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2015 Kawasaki Ninja 1000
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a new quad lock wireless head, some mirror risers, handlebar extensions for mounting some stuff, some rim decals.

Still waiting on some ball ram mounts and clams for the GoPro, and considering a 360 camera, haven't decided yet.

I want to get some LED lights, but there's so many damn things to read, and almost all the threads here with links are old and dead.

I think I'm just going to grab some H7's drop in Sylvania but haven't decided.

Any recent active links or recommendations are appreciated

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Looks good! I'd love to get a gopro myself. Just can't justify spending the money.

I'd recommend the R-Gaza Crash Bars if you feel the need. They're a pain in the *** to install, but great protection.
 

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2021 Ninja 1000SX
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Not a bad list to start with, if your looking for lights that do not look like some wart on the bike, check out the fork light kit from Denali. I have been looking at them myself. Link Below. Also, make sure you order the B6/DRL Universal Waterproof Flush Mounting Kit with it.

Denali Fork Light


 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah I was looking at fork mount lights also, but as soon as I install some and leave the factory headlight bulb in, it will look all old and yellow in comparison.

I got the wireless charger head installed Saturday, but I have a question someone here may know:

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As stated above, I purchased the 12V/USB adapter for the charging head also from quad lock, which is what it's currently hooked up to, via SAE to battery.

It states in auto mode for the selector switch, it will automatically kick on/off at 13.5V, but when I have it on auto with the bike running, it doesn't kick on so assuming the battery isn't hitting the trigger voltage point. I need to test the battery, cause if it never hits that threshold it's pretty useless in auto mode.

It's stated outputs are:
5V/3A
9V/2A
12V/1.5A

Trouble is, the three options are ON/OFF/AUTO and no way to select the voltage out of those three options, nor a current operating voltage without having a voltmerer handy. I'd have to dig around in a box to find mine, and even then doubt ill have charged batteries for it, just like every old remote control youll find in a box.

When I saw the charging head not kicking on even with the bike running, I tested the converter on a USB device ...... My GoPro 10 .......

I'm going to hardwire it, so I just unplugged the charging head from the SAE on the battery, and plugged it into my camera without a battery.

The reason why, is because for some dumb *** reason in 2022 we can build a nanobot that can be injected under your skin as a subdermal implant, but gopro can't figure out how to charge a damn battery while the camera is recording a video ...... 😒

Anyways, the GoPro was on its period and started complaining that it needs to be connected to a device that has 5V2A ability .......

Now if these two eyes in my head are functioning properly, right above I just posted the voltages directly from the quadlock device box, and based on that, this thing should be powering my gopro without issue ........ By the first two stated voltages.

So in a nutshell, the money paid for the 12V 🐂 💩 converter was wasted, because this things not doing what it's being marketed and pimped for.

I won't know anything till putting the bike battery on a tester.
 

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Yeah I was looking at fork mount lights also, but as soon as I install some and leave the factory headlight bulb in, it will look all old and yellow in comparison.

I got the wireless charger head installed Saturday, but I have a question someone here may know:

It's stated outputs are:
5V/3A
9V/2A
12V/1.5A

Trouble is, the three options are ON/OFF/AUTO and no way to select the voltage out of those three options, nor a current operating voltage without having a voltmerer handy. I'd have to dig around in a box to find mine, and even then doubt ill have charged batteries for it, just like every old remote control youll find in a box.
That's because charging options are built right into the USB specifications and are automatically negotiated between the charger and device being charged. An older device that can't use the higher charging voltages gets the standard 5V at (in this case) up to 3A. Other devices may have a "fast charging" mode that uses the higher voltages and they will tell this to the charger.

Not sure why the GoPro and your charger aren't happy with each other. My first suspicion would be a connection somewhere but you'll have to get a meter to check that out. I'd plug in my phone and see if it sees a charge. If it does, it's the GoPro. If not, it's the charger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's because charging options are built right into the USB specifications and are automatically negotiated between the charger and device being charged. An older device that can't use the higher charging voltages gets the standard 5V at (in this case) up to 3A. Other devices may have a "fast charging" mode that uses the higher voltages and they will tell this to the charger.

