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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought my saddlebags used, and they still have the old locks and a generic key to operate them. I want to either rekey these locks to my own key, or replace them with new lock cylinders that come with One Key System. However, I’m not sure how to take out the existing lock cylinders (to reconfigure or replace). Can someone suggest how to do this?

Thank you!
 

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I'm by no means a locksmith and with out a kit I keyed a set of used bags to my bike. Or take them to a lock smith with your both keys and it will probably take them less then an hour.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you have to take the locks out of the panniers to rekey them? That’s what I’m trying to find out.

I'm by no means a locksmith and with out a kit I keyed a set of used bags to my bike. Or take them to a lock smith with your both keys and it will probably take them less then an hour.
 

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Did you have to take the locks out of the panniers to rekey them? That’s what I’m trying to find out.

I'm by no means a locksmith and with out a kit I keyed a set of used bags to my bike. Or take them to a lock smith with your both keys and it will probably take them less then an hour.
Yes you have to remove the locks/ (barrels) I believe their called)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That’s what I’m trying to figure out how to.

Did you have to take the locks out of the panniers to rekey them? That’s what I’m trying to find out.

I'm by no means a locksmith and with out a kit I keyed a set of used bags to my bike. Or take them to a lock smith with your both keys and it will probably take them less then an hour.
Yes you have to remove the locks/ (barrels) I believe their called)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok. I did it. Used some instructions from here https://www.versys.co.uk/index.php/topic,22365.10.html

Basically had to open up panniers lock plate from the inside (6 screws) - Four big, two small. And 3 small screws on the outside. This lock plate/cover also has glue strip on the side where 3 small screws are. Requires a little bit of force, but comes off. Once the lock section is exposed, few more screws to get the lock housing out.
 

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Good investigating and good tip. I assembled my own luggage and had to put the locks together and key them but getting them apart is more obscure. I kind of figured there would be some physical disassembly required to get the barrel out. If you haven't seen how to install and key the locks, this is a good video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=9neu1Y1wFEw
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks. Because I was able to access the lock barrels I reused one of the barrels and few tumblers from the existing locks to rekey. This way I was able to save one lock set (tumblers and barrel) from my ‘One Key System’ kit. Now I can use that for rear case if I buy that too.

Good investigating and good tip. I assembled my own luggage and had to put the locks together and key them but getting them apart is more obscure. I kind of figured there would be some physical disassembly required to get the barrel out. If you haven't seen how to install and key the locks, this is a good video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=9neu1Y1wFEw
 

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Ok. I did it. Used some instructions from here Pannier lock cylinder removal

Basically had to open up panniers lock plate from the inside (6 screws) - Four big, two small. And 3 small screws on the outside. This lock plate/cover also has glue strip on the side where 3 small screws are. Requires a little bit of force, but comes off. Once the lock section is exposed, few more screws to get the lock housing out.
Saving this post, as I have acquired a used set of bags that have the previous owner's cylinder. I still have to go get them in about a month or so, but will be following this procedure. I already have the new one key set. Thanks for posting this.
 

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I figured I'd add my inputs to this thread for posterity. I found this excellent YouTube video and will add my photos and experience to this discussion thread:

I had a slightly cracked luggage mount on my exiting luggage, its been totally fine, no wiggles, not loose, and not growing, but it always made me worry it would break one day. Anyway, I got a great deal on another set from OCNinja and swapped the lock cylinders from my existing bags to the new ones. Here is my experience:

Get a small flathead screwdriver (1/8" X 2.5"), a small phillips head screwdriver (#0 X 2.5"), and T30 Torx bit, your fingers and wrist will appreciate if this Torx bit is a socket or drill bit (I used a simple torx key, I bought a cheap set of them for $8)

The additional note I would add to the video is that releasing the adhesive tape along the inner side of the luggage behind the three tiny phillips head screws is nerve-wracking but actually quite easy. I slipped a thin screwdriver blade into the seam and pried upwards very slightly (resulting in scary cracking sounds as the tape released) to release the tape seal, and repeated that along the seam every inch or so. I did that until the tape completely released. Then the top part just falls off (There is nothing holding the top cover on (except that tape) after all the screws are removed, so you can attempt to release it without fear of cracking anything.

