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Honda has 2 CBR 1000 lines, or models I suppose you could say....the cheaper one is the finest 2008 technology that's available in 2023. It's a nice bike, but it's engine and frame are 2008. It has a few modern electronics, but it's a 2008 CBR.

The expensive one (rr-r) is the one to die for. They don't buid very many. Most shops get one, if they get one. If you see one, in person, it's ...I don't know ...it's Honda when they build the best and dont have to be locked into a budget.

I think time is on your side. In a few more months the economy should crash and they will be discounting again. Paying full list price for a Japanese motorcycle isn't a

 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Honda has 2 CBR 1000 lines, or models I suppose you could say....the cheaper one is the finest 2008 technology that's available in 2023. It's a nice bike, but it's engine and frame are 2008. It has a few modern electronics, but it's a 2008 CBR.

The expensive one (rr-r) is the one to die for. They don't buid very many. Most shops get one, if they get one. If you see one, in person, it's ...I don't know ...it's Honda when they build the best and dont have to be locked into a budget.

I think time is on your side. In a few more months the economy should crash and they will be discounting again. Paying full list price for a Japanese motorcycle isn't a

Yeah the fireblade is a beast, definitely don't see myself investing in that unless i had a track closer to me. i find myself being more indecisive each day about what i want. the ninja1000 keeps popping up as a more viable and useful option than the supersports i am yearning for. the 2016 ninja in my area is still available but now im thinking if i go the N1K route, then should i just buy a brand new one? How different is a 2016 N1k with 900 miles vs a 2022 N1k?
My apologies for indecisiveness!
 

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The 22 has better electronics, but if you can get by without cruise control, the 2016 has it's advantages.

A nice used bike saves so much money as someone else has already paid the freight and dealer prep fees and the other questionable charges. You never end up losing that much if you decide to trade later on

Being that the 16 has Ivan's reflash available for it would make me want it.
 

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The 22 has better electronics, but if you can get by without cruise control, the 2016 has it's advantages.

A nice used bike saves so much money as someone else has already paid the freight and dealer prep fees and the other questionable charges. You never end up losing that much if you decide to trade later on

Being that the 16 has Ivan's reflash available for it would make me want it.
Nothing to do with denying to 2020 onwards is far superior to YOUR bike?


LOL !!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
The 22 has better electronics, but if you can get by without cruise control, the 2016 has it's advantages.

A nice used bike saves so much money as someone else has already paid the freight and dealer prep fees and the other questionable charges. You never end up losing that much if you decide to trade later on

Being that the 16 has Ivan's reflash available for it would make me want it.
Thanks rcannon. A couple questions, is cruise control the only thing i'm missing out on with the 2016? I haven't been able to find a list of features on the 2016 vs the 2022. Also, i'm not fond of the double exhausts on the 2016. The '22 has exhaust on one side and can be replaced with a more sleek slip-on i reckon yeah?
 

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what do you mean?
Ahhh forgot you were knew to the forum - there was / is a quite lengthy and heated discussion around here some where with people arguing about the old vs new 2020 (2020 was when the refresh was done)

Pretty much people justifying their purchase of a 2020 vs older bike - I have very little to add in the vs battle as have no experience until 2021

I will however say - Buy the 2016 as you will lose very little money when you sell it in 6 mths to get your Supersport you so crave - Buying a 2022 / 2023 will see you lose heaps more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Ahhh forgot you were knew to the forum - there was / is a quite lengthy and heated discussion around here some where with people arguing about the old vs new 2020 (2020 was when the refresh was done)

Pretty much people justifying their purchase of a 2020 vs older bike - I have very little to add in the vs battle as have no experience until 2021

I will however say - Buy the 2016 as you will lose very little money when you sell it in 6 mths to get your Supersport you so crave - Buying a 2022 / 2023 will see you lose heaps more.
aha gotcha thanks for the input. do you have any experience with slip on exhausts for the N1K? Sort of odd with having exhausts on either side. Stock is bit bulky for my taste.
 

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aha gotcha thanks for the input. do you have any experience with slip on exhausts for the N1K? Sort of odd with having exhausts on either side. Stock is bit bulky for my taste.
its easy you have to buy 2 :) - A lot of people go the Vance and Hines Urban Brawler but it is really just what floats your boat - The main sound modifier is the Cat / Sound box under neath
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
its easy you have to buy 2 :) - A lot of people go the Vance and Hines Urban Brawler but it is really just what floats your boat - The main sound modifier is the Cat / Sound box under neath
looks like i may end up grabbing this 2016 N1k afterall...it's been sitting in a garage for practically 6 years. I'll have to replace the tires first off. Anything else i should consider? I don't know if it ever got it's first break-in maintenance done, so i'll likely have to do that as well. The owner was a "senior" so i doubt the engine ever got much of a beating in the high rev range. Lots of electronics that im not used to...i'm assuming those don't tend to just stop working after not being used for awhile?
 

