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Discussion Starter #1
Have a 2015 I bought as a new leftover December 2018. It has 600 miles so I'll be doing the first oil change soon. Would you recommend changing the coolant and brake fluid since it's technically going on 5 years old or should they be checked/replaced at the recommended mileage in the manual since they're also technically new?
 

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Definitely change the brake fluid. Coolant might be okay but I would change that as well since it is an easy job.
 

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Brake fluid is 3 years past due, I would flush asap.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Does anyone know what size bleeder valves are on the N1k calipers? Looking online it seems like a very easy process.
 

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You dont need anything but an 8mm wrench, and some clear, vinyl tubing.

I would do just whats suggested, and for sure do the coolant. Its very easy to do on this bike, so why not do it. I just pop the hose loose. The hose on the left side of the bike. Its also 4 yrs overdue for Ivans flash.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You dont need anything but an 8mm wrench, and some clear, vinyl tubing.

I would do just whats suggested, and for sure do the coolant. Its very easy to do on this bike, so why not do it. I just pop the hose loose. The hose on the left side of the bike. Its also 4 yrs overdue for Ivans flash.
Appreciate the advice. Is the coolant just a simple drain and refill? Is there a particular type/brand you recommend? The manual just says use a permanent type coolant.
 

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While researching this for my change I found where Kawasaki recommended "Green coolant". Strang for them to list it that way but green coolant is standard Glycol based and what I went back with.
As far as drain and refill... yes I would say with the low milage your not so far behind that you need to flush every drop of old coolant from the entire system.
 

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I got sick of having different coolants in the garage, so I converted everything over to the Zerex asian for Toyotas. The bike does not hold that much, and its difficult to drain much more than half of it. You can get that in the blue, or pink color.

I drained, and refilled 2 or 3 times using the new antifreeze. No water, or flushing stuff as it gets cold here and i cant take a chance on leaving water behind. As soon as the drained antifreeze looked like what I put in, I stopped. Wal Mart has about 42 different brands, so I mention the Toyota stuff just because its worked well. I think i did this 4 years back. Its been a while.

I know i did not use 2 complete gallons. I had some left over. Now, on a yearly basis, i drain all that I can, and top up with the same.
 

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Appreciate the advice. Is the coolant just a simple drain and refill? Is there a particular type/brand you recommend? The manual just says use a permanent type coolant.
I would highly recommend using the Pro Honda Coolant. It is specifically designed for aluminum engined bikes and bike water pump seals that can't tolerate Silica Aluminumum Inhibitors, which is present in 90% of coolant in the aftermarket. This Coolant is widely available at any Honda dealership, or online, including Amazon. I've tried other Coolant, and have had experience in water pump seals failing sooner from ordinary coolants that claim they're designed for aluminum motorcycle engines. Including stuff one can buy from Cycle Gear!

Draining and replacing the coolant on the N1k is one of the easiest jobs ever. One bolt to drain. You just have to remove the right fairing to for easier access to the drain bolt, and the left fairing to access the radiator fill cap. After you drain, replace drain bolt AND replace washer for that bolt with a new one, fill radiator to near the filler neck...slowly....start engine, bring the coolant to temp, keep a close eye on the coolant that will rise up over that filler neck, rev engine a bit a few times to get rid of any air bubbles. Done. Don't forget to clean and refill the reservoir with fresh coolant too.
 

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Modern coolants dont contain Silica Aluminumum Inhibitors. All the brands mention this "silica" as if its going to jump out and grab you, but very few use it, anymore. You would have to seek it out.....you can find coolant that does, but its not common, at all. It may have been, in 1975, or so, when Honda started selling its Honda labeled coolant.

The Honda stuff is good. You can buy it in gallon jugs for much less than the small containers. I dont know if wal mart has it, but my local Napa does.

Its really hard to choose a "wrong" antifreeze, anymore, and anything marked with the "Asian" label is for sure going to be ok in your motorcycles.
 

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Coolant is good until someone brings up Engine Ice and tries to convince everyone about its magical properties...

Next best is the Evans coolant. It has to be awesome because it wont boil until the 300 degree range.
 

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I agree....hell I use Prestone, lol. There is no secret sauce for most of them and almost all modern car engines are aluminum block just like bikes so its not an issue.
 

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It is confusing, though, when you show up to buy coolant and there are 75 different choices, and all show different applications and warnings.

They scare everyone with the Silicate content . We need to avoid it...when it damn hard to find.

We need to open a store that sells silica and gluten.
 

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After our experience with engine ice (corrosion), never again! Great if you change it twice a year but it is not coolant you wanna leave in more than a year.

We've done the same ang switched to Toyota Pink. I want to try Evans but I have not seen any conversion center near me. I heard it is pretty sensitive to aster even just a little bit.
 

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After our experience with engine ice (corrosion), never again! Great if you change it twice a year but it is not coolant you wanna leave in more than a year.

We've done the same ang switched to Toyota Pink. I want to try Evans but I have not seen any conversion center near me. I heard it is pretty sensitive to aster even just a little bit.
Hmmm...I have engine ice in my bike now.....
 

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I used Engine Ice with no issue, in my dirt bike, but it never stayed in for long. I did know people who claimed they found clumps, or chunks, after using it for extended time.

Evans is all about a high boiling point, and it actually a very low-average coolant. Its like the total opposite of water, Water is the very best coolant, but it freezes and leads to corrosion. With Evans, a person has to remember "not boiling" is not the same as "cooling really well" Concrete wont boil, but it wont cool very well, either. I used it in my dirtbike, one day. The stuff expands like crazy, uses a non pressurized radiator cap, and a engine will run noticeably hotter with it in place.

Notice there is an advantage there. No pressure. If you had a hole in a radiator, it was easy to patch because it did not hold pressure. Also, it would not leak as fast (no pressure).....great for the baja 500, but a poor choice for everyday use. Also, if you had a leak, the remaining stuff would not boil away. Some evans was better than no water.
 

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I agree....hell I use Prestone, lol. There is no secret sauce for most of them and almost all modern car engines are aluminum block just like bikes so its not an issue.

It's not the aluminum that has a problem with Silica Inhibitors in coolant. The SI is what makes them agree to Aluminum. It's the Water Pump seals that don't agree with SI. It leads to premature water pump seal failures. I didn't think it was still a thing until I went through two new water pumps with my VFR800 because of seal failure. I was using the CG Maxima Coolant instead of the Pro Honda Coolant.

Maybe Kawasaki water pump seals are resistant to Silica Inhibitors. Maybe only Honda water pump seals are not. I don't know for sure. But hey it's only coolant right? If you've never had issues with the brand you're using, then it's all good.
 
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