[jgiannone]

Help please. I was fiddling with the rear brake light switch on my 2021 1000SX. Now, after returning the adjuster nut to the stock position, the brake light comes on even without any pressure on the pedal. Even if I detach the spring that pulls on the plunger, where there's no pressure at all being applied, the brake light is still on permanently. It is very difficult to see, let alone know what to adjust and how, to make this go back to square one. Does anyone have any clear guidance on this? Thank you in advance.

 

[Brian60]

Try pushing up and down on the plunger with your finger and see if the brake light goes off. If it does then maybe the plunger is sticking and a little lubricant may fix. If it stays on then maybe need a new brake switch. Make sure the front brake lever is not sticking or out of adjustment before you try any of this.

 

[jgiannone]

The plunger clearly retracts all the way into the body of the switch, which you would think would separate the two contacts inside. If the switch were bad, I would think it wouldn’t light at all. There must be something I’m missing here.

 

[rcannon409]

Are you sure it's that switch? The front brake lever will light up the light as well.

 

[jgiannone]

Yes, Im fairly positive its the rear. I never touched the front, and it's only after I spun the rear adjuster around 90 degrees or so, then went back to the original position, that this problem set in. To reiterate, even with the spring detached, and the plunger fully retracted, the light stays on???

 

[rcannon409]

Can you hear the switch click as you open and close it? Mine makes a little bit of noise. You can hear it in a quiet garage.

The next step is going to involve a multi meter. You'll have to use it to see if the switch really is opening and closing. I wouldn't bother with her meter if I couldn't hear this switch "click" as it opens and closes. I know there's more to it than this, but If that switch fails, the rear light defaults to the "brake on" position.

The switch, as well as the front brake switch stops the brake light from being lit up rather than causing it to light up, if that makes any sense?

The switch is the finest switch China can build for .32 cents. It wouldn't surprise me if it is broken . Not that you'll pay .32 for a new one .....that would be Kawasakis cost. We probably pay 24.89.

 

[kenors]

If the rear switch is the same as my '18 there really isn't a click or anything I could feel when it makes contacts. The front switch is a micro-switch and you can hear when it makes contact but the rear one just pulls a a couple contacts together.

• Rarely, a little spark will weld the contacts together. Rap the switch body sharply from the side a few times and see if the light goes out.
• Does the plunger spring back by itself? If not, the switch is broken.
• You said you rotated the switch body. Did the external wires short? Try wiggling the wiring.
• Switch failures can happen even if rare. I would do the simple stuff first like unplug the switch from the wiring harness. That immediately isolates the issue. It also lets you check the switch with a meter but that shouldn't be necessary.

If anything above shows up I'd replace the switch, they're cheap.

 

[rcannon409]

Based on Kawasakis drawing, it doesn't have bullet connectors anymore and isnt the same as our older switches. With an "upgraded" connector, it will be 20.00 more than we ever paid. Especially when it's also involved with cruise control.

The parts name is only 1/2 accurate.

They are calling it the "switch, cruise control cancel" and it connects to the "spring, brake lamp switch" so you have to read between the lines to understand it is used in both stems. The name was probably chosen by the same guy who decided to list this part with the locks and reflectors?

It had to be a guy. Any girl would be above this sort of behavior.

Always look up your own parts. This piece was buried. If it was a busy day at the parts counter, it would be easy to say, "sorry. That part isn't available separately. You will need to bring the bike to the service department."

2020 Kawasaki Ninja 1000SX (ZX1002KLFA) Ignition Switch/Locks/Reflectors | Powersports Warehouse

Shop online for OEM Ignition Switch/Locks/Reflectors parts that fit your 2020 Kawasaki Ninja 1000SX (ZX1002KLFA), search all our OEM Parts or call at (866)849-0658

www.powersportswarehouse.com

 

[jgiannone]

Awesome gents. Thank you very much for your insights. I’ll get back to you as I sort through your options.

 

[doug.headrick]

My brand new 1000sx right (brake) peg got caught on the trailer when I was trying to get it off the trailer. The peg is broken. That is not the problem though. The shield plate sheared and broke off. I successfully removed the peg and removed the bolts holding the sheared plate. My problem is that I cannot separate the shield from the back plate. There is an electrical plug which I cannot remove. Of course being a rookie I did not want to pull too hard for fear of breaking the wiring plug. In addition there is a solenoid of sorts that also keeps the two plates from separating. I'm stumped and don't want to proceed without actually knowing what to do next..

Help from the Gulf coast of Texas..

 

[Brian60]

On the 2020+ bikes, it's a two-part switch. Step on the brake pedal and it connects the circuit to light up the brake lights and also breaks the circuit for the cruise control (#16 on diagram below). Possibly the two connectors for the brake light circuit within the switch shorted together and are permanently connected regardless of the plunger.

Below are the relevant diagrams from the manual. Hope this helps. Let us know what you find out.

