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So here's a different oil debate. At my 600 mile check up the deal put conventional oil in it, not synthetic. He told me I should go with conventional for the first 5,000 miles, which seems kind of long to me. Considering the high RPM's I would think the rings could get broken in pretty quick.

Other views?
 

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I used to change the oil at 100 and 500 with conventional, and then synthetic at 1000 on my previous bikes. With my 1000, I changed it to synthetic at 600 miles. It's now at 3100 miles and I plan to do the second oil change change next week.
 

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Just logically think about it. If one oil was extra slippery it would raise all kinds of **** with your clutch.

The synthetic after 5000 miles is an old wives tail that sounds reasonable so it keeps getting repeated. Put it in, or dont, but the mieliage wont make a bit of difference.
 

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I know of new vehicles that come with synthetic oil already in them. For vehicles that don't, I usually switch to synthetic on the first oil change. For the N1K, it will be done on the second oil change since my dealer threw in an "oil change in a bag" (gallon of GN4 & filter)with the purchase of my bike.
 

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I changed to Dino Rotella T at mile 0, switched back to syn T6 at 2K. Dealer puts syn in during assy.
 

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I run only natural oil but I ride often and change it every 1k to 2k miles. 55k on my bike and runs like it did new.
 

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Na, synthetic. It is a high RPM & heat engine. High compression. Standard is fine, synthetic equals performance. You can even mix, if you want. I changed oil on the Orion shuttle & aircrafts, with standard oil in cans, like the old way, where a can opener/popper is used. If you think, we used plastic bottles & synthetic, you are dead wrong. Either is fine, just change it periodically, yearly or when it gets dirty.
 

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If you want to run synthetic oil, you can use it on the first oil change. The major advantage of using synthetic vs regular oil is extended oil changes. Synthetic resists molecular shearing better and will not break down as quickly and therefore will protect your engine better and longer. Just be certain to use motorcycle specific oil. The friction modifiers found in some energy conserving oils can cause clutch slippage. However the stuff is not cheap. I pay ten bucks a quart for Mobil one Racing 4T.
 

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Newbie 2017 NIK

If you want to run synthetic oil, you can use it on the first oil change. The major advantage of using synthetic vs regular oil is extended oil changes. Synthetic resists molecular shearing better and will not break down as quickly and therefore will protect your engine better and longer. Just be certain to use motorcycle specific oil. The friction modifiers found in some energy conserving oils can cause clutch slippage. However the stuff is not cheap. I pay ten bucks a quart for Mobil one Racing 4T.

I just purchased a 2017 Ninja 1000 leftover. It is winter here in New England and they already put salt down on the roads so I won't be riding until spring. This is my first sports bike and have only ridden cruisers until now. I have 20 miles on my bike (From The Ride Home From The Dealer) Since I like to do all the maintenance on the bike myself, what type of oil and filter do you recommend? I use Rotella T6 on my 2002 Kawasaki Mean Streak.


Thanks,


Bc2
 

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I just purchased a 2017 Ninja 1000 leftover. It is winter here in New England and they already put salt down on the roads so I won't be riding until spring. This is my first sports bike and have only ridden cruisers until now. I have 20 miles on my bike (From The Ride Home From The Dealer) Since I like to do all the maintenance on the bike myself, what type of oil and filter do you recommend? I use Rotella T6 on my 2002 Kawasaki Mean Streak.
Thanks,
Bc2
I use Mobil 1 4T for motorcycles. But now that I've installed an exhaust system without a cat, I may run Rotella T6 (Jaso MA rated) on my next oil change, next year. I've heard that Rotella T6 could eventually "poissen" the cat, if you have one. There is lot's of debate on the web on using diesel type oil in gasoline engines, or not...
 

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I use Mobil 1 4T for motorcycles. But now that I've installed an exhaust system without a cat, I may run Rotella T6 (Jaso MA rated) on my next oil change, next year. I've heard that Rotella T6 could eventually "poissen" the cat, if you have one. There is lot's of debate on the web on using diesel type oil in gasoline engines, or not...

What kind of debate? It's JASO MA/MA2 certified. What more could you want? If it could damage a motorcycle engine in any way it wouldn't meet the certification. Are people dumb enough to think because it's a diesel oil Shell puts diesel in it? What exactly is supposed to poison (poissen) the cat? Or the dog? I guess oil myths will continue for the next 100 years, it seems like people the common sense level of people just keeps taking a dive.
 

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600 miles out with the conventional and in with Liqui-Moly synth and OEM filter. My buddy who has a shop sells it to me at his cost and it was like half the price of Motul 300v. Only reason I run synth is to extend the interval between changes.

I mean I had a '86 GSX-R1100 streetfighter I used as a messenger bike and ran it to 173,000 miles on Castrol GTX and Fram oils filters from pep boys.

Over half a million miles on over a dozen other bikes than that Gixxer, I just don't think it matters that much. Especially for as much as most people ride their bikes and as long as they keep them.

Just make sure it meets minimum OE spec oil change it regularly ride more worry less.
 
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What kind of debate? It's JASO MA/MA2 certified. What more could you want? If it could damage a motorcycle engine in any way it wouldn't meet the certification. Are people dumb enough to think because it's a diesel oil Shell puts diesel in it? What exactly is supposed to poison (poissen) the cat? Or the dog? I guess oil myths will continue for the next 100 years, it seems like people the common sense level of people just keeps taking a dive.
...and so the debate begins...
 
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