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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thx I had a slight clunk in steering stem. Tore down and tightened stem. Not too bad of a job. For some reason I thought I could do this without taking off the forks. I was wrong. You have to take out the forks in order to remove the upper clamp. Overall not a bad job.
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Did you support your bike on the exhaust? It looks like your bike is on a rear stand when this is going on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I used the rear stand and jacked by the exhaust with a jack-stand as well. It worked but honestly had to be careful when wrenching on the fork supports. It had a tendency to pull to the left side - that is where the jack stand came in handy. I had that under the clutch cover bolt hole at the bottom with a rag to prevent scratching.
 
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I have the same issue on my '18. Thanks for the prompt to do something about it. My '14 I supported with a rear stand and jack under the engine with a wood block to distribute the load. I'll probably do the same with the '18. To add a bit of security I put a board with outriggers under the rear stand.
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It was funny because I had been out in the garage checking my steering head bearings. I used my rear stand and attempted to use this jack. It was mostly useless on this bike. There really wasnt anywhere , towards the front, to use as lift points. This jack tries to lift the entire bike out of the rear stand.

I have my pitbull front lift, but it lifts at the lower triple clamp. It's totally worthless if you want to adjust , or lubricate the bearings.

I'll strap the back end down, like Kenors did.
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Makes no sense to me that the forks have to come out. Why won’t the top clamp just slide up and off the tubes?

I’m not questioning whether you are right or wrong. I believe you, just trying to understand.
 

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That top clamp will pop off once the center nut is removed. It's not as easy as it looks to do that. Everything is built with pretty much no tolerance so it tends to stick in place. You also have to make sure the top clamp is perfectly straight and flat or it binds on the tubes. Much easier to do with the fork tubes removed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The strap is a great idea. I should have done that…. I know for next time. Thx. The impact gun really helps on the top stem nut. That thing gets stuck on there pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
jjsc - I tried that but RC is correct. The tolerances were so tight it did not budge. Also I am not sure the ignition wires would be long enough - but since I removed the fork tubes I could not be sure of that.
 
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As I mentioned in an earlier post, I just made a simple timber frame that sits under the front engine mounting bolts and sits on top of the sissor jack. No risk of the bike falling off the jack, no risk of denting the exhaust pipes or denting the sump. I think the construction instruction are still available if anyone wants them.

Easy Peasie.

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ABBA stands have a neat way of lifting the front, with nothing in the way of wheel removal:
 

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Triple clamps always amazed me. You can look at it and see it's a cheap casting, but, if we took the clamp from my bike and moved it to this bike, it fits without any adjustment, or custom fitting.

Murph, I like your stand mods. Mine worked well when I used it on the frame sections . It lifted the entire bike, no problem. Not so awesome when I wanted the back end to stay in the stand. The lift point, near the sump, wasnt forward enough of the balance point.

The spot you used is perfect. I'll get some wood.

Mart, why would I buy an abba stand when I can spend way more and end up with something that needs wooden 2x4's to do what I want it to do? Wood is awesome, right? I know.........

That was my mistake. I have an excellent chock, a great rear stand as well as front stand. However, my front stand lifts from under the triple clamp. Its worthless for maintaining the steering head. Great for tires. Amazing for fork work, but I might as well cram it up my *** when it's a steering head issue.

Steering head bearings have to be set perfectly for your bike to handle correctly. You cant accomplish that with weight on the front end.
 

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my 2018 has had a clunk in the steering stem since i bought it with only 1100 miles. obviously an assembly oversight. thanks for the info, guys
 

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As I mentioned in an earlier post, I just made a simple timber frame that sits under the front engine mounting bolts and sits on top of the sissor jack. No risk of the bike falling off the jack, no risk of denting the exhaust pipes or denting the sump. I think the construction instruction are still available if anyone wants them.

Easy Peasie.

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I might just have to steal your idea and make one to fit under the T-Rex frame slider pucks. Those pucks are beefy and ride on a sub-rail tied to two frame/engine bolts on each side. Should be easily strong enough to support the bike.

I've already got this jack that I use on my dirt bikes. Perfect for this.
Arm Machine Auto part Electric blue Event
 

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Volfy, the 1/2" rod, through the swingarm pivot works. I had to open up the right side....maybe 1mm worth..It almost fit, as is.. to get it to slide all the way through. That worked really well with the motor jack. I uses rhe spot right in front of the oil filter.
 

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RC, I know. I've done that with several bikes, going back to the old '08 ZX10R and RSV1000R. It's great for doing more extensive work that needs full clearance (no stands, jacks, etc.) on either front or rear end. Supremely stable. However, it does take a bit of rig up/down time, and once set up, there is no moving the bike... not even a tiny bit.

For quickie jobs like changing tires, something I can pop on and off easily would be really nice... kinda like what a centerstand would do.
 

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Centerstand...no kidding.

This 1/2" rod is a real option for someone who doest want to spend a fortune in stands.

I did use my rear stand to set the bike on the rod and the jack stands. It might be hard to do without a rear stand?

I was concerned when the rod didn't fit but, that was because of a small amount of interference, on the right side.

I'll use my stands for most everything. This is good for steering steering head lubrication and shock removal. Not often, but its a good option to have. I'm glad you brought it up.
 

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Thx I had a slight clunk in steering stem. Tore down and tightened stem. Not too bad of a job. For some reason I thought I could do this without taking off the forks. I was wrong. You have to take out the forks in order to remove the upper clamp. Overall not a bad job.
Thanks for sharing about this. Gives me some ideas of how this is done and I can prep for mine later.

By the way, I see that you have the MotoDynamics Fender Eliminator and also installed the KQR saddlebags. Did the Fender Eliminator pose any problems with the installation of the KQR mount?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for sharing about this. Gives me some ideas of how this is done and I can prep for mine later.

By the way, I see that you have the MotoDynamics Fender Eliminator and also installed the KQR saddlebags. Did the Fender Eliminator pose any problems with the installation of the KQR mount?
I also have the KQR's and there are no issues. If you notice I have not attached the sidemarkers so I really dont know if they would hit or not. I believe MotoDynamics said they would fit but I have not tried.
 

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I also have the KQR's and there are no issues. If you notice I have not attached the sidemarkers so I really dont know if they would hit or not. I believe MotoDynamics said they would fit but I have not tried.
Can't really see the rear of your bike in the picture.
What side-markers were you referring to?
 
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