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Received my ICU back from Ivan!

5K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  Rickifumi  
#1 ·
Received my ECU back today. Dealing with Ivan was a pleasure.
Putting the ECU back in without tail disassembly was a little tougher than getting it out without tail disassembly. The trick was to bend the rear tab that engages the rubber ecu/fusebox holder down/forward a bit. Then slid the holder with the ECU in it back into place, rear tab first then the front. Next, plugged in the two black plugs. Then slid the fusebox Into the holder and snapped the three grey plugs in....

Then I fired her up. Was idling around 1000 rpm. Followed Ivan's instructions and took it for a short spin around the block to get it up to operating temp. Set the idle to 1250 and went for my first evaluation ride. WHAT AN AMAZING DIFFERENCE HIS WORK HAS MADE TO THIS MACHINE!

The hype is all true. It's a completely different bike now. Let off the gas for the first time and didnt feel like I was riding a bronco anymore! Rolled the throttle on. Smile grew exponentially! I am over the top with the results! If anyone is on the fence about doing this, it's time to go for it! WOW!!!
:LOL:(y)

Thanks Ivan!
And thanks to the members of this forum
 

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#2 ·
Ivans work on this bike, especially the first generation, is without peer.
 
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#3 ·
The flash you have dates back to @2013 and has had 5-6 updates along the way. It's so dialed in it's not even funny. His software lets him see and change sections of the ECU that other tuners don't even know is there. His work is the best money I've spent on motorccyles

I know it's hard to do this, but if you ever have a chance, fill your tank and do some highway riding. Be smooth with your throttle and don't let your speed get above 60 mph.

If you keep the speed down, you'll see 50+ mpg. If you decrease the speed down to 55mph, 60mpg isn't out of the question.
 
#4 ·
Man, I love my 2021 model, but I'm so bummed that Ivan can't/won't make a tune for it. I love seeing these posts! Just wish I could make one myself.
 
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#5 ·
The best modification I have done to any bike ever? Ivans ECU on my 2013 Ninja. Normally I would argue for suspension mods but for his work I make the one exception. No car or motorcycle I have driven has such intuitive throttle response.......like the perfect rheostat for power control.
 
#6 ·
My Ninja always had enough power, but what I hated about it was an annoying stumble that would appear around 1700-2100 rpm and small throttle openings...the area you go through as you leave a stop light or stop sign.

To make matters worse, it wasn't a consistent stumble. Depending on temperature, it might be better or worse.

Ivan cured that with the update that eliminated the power commander. Apparently it was in a part of the ECU where the bike was transitioning from an emissions based table to tables built for proper operation. That's why it was always slightly different. My altitude had a way of making this worse than it was at lower elevations .

The update didn't add any top end power. A Dyno wouldn't have shown the issue. It taught me that there is way more to a flash than just the peak numbers.

If you were paying for a custom tune, it would not have been possible to fix this as Woolich software doesn't allow access to this part of the ECU where the issue was .

It's been years since this was fixed, but I still have to remind myself it's gone.
 
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#8 ·
When modulating power in a slow turn, the bike feels so much more planted. Previously, the choppy power delivery always made me feel like it was going to cause a washout.
The extra oomph in 1st-3rd is very nice, but I gotta agree that the buttery smooth power delivery is the star of the show. Looking forward to seeing what kind of mileage I can wring out on my commute.
Had been focused on airbox/exhaust mods, but now I'm so happy with the power department that I'm now looking at other mods first. I'm really interested in doing some the clutch mod to make my clutch lever easier to pull, and will be switching to a 55 series rear tire as soon as the weather starts cooling down a bit. Next will be a 16t front and 39t rear sprocket and a new chain.
I just love this bike.
 
#9 ·
When modulating power in a slow turn, the bike feels so much more planted. Previously, the choppy power delivery always made me feel like it was going to cause a washout.
The extra oomph in 1st-3rd is very nice, but I gotta agree that the buttery smooth power delivery is the star of the show. Looking forward to seeing what kind of mileage I can wring out on my commute.
Had been focused on airbox/exhaust mods, but now I'm so happy with the power department that I'm now looking at other mods first. I'm really interested in doing some the clutch mod to make my clutch lever easier to pull, and will be switching to a 55 series rear tire as soon as the weather starts cooling down a bit. Next will be a 16t front and 39t rear sprocket and a new chain.
I just love this bike.
You will like the 190/55 tire. It is a noticeable improvement. Don't know what year your bike is but be careful with the sprocket size change. On some of the newer bikes, particularly the ones with IMU, this can cause issues with the TC/ABS.
 
