Anyone out there using Murph's Risers? The bike I just bought came with a set installed. I immediately took them off mainly because of the brake and clutch lever placement on the bar. It seemed that the only position you could set the controls was straight out at a 3 o'clock position? I didn't experiment with them much but after getting my first real ride in on the bike this Sunday, I think a little more upright might be nice. Any suggestions or recommendations is greatly appreciated.
Murph's Riser controls placement
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Any possible way you could post up a photo? I like the idea of the washer. I'd love to find a little more width as well.
Joined
·
94 Posts
I didn't take any pics when I did it. Assembled, it's hard to see the modification. Basically, I took the corner off where the clutch perch hit on the left and where the MC hit on the right. I wouldn't add more than one washer per side. You still need the pin to sit in the slot.
How about removing the pin? That would allow more forward sweep and by moving forward I could get more space in the **** pit. In addition, moving them forward would also allow me to get my controls down.
Joined
·
26 Posts
Hey guys, hate to bump this, but I just installed a set of these risers. Haven't got to test them on the street yet, but they feel good and are well made.
I've got the stock windshield on the bike. At full lock left, the brake reservoir hits the windshield in the lowest position. Did anyone else have this issue?
Full lock right results in a somewhat tight clutch lever. Right now, I just adjusted at the lever...
I've got the stock windshield on the bike. At full lock left, the brake reservoir hits the windshield in the lowest position. Did anyone else have this issue?
Full lock right results in a somewhat tight clutch lever. Right now, I just adjusted at the lever...
Joined
·
94 Posts
I've since replaced my screen with a V-Stream and no more issues; it did lightly touch at lock with the stock one, but how often do you move the bars that far?
For the clutch side, find the guide on the engine and take the cable out of it to give yourself some more slack.
For the clutch side, find the guide on the engine and take the cable out of it to give yourself some more slack.
Joined
·
26 Posts
I installed risers last weekend. They feel good but I do wish the levers were a little more downward. I think they should of been made with multiple holes for the pin. The pin could iof been a long Allen wrench set screw and once you find the position you like it could be lock tighted in place. I may do the mod this winter.
Joined
·
828 Posts
The pin issue is the main reason I never went with them. I have a tall torso, and now a taller seat, and the angle of the levers wouldn't have been even remotely close for me based on photos I've seen of them.
I've removed the pins on bike before, especially when replacing the bars. An old trick I used when dirt bike riding was to use friction tape to wrap the clamp location on the bars after pin removal. That way, the pinch bolts had enough grip to securely tighten down to whatever lever location worked .
Joined
·
94 Posts
It seems that some people are thinking that the lever perches have pins. They don't. They pins I'm talking about hold the risers in a specific location and the bars in the risers. Grinding the risers provides clearance to allow the perches to rotate down so they're not sticking straight out.
Joined
·
456 Posts
It's been awhile since anybody posted on this topic. New set of risers are sitting on my workbench. Is this more than a "bolt on" project? What type of problems, if any, should I expect. Hope it goes better than bleeding my brake lines.
Joined
·
12,188 Posts
Make sure when the clutch lever is pulled in, the back of the lever does not hit the switchgear..a guy I know....
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!