Not sure why the GoPro and your charger aren't happy with each other. My first suspicion would be a connection somewhere but you'll have to get a meter to check that out. I'd plug in my phone and see if it sees a charge. If it does, it's the GoPro. If not, it's the charger.
I figured the convertor was autosensing with a stepdown regulator or stepdown relay built into it since there's no way to select individual output.

The charger is fine, and the convertor works fine in the on position, it just isn't working on the auto setting as I previously mentioned which I presume is related to battery voltage which I will check tomorrow after work when I get her out for a spin.

The charging head uses super fast charging, which is because of the elevated voltage ability of the charger AND USB converter cable, which is why I'm confused with the GoPro 10 not sensing high enough voltage to run without a battery because it clearly outputs enough.

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If it didn't, super fast wouldn't be happening at all. It would only do fast charge which if I recall correctly is 5V/2.4A -9V, as Samsung's super fast is 11V45W

Everyone has different ideas, like Samsung, oppo, apple, Qualcomm....... Super fast, turbo, quick charge, adaptive quick charge, turbo pow, dash charge, warp charge etc etc etc ...... There's no real across the board standard nomenclature and all they do is confuse a consumer.

I'm a systems admin and an IT guy, but not so much an electrician or wiring/voltage/amperage guy.
I have a basic surface level understanding of how to not shock the piss out of myself and roast my nuts like it's a Christmas cookout.

Ultimately if it gets on my nerves too bad, I have 2 socket usb-c PD outlets I can install on the cowling under the guage cluster, I just need a step bit to make the hole.
 

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If you needed higher overall Voltage, you might consider a Shorai battery. Mine will be 10 yrs old, in February, and still operates around 14.2 v when the bike is running. That is according to my super amazing 7.99 USB plug I bought from Amazon. I believe this may have been more like 14.3 when it was new. The battery has aged, but not much.

With a standard battery, the highest I ever saw was 12.8.

If you buy a Shorai type battery, don't trust most info you will see about them. Read the owners manual and it explains how and why this battery needs to be treated differently than what we are conditioned to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
If you needed higher overall Voltage, you might consider a Shorai battery. Mine will be 10 yrs old, in February, and still operates around 14.2 v when the bike is running. That is according to my super amazing 7.99 USB plug I bought from Amazon. I believe this may have been more like 14.3 when it was new. The battery has aged, but not much.

With a standard battery, the highest I ever saw was 12.8.

If you buy a Shorai type battery, don't trust most info you will see about them. Read the owners manual and it explains how and why this battery needs to be treated differently than what we are conditioned to do.
Had one in my zx6r based on someone's recommendation. I've never tested this battery so I don't know what it's running at, but I'll assume the factory battery is too low this the problem.

I'll report back tomorrow after work with findings.
Thanks everyone for your input it's appreciated.

I was also looking at this one, seems interesting:

Antigravity ATZ-10 Performance Lithium Motorcycle Powersport Battery with Built-In Jump Starting.

 

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I missed the part about the 13.5V kick on point for the charger. If the bike is not running, the voltage will not be >12.8V or so. At idle it MAY be >13.5V depending on conditions but if you rev it a bit it should get above that point. It's spec'd voltage (>14V) is at 4k rpm but in reality by 2k rpm it should be above 13.5V.

Nothing like having a USB "standard" and then having a manufacturer think they can "improve" on it. I have noticed on occasion different brand USB chargers noting they are specifically for xxx components so I know some things aren't compatible. Everything should work at 5V, however.

Anyway, if you already have another USB-C charger you should easily be able to hook it up temporarily and test the system. If it works you can determine the Hero and problem charger don't play nice together. You don't even have to make a hole to mount the charger if you don't want. Just stick it under the seat or in the fairing. I personally think the best idea is to get a USB charger/voltmeter. Like:
I put one on my 2014 and now 2018. Tells you a lot about how your electrical system is working.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I missed the part about the 13.5V kick on point for the charger. If the bike is not running, the voltage will not be >12.8V or so. At idle it MAY be >13.5V depending on conditions but if you rev it a bit it should get above that point. It's spec'd voltage (>14V) is at 4k rpm but in reality by 2k rpm it should be above 13.5V.