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#10 ·
The clutch upgrade is a very worthwhile upgrade. I thought I would like it for the slip feature, but I e only used that a few times. The highlight is stop-n-go traffic.

If you can find used parts on ebay, look for the clutch with 3 springs that's from a z900 or a newer ninja 1000. A z1000 is ok, too, but it would have to be from overseas.

It was always an expensive mod if you used new parts, but now it's crossed over into insane. The cost of the bike has gone up by only a few thousand dollars but the part prices are about 40-50% more than I had to pay for my clutch parts.

The one cheat I found is to order OEM parts from Webike Japan. Use part number 13087-0583 as an example. That's the most expensive part needed for the conversion.

From Webike, the part is 109.67. If you order the same part from a USA source, the part is 248.37.

If you get your parts list and order from Webike, you can do the conversion for less than I paid back in 2014. The last parts I ordered from them took 4 days to get to my doorstep. They were much faster than my local dealer. If you have issues or questions, they will find someone who speaks English to help.

I would also order the new clutch lever and clutch perch. Maybe even a set of the "new"mirrors from 2014 or newer.

I like my definition of new vs the math that says my new is ten years old. This points to my advanced age, I guess?

 
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#11 ·
The clutch upgrade is a very worthwhile upgrade. I thought I would like it for the slip feature, but I e only used that a few times. The highlight is stop-n-go traffic.

If you can find used parts on ebay, look for the clutch with 3 springs that's from a z900 or a newer ninja 1000. A z1000 is ok, too, but it would have to be from overseas.

It was always an expensive mod if you used new parts, but now it's crossed over into insane. The cost of the bike has gone up by only a few thousand dollars but the part prices are about 40-50% more than I had to pay for my clutch parts.

The one cheat I found is to order OEM parts from Webike Japan. Use part number 13087-0583 as an example. That's the most expensive part needed for the conversion.

From Webike, the part is 109.67. If you order the same part from a USA source, the part is 248.37.

If you get your parts list and order from Webike, you can do the conversion for less than I paid back in 2014. The last parts I ordered from them took 4 days to get to my doorstep. They were much faster than my local dealer. If you have issues or questions, they will find someone who speaks English to help.

I would also order the new clutch lever and clutch perch. Maybe even a set of the "new"mirrors from 2014 or newer.

I like my definition of new vs the math that says my new is ten years old. This points to my advanced age, I guess?

This is great information. Thank you!
I'll hunt for used first, and fall back to webike if I can't procure everything used. 👍
 
#13 · (Edited)
The parts I ordered for my clutch conversion were from the 2015 Versys 1000 the pressure plate and inner hub had the ultra slick and durable Kashima coating. I recognized the surface treatment/coating because my dirt bikes shock and fork have it.

I have thousands of miles on the clutch and it doesn't show any wear. I could return the parts for a refund if I wanted to. The coating is diamond like hard and extremely wear resistant.

Years later I bought a clutch from a z900. I bought it because it was cheap and it had a full set of good clutch plates.

It may not matter, but the z900 clutch didn't have the Kashima coating. With that in mind, if I did another conversion I think I would order the 2014 Versys 1000 parts, from Webike, and hope it had the coated pieces and not the plain aluminum. They may have not coated the 900 parts for cost reduction, or maybe they never needed it?

I know this is me being a horses ***, but I want the coating and it's possible the old Versys parts might still have it?

The only down side it has is that it isn't good for drag racing. The design doesn't like to slip. It's happy when it's opened, or closed.

It never gets talked about because it's buried under a cover, but it is one of the most innovative motorcycle parts ever built. Not only that, but the design eliminates 12-15 pieces as compared to a normal clutch.

They claim the pull is 30% lighter. Mine measured closer to -50%.

Based on what I saw for eBay prices, it looks like everyone knows this is a serious upgrade as the z900 clutches are expensive.
 
#14 ·
The parts I ordered for my clutch conversion were from the 2015 Versys 1000 the pressure plate and inner hub had the ultra slick and durable Kashima coating. I recognized the surface treatment/coating because my dirt bikes shock and fork have it.

I have thousands of miles on the clutch and it doesn't show any wear. I could return the parts for a refund if I wanted to. The coating is diamond like hard and extremely wear resistant.

Years later I bought a clutch from a z900. I bought it because it was cheap and it had a full set of good clutch plates.

It may not matter, but the z900 clutch didn't have the Kashima coating. With that in mind, if I did another conversion I think I would order the 2014 Versys 1000 parts, from Webike, and hope it had the coated pieces and not the plain aluminum. They may have not coated the 900 parts for cost reduction, or maybe they never needed it?

