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Do you have a rear stand so you can collapse the side stand and see the alignment? My first thought was a spacer, maybe 1/4" behind the lever (if the bolt has enough threads) and perhaps that would provide enough lever stand off to miss the spring. If you had a bunch of photos or video showing the rub with the side stand up that might help others come up with an idea. My shift is a bit different than yours (2020) and it's OEM, but it has a slight outward bend so it doesn't come close to the side stand. Your rear set lever looks straight making the foot end closer. Maybe that is different from OEM, maybe the same. I'm not familiar with pre-2020 models.
 

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There appears to be a lot of play. We can address that later, but your shift rod is about 1/2" too long.

Ideally, we don't have a shift rod, but that isn't possible. If we have to use them, the linkage needs to be at 90 degrees from the pivot points. They can be angled, but the angle needs to be the same on the front and back.

I think I would also change the way the rear of the rod mounts to the new rearset. This would move the rod away from the spring.

I'm with you.... This is the kind of crap we deal with when you try to move pegs on a bike that was never designed to have moveable pegs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There appears to be a lot of play. We can address that later, but your shift rod is about 1/2" too long.

Ideally, we don't have a shift rod, but that isn't possible. If we have to use them, the linkage needs to be at 90 degrees from the pivot points. They can be angled, but the angle needs to be the same on the front and back.

I think I would also change the way the rear of the rod mounts to the new rearset. This would move the rod away from the spring.

I'm with you.... This is the kind of crap we deal with when you try to move pegs on a bike that was never designed to have moveable pegs.
Yeah these were installed by the previous owner and they're those Alibaba Chinesium metal craptastic ones that I don't like anyways, and want to change them, but I see some have a linkage that's backwards and I'd have to do a buncha **** to make it work right and I'm not interested in that.
 

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I think you can make these work with not much effort. They don't look that bad.
 

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I would try moving the 2 main mounting bolts down to the lower position of the 2 available , which should raise the pegs , moving the shift lever higher and it may then align better with the shift rod and see if there is any improvement. The amount of play does seems off.

Edit- Looking at these type of pegs on Ebay, which look very similar, it shows the shift rod connecting on the outer face of the peg mount, and the gear change knob (for want of a better word) has a different shape to the rear brake pedal, if yours are different shapes on each side then they appear to be on the incorrect side.

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I would try moving the 2 main mounting bolts down to the lower position of the 2 available , which should raise the pegs , moving the shift lever higher and it may then align better with the shift rod and see if there is any improvement. The amount of play does seems off.

Edit- Looking at these type of pegs on Ebay, which look very similar, it shows the shift rod connecting on the outer face of the peg mount, and the gear change knob (for want of a better word) has a different shape to the rear brake pedal, if yours are different shapes on each side then they appear to be on the incorrect side.

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View attachment 34998
I bet that's the problem. I have a couple new ones coming with rubber on them that are smaller so I bet that's the issue. You're a genius !

I can't just flip them because there's only one on the bike 馃槀

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I put these above on, but still running into an issue where upon downshift, the lever isn't returning to the correct position, and I have to lift it up with my toe in order to get it back into the correct position to change into the next gear.

It's almost like there's too much up and down Freeplay in the shift lever itself.

I'm thinking if I shorten the shift linkage rod which will raise the lever arm upward a little more and shorten the movement required to change gear, this should resolve the issue.

It's a royal PITA everytime I ride.
Thinking I wanna get rid of these green rearsets, just dunno what I wanna go with yet.

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The fixes we have mentioned are not really optional. You have to shorten the shift rod..

There are other issues, but these parts only work properly when the geometry is correct.

The rear of the rod isn't mounted properly. It drags on the kickstand spring and doesn't want to make a complete cycle. It needs to be mounted like the picture shows.

If you take these two steps, these might work.

Step 1 is to fix the rear mount. Just mount it, properly. Now, shorten the rod to where those pivot points are parallel with each other. That will help a lot.
 

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The fixes we have mentioned are not really optional. You have to shorten the shift rod..

There are other issues, but these parts only work properly when the geometry is correct.

The rear of the rod isn't mounted properly. It drags on the kickstand spring and doesn't want to make a complete cycle. It needs to be mounted like the picture shows.

If you take these two steps, these might work.

Step 1 is to fix the rear mount. Just mount it, properly. Now, shorten the rod to where those pivot points are parallel with each other. That will help a lot.
What he said. :)
 

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I wish you were local. These rearsets are like a knock off, fake Lego model. They can work well, but the instructions are usually zero and everything has to be assembled perfectly.

I would mount it like this, then set the length.

Theis pic might help.
 
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