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I am embarking on the infuriating task of gathering all the needed supplies for an oil change. I am a little confused regarding changing the filter. I am looking for a filter remover, but the one on Revzilla is size-specific, and to my knowledge the size is not on the filter (16097-0008). What would be a good filter remover for this bike? I am also wondering what I need to use to tighten the new filter to the recommended torque.
 

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I would only hand tighten the oil filter. Just follow the instructions on the filter as to how far to turn it after contact. If you are near an autoparts store like AutoZone, O'Reilly Auto Parts, Advance Auto Parts - they all have various oil filter wrenches that will fit our filters. No need to remove the fairing. With patience, and careful threading your hands in there - it can be done easily. Don't forget that you may need to "burp" the filter before tightening it. Search the threads to find out more on that.
 
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K and n filters get a bad rap because they leak.

The welded on nut is a mixed blessing, and has been a problem for many years. Especially so if the nut was used to tighten it in place. The nut is supposed to be used to remove the filter. Not to tighten. When you are removing it, you are not worried about cracking the housing.

Oil filters are supposed to be hand tight. It sounds crazy, but that's true. Tighten until filter touches the housing, then 1/2 -3/4 turn...that's it. That's why you dont have awesome clearance..its not needed. On this bike, if you happen to crank one on more than the full turn, it's can be hard to remove...just like the stock filter was.
 

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It's strange, because you dont hear of it all the time, but it goes back to 2010. I'm sure most of the filters are fine. It's worth keeping an eye on, but probably no big thing. Well, until it happens.
 

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I changed my oil on my ‘17 recently. The filter was only hand-tight. I made sure I could unscrew it with my hand first - leaving it slightly looser for hand removal when warm - then warmed up the bike before draining and removing filter. I used the K&N filter to replace it so I could use my torque wrench to properly tighten the new filter. The torque specs are in the service manual. So far so good, hundreds of miles later.
 

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N1k1le, you made a really good point.....when a manugacturer gives you a torque spec, that spec presumes the fastener is dry, unless it states otherwise. Some might suggest mineral oil thread sealant, or whatever. Kawasaki doesnt specify, so their figures are for dry fasteners.

That's pretty tough to do on an oil drain bolt, or oil filter. When they train you on torque wrench use, a situation like this oil drain bolt would be whatever torque is specified, then subtract 30-40% from that value and set your wrench to that figure since you have oil on the threads.

I think this contributes to the filter failure. If you set the wrench to 20 lb/ft ( just guessing...I dont know the correct figure) the oberall ends up being closer to 30...much more than the filter nut was designed to handle since it's supposed to be used for removal, only.,
 

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N1k1le, you made a really good point.....when a manugacturer gives you a torque spec, that spec presumes the fastener is dry, unless it states otherwise. Some might suggest mineral oil thread sealant, or whatever. Kawasaki doesnt specify, so their figures are for dry fasteners.

That's pretty tough to do on an oil drain bolt, or oil filter. When they train you on torque wrench use, a situation like this oil drain bolt would be whatever torque is specified, then subtract 30-40% from that value and set your wrench to that figure since you have oil on the threads.

I think this contributes to the filter failure. If you set the wrench to 20 lb/ft ( just guessing...I dont know the correct figure) the oberall ends up being closer to 30...much more than the filter nut was designed to handle since it's supposed to be used for removal, only.,
The service manual says to “apply grease” and torque the oil filter to 13 ft lbs. which is what I did. Just as an FYI the oil drain bolt just says torque to 21 ft lbs with no further instructions. Also, just FYI per the manual the oil filler plug is “hand-tighten”.
 

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The service manual says to “apply grease” and torque the oil filter to 13 ft lbs. which is what I did. Just as an FYI the oil drain bolt just says torque to 21 ft lbs with no further instructions. Also, just FYI per the manual the oil filler plug is “hand-tighten”.
These are per the torque spec charts, not the full instructions listed which of course walks you through the procedures, and goes into more details.
 

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Doesnt that make sense? A torque spec of 13 isnt much. You can picture someone , not using a torque wrench and using way more. Especially if that nut is a 17mm on the K and N.
 

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I must admit, changing oil and filter is something that I never bother to look at a manual any more. If it ever comes back to bite me y'all guys can tell me "I told you so."
I haven't put a torque wrench on a drain bolt in many many many years. I haven't bought a crush washer EVER including some of my VFRs that had 20-25 oil changes in them. Every oil filter I've put on since the 80's has been tightened by my fingers only. It's just not a procedure anyone needs to lose sleep over.
 

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After finding the filter I was going to use I found a filter socket that fit it. A 12" extension that allows just a little bit of angle and a stubby ratchet. Along with the socket for the drain plug it all gets put in a canvas zip up bag and that's my oil change kit. Think I found the oil filter socket at Walmart.
 

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Doesnt that make sense? A torque spec of 13 isnt much. You can picture someone , not using a torque wrench and using way more. Especially if that nut is a 17mm on the K and N.
Yeah, would be easy to over torque it with a wrench. I seemingly always over-torque unless I use a torque wrench, and therefore I use one. I’m sure hand tightening would be fine, but I’m anal about my N1000, and always refer to the Service Manual when I do any work on it.
 

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I hate using strap wrenches for both my car and bike. Its such a tight fit to maneuver in there and then you have to get the tension just so to actually be able to pop the filter off. I've switched to K&N filters with the bolt on the end for this reason. If you're still struggling to get it off because the filter has been overtightened by either yourself or a dealership, stab a screwdriver sideways through the filter. Then you can bang on it with a hammer and it'll come off. Its messy, but I've had to do it on my car after valvoline went nuts with filter tightness.
 

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I pinched a girl on the t**, in high school, with those pliers so I was aware if the existence. I bought a set of cheap ones and bent them to a 90 degree angle for the ninja. They work really well for filters, too.
 

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I've got one of the those channellocks (forgot which size), and it does come it handy occasionally. I've accumulate a small collection of oil filter wrenches over the years. Not really that many, maybe 5 or 6, but I've yet to come across a filter I couldn't work on with at least one of them. Surprisingly, I still use the good ol' steel band wrenches more than any of the others.

I just wish mfrs would get rid of the metal can oil filter all together. Several of the cars I've had all had internal cartridge type filters. Take just a hex socket to remove the cap from top of the engine. Much easier and very little mess. The old Yamaha's I rode back in the 80's had the same internal cartridge filters. Too bad not more mfrs take that route.
 

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Most (not all) Kawasakis used an "internal" oil filter cartridge up to around 2010. My 2005 ZRX1200 used the same internal filter as my 1972 KZ650. Kawasaki seem to have gone away from the internal cartridges when they changed the ZX engine architecture.
 
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