Go to town on them with a file. Also use a washer between the stock handlebar and the riser, it'll space it out 1-2mm. I did both. Finally, move the perches closer to the switchgear. Now I have more than enough room.
Murph's Riser controls placement
Anyone out there using Murph's Risers? The bike I just bought came with a set installed. I immediately took them off mainly because of the brake and clutch lever placement on the bar. It seemed that the only position you could set the controls was straight out at a 3 o'clock position? I didn't experiment with them much but after getting my first real ride in on the bike this Sunday, I think a little more upright might be nice. Any suggestions or recommendations is greatly appreciated.
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Any possible way you could post up a photo? I like the idea of the washer. I'd love to find a little more width as well.Go to town on them with a file. Also use a washer between the stock handlebar and the riser, it'll space it out 1-2mm. I did both. Finally, move the perches closer to the switchgear. Now I have more than enough room.
I didn't take any pics when I did it. Assembled, it's hard to see the modification. Basically, I took the corner off where the clutch perch hit on the left and where the MC hit on the right. I wouldn't add more than one washer per side. You still need the pin to sit in the slot.
How about removing the pin? That would allow more forward sweep and by moving forward I could get more space in the **** pit. In addition, moving them forward would also allow me to get my controls down.I didn't take any pics when I did it. Assembled, it's hard to see the modification. Basically, I took the corner off where the clutch perch hit on the left and where the MC hit on the right. I wouldn't add more than one washer per side. You still need the pin to sit in the slot.
Probably not a good idea to remove the pin(s). Think about what'll happen if either bolt loosens just a tiny amount.
Hey guys, hate to bump this, but I just installed a set of these risers. Haven't got to test them on the street yet, but they feel good and are well made.
I've got the stock windshield on the bike. At full lock left, the brake reservoir hits the windshield in the lowest position. Did anyone else have this issue?
Full lock right results in a somewhat tight clutch lever. Right now, I just adjusted at the lever...
I've got the stock windshield on the bike. At full lock left, the brake reservoir hits the windshield in the lowest position. Did anyone else have this issue?
Full lock right results in a somewhat tight clutch lever. Right now, I just adjusted at the lever...
I've since replaced my screen with a V-Stream and no more issues; it did lightly touch at lock with the stock one, but how often do you move the bars that far?
For the clutch side, find the guide on the engine and take the cable out of it to give yourself some more slack.
For the clutch side, find the guide on the engine and take the cable out of it to give yourself some more slack.
I installed risers last weekend. They feel good but I do wish the levers were a little more downward. I think they should of been made with multiple holes for the pin. The pin could iof been a long Allen wrench set screw and once you find the position you like it could be lock tighted in place. I may do the mod this winter.
The pin issue is the main reason I never went with them. I have a tall torso, and now a taller seat, and the angle of the levers wouldn't have been even remotely close for me based on photos I've seen of them.
That's why I took a file to mine. I have more lever rotation now then I did without the risers at all.
I've removed the pins on bike before, especially when replacing the bars. An old trick I used when dirt bike riding was to use friction tape to wrap the clamp location on the bars after pin removal. That way, the pinch bolts had enough grip to securely tighten down to whatever lever location worked .
It seems that some people are thinking that the lever perches have pins. They don't. They pins I'm talking about hold the risers in a specific location and the bars in the risers. Grinding the risers provides clearance to allow the perches to rotate down so they're not sticking straight out.
It's been awhile since anybody posted on this topic. New set of risers are sitting on my workbench. Is this more than a "bolt on" project? What type of problems, if any, should I expect. Hope it goes better than bleeding my brake lines.
yep, I just got my bike a week ago and it came with risers on it and yes the levers are to high with no way to rotate them down any. going to buy a file this week and start shaving that area down some as mentioned here... may try the washer deal too.
I must have long fingers because I was fine with the placement for the controls.. I mean i guess it COULD be a tad better.. But i'm so used to it now.
Make sure when the clutch lever is pulled in, the back of the lever does not hit the switchgear..a guy I know....
So..here I am with a new-to-me 8k mi 1000SX and short arms (5'4" tall) and a new set of Murph's Risers.
The lever angle was not acceptable to me and my short arms require help so here's what I did:
I re-drilled the index hole for the switch gear to move it OUT and rotate AWAY a little, this let me move the perch and rotate the clutch DOWN to where it works for me (left the pin IN and removed the metal cable adjuster lock thingy).
I ground the perch under the brake fluid reservoir to allow the brake lever to rotate down as well.
All seems well but time will tell.
The lever angle was not acceptable to me and my short arms require help so here's what I did:
I re-drilled the index hole for the switch gear to move it OUT and rotate AWAY a little, this let me move the perch and rotate the clutch DOWN to where it works for me (left the pin IN and removed the metal cable adjuster lock thingy).
I ground the perch under the brake fluid reservoir to allow the brake lever to rotate down as well.
All seems well but time will tell.
I know this is an old thread but I just purchased and installed the riser kit on my 2022 SX 1000.So..here I am with a new-to-me 8k mi 1000SX and short arms (5'4" tall) and a new set of Murph's Risers.
The lever angle was not acceptable to me and my short arms require help so here's what I did:
I re-drilled the index hole for the switch gear to move it OUT and rotate AWAY a little, this let me move the perch and rotate the clutch DOWN to where it works for me (left the pin IN and removed the metal cable adjuster lock thingy).
I ground the perch under the brake fluid reservoir to allow the brake lever to rotate down as well.
All seems well but time will tell.
Could I ask you to explain what you did to get the levers more down in a little more detail?
Perhaps a few pictures woud help understand how you got the levers down.
The kit is a keeper for sure but I also would like to have my levers a bit more down.
Thanks in advance for your response.
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