I used the opportunity to drip some Breakfree CLP miracle oil onto the cylinders of all 4 locks and they all work very smoothly now. Success, I can now ride with total peace of mind.


See photos:
1) Three small phillips head screws (the tape is along this seam)
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive design Automotive exterior

2) 2 round headed phillips head screws & 4 T30 Torx screws (this takes forever to screw in/out by hand!)
Vehicle Steering wheel Motor vehicle Automotive design Car

4) The locking "bolt"
Chair Cameras & optics Machine Automotive tire Automotive design

5) 3 small phillips head screws holding the bolt portion of the lock, engages with the lock cylinder
Automotive design Automotive lighting Automotive tire Bumper Gas

6) Exposed "bolt", take note of the location of the lock cylinder (unlocked position shown)
Hand Automotive tire Hood Sleeve Automotive lighting

7) Remove lock cylinder
Automotive tire Tire Light Motor vehicle Door

Automotive tire Gas Nickel Auto part Metal

Hand Automotive tire Finger Thumb Household hardware

Repeat for the other bag, swap lock cylinders, reverse steps 1-7, then you are halfway done. This took me 2 hours since I'd never done it before and I was being super careful. If I had to do this again (with the correct Torx bit tool) I could probably swap lock cylinders in an hour or less.

-Oliver Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive design Automotive exterior
Vehicle Steering wheel Motor vehicle Automotive design Car
Chair Cameras & optics Machine Automotive tire Automotive design
Automotive design Automotive lighting Automotive tire Bumper Gas
Hand Automotive tire Hood Sleeve Automotive lighting
Automotive tire Tire Light Motor vehicle Door
Automotive tire Gas Nickel Auto part Metal
Hand Automotive tire Finger Thumb Household hardware
 

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2017 N1K , risers, v stream screen, Black Widow full exhaust,.. lowered pegs. Led turns,..tail tidy
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I figured I'd add my inputs to this thread for posterity. I found this excellent YouTube video and will add my photos and experience to this discussion thread:

I had a slightly cracked luggage mount on my exiting luggage, its been totally fine, no wiggles, not loose, and not growing, but it always made me worry it would break one day. Anyway, I got a great deal on another set from OCNinja and swapped the lock cylinders from my existing bags to the new ones. Here is my experience:

Get a small flathead screwdriver (1/8" X 2.5"), a small phillips head screwdriver (#0 X 2.5"), and T30 Torx bit, your fingers and wrist will appreciate if this Torx bit is a socket or drill bit (I used a simple torx key, I bought a cheap set of them for $8)

The additional note I would add to the video is that releasing the adhesive tape along the inner side of the luggage behind the three tiny phillips head screws is nerve-wracking but actually quite easy. I slipped a thin screwdriver blade into the seam and pried upwards very slightly (resulting in scary cracking sounds as the tape released) to release the tape seal, and repeated that along the seam every inch or so. I did that until the tape completely released. Then the top part just falls off (There is nothing holding the top cover on (except that tape) after all the screws are removed, so you can attempt to release it without fear of cracking anything.

I used the opportunity to drip some Breakfree CLP miracle oil onto the cylinders of all 4 locks and they all work very smoothly now. Success, I can now ride with total peace of mind.


See photos:
1) Three small phillips head screws (the tape is along this seam)
View attachment 33471
2) 2 round headed phillips head screws & 4 T30 Torx screws (this takes forever to screw in/out by hand!)
View attachment 33472
4) The locking "bolt"
View attachment 33473
5) 3 small phillips head screws holding the bolt portion of the lock, engages with the lock cylinder
View attachment 33474
6) Exposed "bolt", take note of the location of the lock cylinder (unlocked position shown)
View attachment 33475
7) Remove lock cylinder
View attachment 33476
View attachment 33477
View attachment 33478
Repeat for the other bag, swap lock cylinders, reverse steps 1-7, then you are halfway done. This took me 2 hours since I'd never done it before and I was being super careful. If I had to do this again (with the correct Torx bit tool) I could probably swap lock cylinders in an hour or less.

-Oliver View attachment 33471 View attachment 33472 View attachment 33473 View attachment 33474 View attachment 33475 View attachment 33476 View attachment 33477 View attachment 33478
Thanks Oliver, Haven't done my key yet, (got all the parts)... but the cases are great!!!
 
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