I know this is me being a horses ***, but I want the coating and it's possible the old Versys parts might still have it?

The only down side it has is that it isn't good for drag racing. The design doesn't like to slip. It's happy when it's opened, or closed.

It never gets talked about because it's buried under a cover, but it is one of the most innovative motorcycle parts ever built. Not only that, but the design eliminates 12-15 pieces as compared to a normal clutch.

They claim the pull is 30% lighter. Mine measured closer to -50%.

Based on what I saw for eBay prices, it looks like everyone knows this is a serious upgrade as the z900 clutches are expensive.

Is this the hub I'm looking for?

2017 - 2021 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ZX1000 Engine Clutch Hub / Boss 13087-0583 | eBay
 
#15 · (Edited)
Yes, that will work. That's what you are looking for.

Don't be afraid to order new from Webike. They don't want much more than that for new. If you use their mid priced shipping, DHL will have it on your doorstep in about 3 days.

I think we avoid Kawasaki USA marking up the parts and us tariff if we order from them. It's a good way to cheat the system.
 
#16 ·
Do you have a list of all the parts needed? I'd be the Guinea pig for Webike on this project..
I dont mind buying new parts of the price is reasonable for all..

I'm a little confused on what all I need.

Salvage bikes go for around 1000. I'd get all I need, part out the rest, and could find an IVAN sticker on an ECU if I'm real lucky...
I found a 2019 N1k for $925 buy it now..mostly front end damage. Found a 2020 z900r buy it now for $875 also front end. The N1K looks like the mirrors are good too.
 
#17 ·
Yes, here are the parts you need. The prices are really old, and not accurate. The costs are what I paid, when we did the converting. At that point, I don't believe we knew about the Webike cheat.

13087-0566 Hub-Clutch $207.87

13187-0023 Plate-Clutch Operating $108.47

13089-0024 Plate-Clutch SPG COMP $8.49 (x1)

16007-0711 Seat-Spring (X3) $1.77 $5.31

92145-1630 Spring (X3) $3.56 $10.68

13272-1413 Plate $7.33 (x1)

92154-1116 Bolt, 6x35 (X3) $5.13 $15.39

13089-0023 Plate, Clutch,T 2.3 $8.49 (x1)

13089-1073 2.0 clutch plates...(x3)

11061-0404 clutch cover gasket (x1)

These are the parts you need if you decide to use some of your stock plates. Doing this saves a lot of money and works just as well as ordering new plates does.

You need everything on this list. It might not make sense, now, but it will when you start to assemble.

You might have a leftover 2.0 clutch plate, but it's worth buying just in case you need it to achieve the proper stack height.
 
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#19 ·
Yes, here are the parts you need. The prices are really old, and not accurate. The costs are what I paid, when we did the converting. At that point, I don't believe we knew about the Webike cheat.

13087-0566 Hub-Clutch $207.87

13187-0023 Plate-Clutch Operating $108.47

13089-0024 Plate-Clutch SPG COMP $8.49 (x1)

16007-0711 Seat-Spring (X3) $1.77 $5.31

92145-1630 Spring (X3) $3.56 $10.68

13272-1413 Plate $7.33 (x1)

92154-1116 Bolt, 6x35 (X3) $5.13 $15.39

13089-0023 Plate, Clutch,T 2.3 $8.49 (x1)

13089-1073 2.0 clutch plates...(x3)

11061-0404 clutch cover gasket (x1)

These are the parts you need if you decide to use some of your stock plates. Doing this saves a lot of money and works just as well as ordering new plates does.

You need everything on this list. It might not make sense, now, but it will when you start to assemble.

You might have a leftover 2.0 clutch plate, but it's worth buying just in case you need it to achieve the proper stack height.

Thank You!
This will make it so much easier to source everything! Much appreciated!!!
 
#18 ·
Here's an entire thread where Jay made the parts list and I put pieces together to build this assist slipper clutch.

I find it fascinating that it uses so many existing parts. That isn't common. Usually everything old gets tossed aside and new parts are created.

Please ignore most of what I said. We had no idea if his would work so I mentioned any thoughts or concerns that I had. Those turned out to be non issues.

 
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#22 ·
I did the Ivan’s tune along with full Akrapovic exhaust and Sprint air filter on my 2017. It is so much more bike now, and much more fun to ride. 1 to 1 throttle and no throttle-cut are awesome along with the added power and responsiveness. Your rear tire will suffer more if you ride like I do. I would do these mods over again in a heartbeat.
 
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