Even if you replace it with 316 SS, it is still a good 50ksi.

I'd be more worried if you regularly carry a pillion. Even then, she would have to be of some significant tonnage and you ride over some pretty rough roads.

The inline4 buzz does have a nasty habit of loosening bolts. I've already lost a few and have loctited quite a few since, as preventative measure. Backup nut and safety wire work too.

Another likely cause for a broken bolt could be over-torque. Once you stretch a bolt beyond its yield strength, it is significantly weaken. I can imagine that being done, after a bolt came loose and so the owner torqued it back on REAL GOOD AND TIGHT... worsening the problem in the process.
 

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Volfy, we never get to hear the full story, or to hear how much weight is involved.. Those bolts have to support the subframe, obviously. That means rider weight, passenger weight and the box. If the box starts carrying heavy things, maybe it makes more sense?
 

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Titanium isn't the greatest for this connection. 10.9 steel would be better, and cheaper, but not nearly as pretty.
 

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I have a 2021, and attempting the install. I took off the seat, the rails, and the 4 bolts in center area. I cannot see the two screws people are describing, I think I need to remove the whole rear cowling as well? The license plate holder did not drop out after removing the 4 bolts, and I obviously need to get under the cowl to get the mounting plate somewhere, but the 21's have a full-plastic cover over the bottom fender. I might be screwed on the fitment; has anyone installed on a '21?

TIA,
Joel
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Here is the surface under the tail, there appear to be two bolt holes, without anything else to fasten the bottom mounting plate. I think I'm screwed?
 

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Ok, to beat a dead horse more, I dropped the undertail and found the two hidden Phillips screws to drop the license plate bracket, but I now need to figure out how to unfasten the three wires going into the plate/signal assembly. Anyone have a pic or diagram for where they disconnect?

Also, anyone have a pic of the mounting plate under the tail? I'm still not seeing how it's going to fit, over the astic undertail?
Gah, this was more than I expected tonight.
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Ok, to beat a dead horse more, I dropped the undertail and found the two hidden Phillips screws to drop the license plate bracket, but I now need to figure out how to unfasten the three wires going into the plate/signal assembly. Anyone have a pic or diagram for where they disconnect?

Also, anyone have a pic of the mounting plate under the tail? I'm still not seeing how it's going to fit, over the astic undertail?
Gah, this was more than I expected tonight. View attachment 32353 View attachment 32354 View attachment 32355
I'm having the exact same issue. I sent an email out to them. Were you able to figure something out?
 

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Yes, you need to disassemble the entire undertail (it's actually not that hard. the spacers are a b*tch to get right, especially without help. The bracket fits on the outside of the the plastic under-tail cover. It takes some patience, but eventually will make sense.
 

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Yes, you need to disassemble the entire undertail (it's actually not that hard. the spacers are a b*tch to get right, especially without help. The bracket fits on the outside of the the plastic under-tail cover. It takes some patience, but eventually will make sense.
I think I understand what to do now, thanks.
 

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I can, tomorrow or Thurs. I just dropped the bike off for a little tweaking (rearsets and clipons) cuz I'm a wimp and didn't want to do it myself.
 

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I can, tomorrow or Thurs. I just dropped the bike off for a little tweaking (rearsets and clipons) cuz I'm a wimp and didn't want to do it myself.
I edited my reply, I think I understand how to do it. Now I just have to unplug the wires, any tips for that?
 

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Yes, I posted and others replied. Sorry, I don't have the link to that thread, but you can search my posts. you just need a small screw driver to release the wiring harnesses. They are tough to release at first, but they will release.
 

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Yes, I posted and others replied. Sorry, I don't have the link to that thread, but you can search my posts. you just need a small screw driver to release the wiring harnesses. They are tough to release at first, but they will release.
Found it. Thank you!
 
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