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2015 Kawasaki Ninja 1000
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
That little disk fell into the worst space ever .....
Can't get but one finger in there cause the space is so tight, and it's in .....and down at an angle that cramps my whole hand in like, 12 seconds......

Coincidentally, had an ex that did the same thing 馃槀

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Fixed my shift linkage issue finally .... Shortened the input length, swapped pegs with black ones from a similar rearset .....

Resets shifter back to original position on downshift so I no longer have to lift it with my toe to change a gear, and seems to have resolved hitting the kickstand spring on downshift as well ........

Previous owner must have had this issue because when I took the shifter off, the whole back side has a grove shaved into the metal where it's been hitting the stand spring and worn a grove into it.

Will probably buy a whole new set anyways .....
Got some lights going now, temp fixation until after the fairs are back on and I see what space I have to work between ....

Not too bad looking though

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The back section is still mounted incorrectly. It's backwards. You won't need additional hardware to correct the issue?

Even if you buy something new, it will still need correct assembly to work properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
The back section is still mounted incorrectly. It's backwards. You won't need additional hardware to correct the issue?

Even if you buy something new, it will still need correct assembly to work properly.
Back section mounted backwards?
Not sure what you're referring to .....
What back section of what side?
Shift side or brake side .... Ive honestly not really paid much attention so not sure what you're meaning
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Nevermind, I see what you mean now ..... The current setup is how I received it and haven't changed it ....
I'll flip it around and see how that is
Thanks man, good looking out I never noticed that!
馃憡馃

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That's it. Switch yours to where it looks like the picture. This will help with the play in the linkage.

At that point, we hope the rearset was designed to leave the shift lever in a decent position .

I can't tell 100%, but I think it's possible that there is a second spot to mount the shift lever.

If you build the shift rod like the picture, I think it will end up just about right as far as length once you use the threaded hole that's just behind the one it uses now.
 

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The shift rod is the correct length when the pivot points, and the joints are parallel. We can use my c14 as an example. Pretend I had the skill to make the tape straight.....

The angle doesn't have to be 90 degrees as long as the front and rear are the same. It can be off by a small amount. Mine isnt perfect but I had to deal with that to get the shift lever low enough.

If it's off by much more than what I have here, either the downshift or upshift will be off. If that's screwed bad enough it tears up the transmission.
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Here we are without the tape. You can see my shift rod should be 3-4 threads shorter, but if I did that, the lever position would be off. No choice with the stock rearsets and zero options. My only option is to move the shift link, motor side, back one notch. I trd that, but it but that is too much in the opposite direction

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I'll look at it, but it's entirely possible that it's backwards because these are elcheapo rear sets, and installing as should be puts the linkage rod at too much an angle ..... I'll know more in the next day or so ..... I'm out on a recce night op at the moment and not able to work on it 馃槈 ......

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Cheap often means they don't design them. My fake Rizoma rearsets are copies and I suspect yours are copied of a legit brand

Even if not, the rear joint wouldn't mount that way. The rod itself doesn't need to be straight. The important thing is those joints are parallel . You'll see. It will fit and work much better.

Learn as much as you can about this set before you buy something else. The expensive rearsets have mistakes or omissions too. Lighttech is a perfect example. A 700.00 set of rearsets that uses a pressure switch tail light. That isn't acceptible. Even your rearsets have that beat.

I say that like Mr big spender.....I don't mean it that way. I think your rearsets sell for 99.00. Mine were 129.00
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Yeah I had vortex on my 6r and my GSXR both so I'm familiar with the expensive ones as well. I'll get these flipped around and see how they do, I might change the heel plate out for black at minimum eventually who knows.

I'm like a woman with shoes when it comes to my bike's look 馃ぃ
 

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My rearsets are knock off Rizoma. The real Rizoma parts will fir this rearset. What I really noticed is how much effort I had to put in to get them to work. No instructions, but mine were Rizoma copies, so that was not an issue. I don't like the idea of knock off parts, but I had to try them for such little money. I would have never paid the 650.00 for real Rizoma. You can move the pegs, but not enough to where it really changes the feel . The lack of rubber mounted pieces is nice. The seat to peg increase is from the rubber topped pegs being removed more so than a new peg location

My shift rod was the correct size, but it was threaded aluminum. It may not have lasted one shift before bending. I had to replace it with a stainless steel piece I found on eBay.

I also had to source my own hardware. Maybe that wasn't their fault as my rearsets we're sold for the z1000 and not the Ninja.

Once I did all that, they were ok, but there wasn't one second of this process where I felt like I was dealing with a quality product.

They are an upgrade vs stock. With the shifter and brake lever mounted with bearings, they work really well.

