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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone! Finally nice enough for me to ride today! It was my first time out since I changed the oil when I winterized the bike. I was unpleased to find that my oil pressure red indicator light was still on by the time I had got to the end of the block (DOH! - Guess I was just to happy to be on the road lol).

Anyways, after looking this up it is actually pretty common on our bikes due to the position of the filter and what not. Morale of the story is, if this happens to you don't fret. I guess our bike has a problem priming the filter after an oil change sometimes and you can develop an air lock within it.

To fix it, you simply crack the oil filter loose until a little oil dribbles out. This lets any trapped air get out. Problem solved, light out.

There are a bunch of other threads on this on other forums, just thought Id post it here incase one of you come across it and freak out lol.
Sport-Touring.Net - Ninja 1000 oil change - Oil light question
 

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Some guys fill their filters with fresh oil when installing to make sure this doesn't happen. What filter did you use? I'm a fan of K&N because of the welded nut on front.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I used regualar kawi one. I always try to fill my filter and oil up the rubber, but tough for it to stay in there since it gets installed horizontally. But yes that should help
 

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You can do everythign perfectly, and still have it happen on a Ninja 1000. Today I'll say I've had better luck doing the filter first, then draining the oil, but I'm not ready to call it a permanent solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's what I hear rcannon. I think the answer is no, but is it really starving the engine from oil for that little while, or is it just so happens to be air where the sensor is?
 

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I just did my first oil change at about 400 miles. Drained the oil took off the filter then poured a little new oil in the new filter. Replaced the filter and oil. Started up. Light stayed on for about 2.37 seconds. All is well.

As an aside...that filter is in a really nice spot! Easy to get to for a full faired motorcycle. MUCH better than my zx6r.
 

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OIL Changes

I'll probably use kawasaki dino oil 10x40 and a k&n oil filter for maintenance...question...I know what the torque value recommended on the filter is..but..secure hand tight should be fine...right? I guess I don't remember what 13 foot lbs of torque feels like in my hand

Regards
 

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Yea, dont go nuts torquing anythign related to this job. Torque figures apply to dry fasteners...So, if using a torque wrench, you'll need to make sure the drain bolt is clean and dry, as well as the threads.,,impossible.

Common cents.

]Are the factory filters still a nightmare to remove? My original needed a massive set of pliers to break loose.
 

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My first filter change was difficult as the factory really tightened the darn thing. That's why I use K&N filters, the attached 17mm nut makes it easy.
 

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When you change your oil, the oil pump sometimes doesn't get enough oil into it when the engine is filled back up. Thus the oil pump just spins in a pocket of air when you start it up & it doesn't pump any oil. This is called "Cavitation". Get rid of the air and the light should go out. Aka as burping your bike. Open up the oil filler cap. Turn the oil filter to release air from the oil system. Its a possibilty thats your problem.
 

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When you change your oil, the oil pump sometimes doesn't get enough oil into it when the engine is filled back up. Thus the oil pump just spins in a pocket of air when you start it up & it doesn't pump any oil. This is called "Cavitation". Get rid of the air and the light should go out. Aka as burping your bike. Open up the oil filler cap. Turn the oil filter to release air from the oil system. Its a possibilty thats your problem.
I read this works well on another N1K forum.
 

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Your not alone with this issue. Ironically, after 18000 miles now I haven't had any issues with my oil changes. I drain oil, fill up with clean oil, remove old filter, fill new oil filter with oil and then install it. Start bike and let it run and no light. Maybe I just get lucky though.
 

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Just changed my oil by the book. 4 qts. oil, primed the oil filter with oil, "burped" the engine with removing the oil filler plug and loosening the oil filter. The engine oil light remains on. Any feedback?
 

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I'll probably use kawasaki dino oil 10x40 and a k&n oil filter for maintenance...question...I know what the torque value recommended on the filter is..but..secure hand tight should be fine...right? I guess I don't remember what 13 foot lbs of torque feels like in my hand

Regards
The Service Manual calls for light hand tightening initially, followed by the burp procedure, then tightening more than hand tight - 17 ft lb. There is actually a warning in the manual that hand tightening is insufficient.
 

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Just changed my oil by the book. 4 qts. oil, primed the oil filter with oil, "burped" the engine with removing the oil filler plug and loosening the oil filter. The engine oil light remains on. Any feedback?
Talked to the Kawi tech from where I got the bike, sure enough this is a common occurrence. On his advice I started the engine, loosened the filter, got oil dribble, shut off the engine and tightened the filter. Problem solved. Kawasaki needs to list this in the owners manual, it's unnerving for new owners. I've changed all my many bike's oil/filters. Both my Aprilia and Suzuki have horizontal mount filters and neither one has this issue.
 

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2nd oil change and stupid light staying on. did not happen on 1st. also filled the filter. so i will try to loosen the filter.:mad:
thanks for the solution:D
 

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This happens on my 2013 as well.
Do we know if any of the newer (i.e 14-16) models also suffer from this affliction?

Rob
 

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My 15 has 2 out of three. I just leave the drain pan under it now.
 
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