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I know there is a lot of discussion on this and different results from different procedures so I wanted to share my story. 560 miles on bike. Got 4 quarts of Kawasaki 10w-40 and a HiFlo brand filter model HF-303 from the local shop. I wanted a Kawasaki filter but they didn't have one and said the HiFlo was good. All work was done on the side stand. I started the bike up and let it warm up then shut it off and pulled the drain plug and removed the oil fill cap. I let it drain for probably an hour. I was going to let it drain for less but taking the oil filter off became a 1 hour task so I left the plug out the whole time. I guess angry Hulk installed my filter too like others. I tried 2 oil filter wrenches and a strap wrench with no luck. I ended up doing the old screwdriver and hammer trick. After getting the old filter off I put the new one on without pre-filling it. I snugged it up enough where it wouldn't leak but loose enough that I could back it back off by hand if I needed to burp it. Then I put the drain plug back in and put 3 quarts of oil in. I crossed my fingers and fires it up and the light went out in about 3-4 seconds. Yayyy!!! I shut it off and had a friend hold it up straight while I added more oil to top it off. At 3 1/2 quarts I started it up again and let it run for a good 30-40 seconds then shut it off and let it sit a couple of minutes. I stood her up straight again and finished filling her up. It took exactly 4 quarts and the level is almost exactly in the middle between the 2 lines. Thanks for listening.
 

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Glad it worked out without being a headache, did you tighten the filter the rest way tight?
 

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if you go with the hi-flo racing filter next time they have a nut welded on front of the filter just like k&n has.makes removal much easier.
 

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Oil

Glad it worked out. I install the k&n 303 with the welded nut and castrol syn10/40 racing oil.....no burps after 3 changes
 

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I use Purolator filters and never burp and never measure. Let it drain for 1/2 hour, put the filter and the plug in, pour in a gallon of Rotella T6, and the level is always spot on full. Incidentally the oil level site glass is VERY sensitive to the bike being level to get a correct reading. After being fooled once, I put a board level on the seat, and a level on the board.
 

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I just had my oil changed at Kawasaki Philippines on my 2010 zx14, and it didn't need burping. They even blew compressed air inside (with a filter of course). Could it be the weather? It is hot and humid here. Oem filter and Repsol oil was used, they prefilled it though.
 

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Yep, the K&N filter with the 17mm nut makes removal and installation a breeze. Upon my first N1K oil change, I was afraid I might have to remove body work to change the oil and filter. I was pleasantly surprised that I didn't have to do anything like that. Oil changes are a breeze on the N1K
 

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Upon my first N1K oil change, I was afraid I might have to remove body work to change the oil and filter.>>>

On my 2014 I was unable to remove the factory filter with 3 different wrench tools, and before I pierced it and rendered it un-drivable, I took it to the dealer.

The Owners Manual says to take it to the dealer, and I think the utterly 300 ft/lbs of torque (feels like) to which the factory tightens it, is just for that reason.

I use a "hand tighten" Purolator filter with no problem. There are directions something like when you feel resistance tighten 3/4 turn or something, but all it requires is a firm hand tightening - not a gorilla tightening.
 

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I did the screwdriver jammed through the filter on the original. Imagine my surprise when the metal ripped before the filter would spin off.

I finally had to have someone hold the bike at 45 degrees. My 48" pipe wrench broke it loose. Between that filter, and the front sprocket nut, wow....
 

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I just got home from picking up my 16t from the Kawi dealer... Now I just have to get up the nerve and actually give it a try.

Off to the 'The Horror of removing the counter shaft nut' Thread
 

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Yeah, good luck with that. If you have a really powerful impact wrench and 27mm socket, it probably wouldn't be difficult at all.
 

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ok, here is my .02 cents.
Recently it was said not to use k&n, because one failed at some race.

Also the oil filter, according to the service manual it needs to be tighter than by hand.
 

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I like the stock filter...
 

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The only way to know how good an oil filter is is to open it with a hacksaw and examine the media used to do the filtering, and to know the difference between normal and "advanced filter media;" somebody did that and maybe you can still find it on the web. As I recall Purolator, Mobil-1 and Bosch were at the top. There is a lot of hype about motorcycle specific products that may, or may not have any truth to it.

There are all kinds of "toll manufacturers" out there who will manufacture and package anything you want. And unless you run afoul to the FTC you can claim anything you want about it. You would be surprised how many "name brands" (Valspar) never touch the product they sell.

It's all in the marketing.
 

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Agree, sometimes the stock kawasaki is cheaper than many of the top brands.
 
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