Maybe you can Google search and see who your set is copied from? I doubt the design is original. Who knows? Maybe your knock off guy was fired from my Jisoma rearset facility and built his own?
 

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Had one in my zx6r based on someone's recommendation. I've never tested this battery so I don't know what it's running at, but I'll assume the factory battery is too low this the problem.

I'll report back tomorrow after work with findings.
Thanks everyone for your input it's appreciated.

I was also looking at this one, seems interesting:

Antigravity ATZ-10 Performance Lithium Motorcycle Powersport Battery with Built-In Jump Starting.

I just put an Antigravity in my CBR1000RR the other day. Too soon to know much about it long term. But it has some nice features and is cheaper than a Shorai, which I have had on a couple of previous bikes.
 

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My shorai will be 10 yrs old, in Feb.

Jjsz does the antigravity battery have the balancing port? If it does, this little battery test tool is cool. eBay has the best price, but if you want one faster, Amazon has them.

I was able to use the cord from my shorai charger to hook it up. It lets you see how the three cells are balanced and gives other useful info. My shorai still shows at 96% and the cells are still in balance. If it was a cordless drill, we might have reduced run time as compared to new, but in this application, who cares? We only need that 1/2 second to start.

 

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My shorai will be 10 yrs old, in Feb.

Jjsz does the antigravity battery have the balancing port? If it does, this little battery test tool is cool. eBay has the best price, but if you want one faster, Amazon has them.

I was able to use the cord from my shorai charger to hook it up. It lets you see how the three cells are balanced and gives other useful info. My shorai still shows at 96% and the cells are still in balance. If it was a cordless drill, we might have reduced run time as compared to new, but in this application, who cares? We only need that 1/2 second to start.

I鈥檓 not familiar with a balancing port. It looks like it does. Here is an excerpt from their site鈥

The ATZ-7 Re-Start Battery is an extremely lightweight and high-power Lithium-Ion replacement for the heavy lead/acid battery found in many motorcycles including most every Enduro bike on the market. Additionally, the ATZ7-RS offers the first FULL Battery Management System (BMS) found on a Powersport Battery and includes low-voltage cut-off, over-discharge protections, over-charge protections, and thermal protections with real-time lithium-ion cell balancing. If you want to also track your battery status via Bluetooth, you can use the Lithium Battery Tracker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I just put an Antigravity in my CBR1000RR the other day. Too soon to know much about it long term. But it has some nice features and is cheaper than a Shorai, which I have had on a couple of previous bikes.
Yeah ultimately wasn't the battery so I don't need to trade it out
 

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I didn't know about the balance port, but apparently it's a thing on this type of battery.

My shorai has never needed balancing, so this was just for fun. It sound's like the balance port might have an industry wide spec for the cord it uses? My shorai charger would probably plug in to your battery.

It would be cool to see how balanced your brand new battery is. I was never able to see mine until it was 8 years old, so I have no idea how good it was in the beginning .

The more I read about this new battery technology, I think this is how we evaluate and take care of these batteries (ignore them) rather than battery tenders and a worry about keeping it 100% charged . Mine stores at @80% charged and it just sits there...for months, unattended.

My advise would be to read the instructions. These batteries are awesome if they are treated right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Well, finally got around to some stuff .....

Got me some new LEDs that are pretty cool. Snaps right onto the kawasucki H7 baseplate, and held in with retention spring, with dust covers on.

I just put H7 on both sides for now till I get an H1 high. Major improvement ...... Took off the previous owners tank pad and got some of my own, stripped off the "1000" fairing stickers, and put in some dark smoke led turn signals, and also got some green halo fog lights but haven't installed them yet.

Had the underglow kit, but ripped it out cause I didn't like it, I need something more modular, so I have some 10mm round green LEDs I'm going to drop in the forward air intakes 馃槒

New tail bag, tank bag, and thigh bag as well.
Yes I know my plate is showing, I just don't care.
You wanna steal my identity and live with this credit score, be my guest 馃ぃ馃ぃ

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
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Got that shift link flipped, lever still hitting the link on downshift, and it's now skipping right over neutral unless I'm full stop. Can't bump into neutral and free roll now.

If I lengthen the shift rod, the lever scrapes it and won't drop down gears without force, obviously I don't need to explain why that's bad.

Pretty sure they had it flipped for that reason, because when I removed the rod and bolt, the bolt going into the back of the rod has a slight bend in it, so I can tell whoever had this before me forced it.

They rode like that for 3500 miles, check out the back side of the lever hidden from view until you flip it over 馃槀

They actually shaved the lever and wore it down

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