Nothing like having a USB "standard" and then having a manufacturer think they can "improve" on it. I have noticed on occasion different brand USB chargers noting they are specifically for xxx components so I know some things aren't compatible. Everything should work at 5V, however.

Anyway, if you already have another USB-C charger you should easily be able to hook it up temporarily and test the system. If it works you can determine the Hero and problem charger don't play nice together. You don't even have to make a hole to mount the charger if you don't want. Just stick it under the seat or in the fairing. I personally think the best idea is to get a USB charger/voltmeter. Like:
I put one on my 2014 and now 2018. Tells you a lot about how your electrical system is working.
Yeah tried it with bike running, never got that high, so battery is too small.

There's nothing wrong with the charger, the issue is that the 12VtoUSB connect to the battery isn't kicking on automatically, and when I plug the gopro with no battery it says it needs to be hooked to a 5V/2 ...... After everyone's input here I'm now certain that 12V to USB is fine, it's my battery in the bike causing it not to work right, because it doesn't have high enough output. Swapping the battery will fix the issue guaranteed.

And, I have these sockets, but also have a 6V dual USB with voltage readout as well, just haven't installed yet.

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Was waiting to get my fuseblock and gps tracker installed before I mounted anything else and took off fairings. I'd rather take off plastics and do it all at once so I don't have to constantly take them off adding little stuff. Those clips and tabs break too easy so the less I have to take it off the better in my opinion
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Finally got around to doing some installs.
The previous issue with the autosensing 12V/USB converter works just fine, and the battery is just fine.

The issue was simply it taking a bit to hit the voltage to kick on, and once I shut off the bike, I've seen it take up to an hour to discharge off and get down to the 12.5 to auto shutdown the converter, so all is working as expected, I was just being impatient.

Patience isn't my greatest character attribute 😆

Fuseblock and GPS installed and working
The GPS I find out after the fact it's only 2G, but does the job.

It's got a bunch of features like trips, trip history, vibration sms notifications and email, geo-fencing, street view for the location, etc etc ....

Pretty small, fairly easy to get installed standalone, or you can wire into a fuseblock.

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Fuseblock and GPS installed and working
The GPS I find out after the fact it's only 2G, but does the job.
Dude, that is really cool. Looks like a lot of great features and really good tracking and such.

But the cybersecurity guy in me is freaking the **** out right now. That's a metric fuckton of personal data you just posted on the internet. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Yep, I've been a Linux systems and security admin for like 25yrs my friend. I'm well aware lol

If you don't think you're leaving a metric **** ton of personal data on the internet simply by replying to this post, using the internet, having a cell phone, or using anything like a debit card, you're mistaken.

My info has been on the internet since the Internet, and what you see isn't always the truth ......

Fun fact .... That's not actually my address or neighborhood ☝😏

Don't forget, this thing will show you a trip history, and with the way I've set the interval to pull data, I can take a trip and extract that GPS plot on the map from anywhere the entire time I'm on the bike, even if I'm just cruising down a country road, or rando housing division 🤫

I could be at any one of these 😆

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But the cybersecurity guy in me is freaking the **** out right now. That's a metric fuckton of personal data you just posted on the internet. :(
Absolutely cool stuff and if that is what you want you should have it and use it.

There are trips I make that I leave the phone at home and use cash. Others times I don't care. One of the reason I drive old cars and use old cameras, etc.

Anyway, looks like your mod's are moving right along Indy.
 

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Yep, I've been a Linux systems and security admin for like 25yrs my friend. I'm well aware lol
snip
Glad to hear that! Whew. And yea, I know a ton of my info is out there. But it would take at least a tiny modicum of effort to find (not much, I know).

Also, what's the deal with IT people also training BJJ? Is it an excuse to get out of the chair, or are we just masochists? :ROFLMAO:
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, had to get my girl neked today ..... Wasn't the plan ..... But I dropped the back part of my frame hole cover into the engine bay ....... Twice ...... Second time I can't reach it, and now with the fairs off I figured it will be easy to find it ...... Wrong.... Dead wrong........ain't this a ***** 😒

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Since the fairings are off I went and got an H7 led drop in ..... Wow, the difference between the low beam and high beam is ridiculous.

Now I just gotta figure out how to get it to fit correctly and lock in place with a spacer or something ........

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