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looks like i may end up grabbing this 2016 N1k afterall...it's been sitting in a garage for practically 6 years. I'll have to replace the tires first off. Anything else i should consider? I don't know if it ever got it's first break-in maintenance done, so i'll likely have to do that as well. The owner was a "senior" so i doubt the engine ever got much of a beating in the high rev range. Lots of electronics that im not used to...i'm assuming those don't tend to just stop working after not being used for awhile?
I will leave it for the more experienced here to chime in - If it has been sitting for 6 years - I would want to drain the tank make sure its clean and seals hoses have not eroded - check suspension seals etc - brake bleed - oil change - coolant flush / change - new tyres (they will be flat spotted most likely as well as old) - inspect all other hoses connection rubbers seals etc

The electronics and modules themselves should have no issues as long as rodents / insects have not chewed wired etc and as long as all sensors are freely moving that are supposed to move like ABS etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I will leave it for the more experienced here to chime in - If it has been sitting for 6 years - I would want to drain the tank make sure its clean and seals hoses have not eroded - check suspension seals etc - brake bleed - oil change - coolant flush / change - new tyres (they will be flat spotted most likely as well as old) - inspect all other hoses connection rubbers seals etc

The electronics and modules themselves should have no issues as long as rodents / insects have not chewed wired etc and as long as all sensors are freely moving that are supposed to move like ABS etc
ok good call. i think i will make a new post specific to that question. thanks again for all your input.
 

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Nothing to do with denying to 2020 onwards is far superior to YOUR bike?


LOL !!!!
Minlak, I know....you could be right, too.

It would be if a person valued the electronic pieces. Specifically cruise control and the traction control/abs. If those items are a priority, we can't even have a discussion. The new version is generations ahead.

If those items are not a big deal, the first gen bike makes 7-8 more horsepower. With Ivan's flash, the old engine has big advantages in response and no throttle restrictions.

Old version is more simple for a home mechanic to own. Cost would also factor in. Maybe even insurance if you feel comfortable dropping some of the coverage on the older bike as it's value is less.

Once you start digging, the engine and frame are the same as they always have been. The fairing has changed, but the basic bike is the same.

I don't think he mentioned cost? That has to be a consideration in days when new bikes sell for full price?

The 16 has the upgraded clutch. It's a good bike.
 
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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Minlak, I know....you could be right, too.

It would be if a person valued the electronic pieces. Specifically cruise control and the traction control/abs. If those items are a priority, we can't even have a discussion. The new version is generations ahead.

If those items are not a big deal, the first gen bike makes 7-8 more horsepower. With Ivan's flash, the old engine has big advantages in response and no throttle restrictions.

Old version is more simple for a home mechanic to own. Cost would also factor in. Maybe even insurance if you feel comfortable dropping some of the coverage on the older bike as it's value is less.

Once you start digging, the engine and frame are the same as they always have been. The fairing has changed, but the basic bike is the same.

I don't think he mentioned cost? That has to be a consideration in days when new bikes sell for full price?

The 16 has the upgraded clutch. It's a good bike.
i updated my original post. Went ahead and got the bike. Not sure if everyone who responded in this thread will see my update though..
 

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i updated my original post. Went ahead and got the bike. Not sure if everyone who responded in this thread will see my update though..
Love the red. Hard to say with model is "best". In theory all that electronic stuff makes the bike better but with the '17 Kawasaki took a big step backwards for anyone who wanted to mess with the gearing. 2 steps forward (clutch, LED headlights!) 2 steps back (over-restrictive TC, harder to read display). '20 added more electrics (CC & QS) and a better display but nothing I care personally about except maybe the display. The best thing about the '20 it seemed to me is it sparked interest from a lot of people. The longer the N1k carries on, the longer accessories and service and parts will be available. I'll be keeping my N1k for a long, long time.
 
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And no pictures?
As a group, I think we all decided ...if no pics, the bike not real.

Seriously, this isn't a bad buy even if it's not what you want , next year. You wouldn't loose as much money as the freight and dealer prep would amount to on a new bike you could have purchased.

Kenors made good sense with his post. The first few years they correct obvious faults. Things like the original bikes suspension and maybe even small things like the voltage regulators placement. That was done on your bike which is mostly from that 14-16 era machine
 

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i updated my original post. Went ahead and got the bike. Not sure if everyone who responded in this thread will see my update though..
And no pictures?
As a group, I think we all decided ...if no pics, the bike not real.

Seriously, this isn't a bad buy even if it's not what you want , next year. You wouldn't loose as much money as the freight and dealer prep would amount to on a new bike you could have purchased.

Kenors made good sense with his post. The first few years they correct obvious faults. Things like the original bikes suspension and maybe even small things like the voltage regulators placement. That was done on your bike which is mostly from that 14-16 era machine
@rcannon409 you should make a commitment to actually read just one post a day :)
 
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I sure missed it. I would read more if you posted more worthwhile things to read, Minlak . I mean that as lol.....not as it's written .

I focused more on seeing an as new, red ninja . It's even a while since we have seen one.
 
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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
And no pictures?
As a group, I think we all decided ...if no pics, the bike not real.

Seriously, this isn't a bad buy even if it's not what you want , next year. You wouldn't loose as much money as the freight and dealer prep would amount to on a new bike you could have purchased.

Kenors made good sense with his post. The first few years they correct obvious faults. Things like the original bikes suspension and maybe even small things like the voltage regulators placement. That was done on your bike which is mostly from that 14-16 era machine
I posted a picture on my original post. Also, i spoke with Ivan and he gave me some good advice for things to check on the bike before i consider ECU flash.
 
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