 

[Brian60]

My brand new 1000sx right (brake) peg got caught on the trailer when I was trying to get it off the trailer. The peg is broken. That is not the problem though. The shield plate sheared and broke off. I successfully removed the peg and removed the bolts holding the sheared plate. My problem is that I cannot separate the shield from the back plate. There is an electrical plug which I cannot remove. Of course being a rookie I did not want to pull too hard for fear of breaking the wiring plug. In addition there is a solenoid of sorts that also keeps the two plates from separating. I'm stumped and don't want to proceed without actually knowing what to do next..

Help from the Gulf coast of Texas..

Please post some pictures. It's hard to know what happened from just the written description.

 

[rcannon409]

My brand new 1000sx right (brake) peg got caught on the trailer when I was trying to get it off the trailer. The peg is broken. That is not the problem though. The shield plate sheared and broke off. I successfully removed the peg and removed the bolts holding the sheared plate. My problem is that I cannot separate the shield from the back plate. There is an electrical plug which I cannot remove. Of course being a rookie I did not want to pull too hard for fear of breaking the wiring plug. In addition there is a solenoid of sorts that also keeps the two plates from separating. I'm stumped and don't want to proceed without actually knowing what to do next..

Help from the Gulf coast of Texas..

Doug, show us a picture when you can. It's hard to follow along when we dont know the exact name of the part that's broken. If the part is not in this picture, it will be in the section that shows "frame fittings"

2020 Kawasaki Ninja 1000SX (ZX1002KLF) Footrests | Kawasaki Parts Warehouse

Shop online for OEM Footrests parts that fit your 2020 Kawasaki Ninja 1000SX (ZX1002KLF), search all our OEM Parts or call at 618-464-3896

www.kawasakipartswarehouse.com

 

[doug.headrick]

Again, still new to all of this but here are the pics. I need to separate the front broken plate from the rear plate. My issue is the plug, ist it a plug and can it just be pulled apart? And the , what looks to be the brake light solenoid, how do I remove it?
Thanks to so many who are so helpful. Pictures attached.

 

[Brian60]

That's your Rear Brake Light/Electronic Cruise Control Cancel Switch (see the images I posted above). The wire colors match what is in the image. You can also see that plunger that we were referring to above.

The connector is not in the picture you posted. The connection is probably up in the bike somewhere. You look for a connector with Violet, Violet/Yellow, Red/Black and Blue wires. The wires from the brake switch to that connector are Yellow/White, Yellow/Black, White, and Black (see the digaram).

That switch does look like it has some damage to the outside but it may still work fine. You have to reconnect the spring and new pedal and see if it works.

From the link RC posted above, the part number is:

27010A SWITCH,CRUISE CONTROL CANCEL

27010-0923

$28.61

 

[doug.headrick]

I believe all hydraulics and electronics are working fine. The right peg got caught and broke off the plate it was mounted on. My only issue is the broken plate is connected to a plate behind it. I have to get the solenoid and the associated plug that is attached unplugged to separate the broken front plat separated. The new part to replace the broken plate arrives tomorrow. If I can separate the broken plate, it should just be a reassemble. The plug does not seem to want to unplug, afraid of breaking it and the solenoid locking nut is very tight. Again afraid of breaking it.

Thank you far all your preceding help. Grateful

 

[Brian60]

I believe all hydraulics and electronics are working fine. The right peg got caught and broke off the plate it was mounted on. My only issue is the broken plate is connected to a plate behind it. I have to get the solenoid and the associated plug that is attached unplugged to separate the broken front plat separated. The new part to replace the broken plate arrives tomorrow. If I can separate the broken plate, it should just be a reassemble. The plug does not seem to want to unplug, afraid of breaking it and the solenoid locking nut is very tight. Again afraid of breaking it.

Thank you far all your preceding help. Grateful

I'll take a look when I get home but looks like all you have to do is loosen the lock nut and it appears there are two little tabs that you squeeze together and the brake switch assembly should pull out of the bracket.

 

[rcannon409]

That lock nut is more like a "height adjust nut" just pinching the two, small tabs will release the switch.

Motorcycle parts names are difficult since most parts have made up names that may or may not make any sense.

 

[doug.headrick]

Thank you, I will give that a try. I assume the small tabs are the ones around the threads. I will let you know. I am glad I asked before proceeding and so grateful for the advice.

BTW, I installed my Freedom 4 x comm sys in my Shoei rf1400 helmet. Easy install. Also easy install on the Quadlock phone mount. Hope my part arrives today so that I can re assemble the peg and rear brake pedal.

Ready to ride this bad boy.

 

[Newone]

Again, still new to all of this but here are the pics. I need to separate the front broken plate from the rear plate. My issue is the plug, ist it a plug and can it just be pulled apart? And the , what looks to be the brake light solenoid, how do I remove it?
Thanks to so many who are so helpful. Pictures attached. View attachment 36025 View attachment 36026 View attachment 36027 View attachment 36028 View attachment 36027
View attachment 36028
View attachment 36025
View attachment 36026

Wow...not good