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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Asking for tips from anyone who has installed the Shad Top Rack.

The instructions are fairly clear but it seems it takes a lot of juggling to install the plate that goes between the fender and undertail. As you know there are the two Phillips head screws that hold the fender in place before you bolt with the four bolts. The plate no longer allows you to use the Phillips screws to temporarily hold the fender while you route the turn signal and plate wires connect them, tidy up the wires, etc.

How the hell can you hold that all together without someone else to hold stuff? (I may have to ask for another set of hands, but trying to avoid it)

I attached the instructions as well.
 

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I havent put the rack on, but those 4 screws suck. My older bike doesnt have the two Phillip's screws you are talking about. If I pull those 4, my license plate holder/fender just falls.

I used a bungee cord to hold it in place. My fender eliminator piece has two holes for the turn signals to attach to. I grabbed it there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks that makes sense. I didn't realize there is that difference in the model years. The screws really help. I will try using the bungee cord. Thanks
 

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Where are those screws? They have to be near the 4 bolts, or I didnt put mine back in. It's been a long time. Is it possible those screws were not used once a fender eliminator went on? That might be it....?
 

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Also be very careful about how you route the wiring for the turn signals. It's easy to mis-route them and then while you tighten that assembly it pinches one of the wires. You find out when when you first use the turn signal and it blows a fuse. Then you get to take it all apart again, fix the wire and start over.
I used a bungee cord as well (Givi luggage mounts require a similar assembly procedure.) As I recall, with the mount hanging on the bungees I started one screw closest to the front catching just a few threads and leaving it loose. Then the other front. You have the added task of keeping the spacers in place while threading screws.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Where are those screws? They have to be near the 4 bolts, or I didnt put mine back in. It's been a long time. Is it possible those screws were not used once a fender eliminator went on? That might be it....?
Where are those screws? They have to be near the 4 bolts, or I didnt put mine back in. It's been a long time. Is it possible those screws were not used once a fender eliminator went on? That might be it....?
The screws are "C" in the picture
30357
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Also be very careful about how you route the wiring for the turn signals. It's easy to mis-route them and then while you tighten that assembly it pinches one of the wires. You find out when when you first use the turn signal and it blows a fuse. Then you get to take it all apart again, fix the wire and start over.
I used a bungee cord as well (Givi luggage mounts require a similar assembly procedure.) As I recall, with the mount hanging on the bungees I started one screw closest to the front catching just a few threads and leaving it loose. Then the other front. You have the added task of keeping the spacers in place while threading screws.
Thanks Ken. Yeah, I was concerned about them and took extra care to route them in the holders. They are ok for now. I just hope that they aren't pinched somewhere.

30358
 

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Thanks Ken. Yeah, I was concerned about them and took extra care to route them in the holders. They are ok for now. I just hope that they aren't pinched somewhere.

View attachment 30358
That looks so clean and it's compatible with the OEM cases? Sign me up. What size top box is that one? Only thing I'm worried about is it looks like you probably have to take the grab rails off despite what the instructions picture says, and mine were tweaked so no guarantee the grab rails would ever make it back on the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That looks so clean and it's compatible with the OEM cases? Sign me up. What size top box is that one? Only thing I'm worried about is it looks like you probably have to take the grab rails off despite what the instructions picture says, and mine were tweaked so no guarantee the grab rails would ever make it back on the bike.
Thank you. Yes, they are completely compatible. The only concern I have is how much I can safely put in the top case without snapping the frame. I don't plan on putting much in there but it might not take much.

That is the the Shad 39 case and fits nicely there. It holds a full face helmet and then some. Kind of a nice addition.

You're correct, you do need to take off the grab rails to install because you will need to put in a longer bolt on the forward part of the rail.
 

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If you use this type of box, be sure and check your subframe bolts on a regular basis. There are only 4 bolts holding it in place. I remember a few people having the subframe bolts fall....Its the holes labeled as "a" in this photo. If these get lose, the subframe will chop them in half. If it happens during a ride, you are screwed.
30384
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you use this type of box, be sure and check your subframe bolts on a regular basis. There are only 4 bolts holding it in place. I remember a few people having the subframe bolts fall....Its the holes labeled as "a" in this photo. If these get lose, the subframe will chop them in half. If it happens during a ride, you are screwed. View attachment 30384
Thanks RC. I wouldn't have thought of those bolts.
 

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It might have been on the old forum, but picture those bolts, loose. Now add the guys wife, and a top box. I believe the front bolt acted like a pivot, and it cut the rear bolt in half.

I havent heard about this happening for a LONG time. I wonder if the newer bikes have a stronger mount? Still, no big deal to check them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It might have been on the old forum, but picture those bolts, loose. Now add the guys wife, and a top box. I believe the front bolt acted like a pivot, and it cut the rear bolt in half.

I havent heard about this happening for a LONG time. I wonder if the newer bikes have a stronger mount? Still, no big deal to check them.
That definitely changes things with weight on it. I don't plan to put much in there but can put extra clothes and the helmet when parked.
 

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Just fitted mine, 2020 model. Ended up removing the grab handles & rear cowl, dropping the under tail and undoing the wiring so I could remove the extra 2 Phillip head screws and route the cables thru the shad base plate. Was fiddly but pleased with result. Missus now happier with something behind her as well just in case.
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If you use this type of box, be sure and check your subframe bolts on a regular basis. There are only 4 bolts holding it in place. I remember a few people having the subframe bolts fall....Its the holes labeled as "a" in this photo. If these get lose, the subframe will chop them in half. If it happens during a ride, you are screwed. View attachment 30384
This happened to my z1000sx 2018.
The rear bolts was chop in half and the front bolts was loosed.Now i have ordered four titanium hex bolts with drilled heads to lock them
with lock wire.I already know that this bolts torqued with 25Nm and must have thread lock glue. Yes i have top box and i think that was happened,
because of top box vibration at high speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This happened to my z1000sx 2018.
The rear bolts was chop in half and the front bolts was loosed.Now i have ordered four titanium hex bolts with drilled heads to lock them
with lock wire.I already know that this bolts torqued with 25Nm and must have thread lock glue. Yes i have top box and i think that was happened,
because of top box vibration at high speeds.
Wow, that's kinda scary. Did you load stuff in the top case?

The problem with checking the bolts is that you have to take part of the rack to get to them. I may just stop using the case.
 

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Yes it is scary i have no clue how this happened. I was put the original top case when i bought the bike brand new, with KIT ACCESSORY, BRACKET, TOP CASE
Part Number : 99994-0902. Now i very disappointed with z1000sx. Maybe kawasaki miss something , how the heck two bolts hold all the rear weight ?
I don't load to much weight at rear, me and my wife. I believe there is too mush vibrations from the Top case do this mess, but this is tourer bike right ?
I saw some posts to suggest to check this bolts but to access them is a pain in the ***. I try to fix this with drilled titanium bolts,
secure them with lock wire and of course loctite glue.
The other option for me is to put longer bolts about 40mm with lock nuts. Note this bolts are M8x23mm torque 25Nm, 6mm allen key. Right now i put four "normal" bolts A2-70 just to fix it temporary. But now i am very very disappointed bought a kawasaki tourer , it is too expensive for this mess .
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I decided to uninstall the top rack and case since there's the potential for the frame to crack. Plus, I don't see myself "needing" it since I don't do a lot of long distance and the wife is not interested in joining me.

I checked the bolts that RC suggested and fortunately they are still solid. So, nothing happened of it.

I will be listing the items for sale.
 
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