Kawasaki Ninja 1000 Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
698 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
After watching several Dave Moss Tuning videos on fork setup I followed his guidance on finding out where the fork bottom-out location is.

With the front wheel off the ground (fork fully extended) I used vernier calipers to obtain the distance between the dust wiper and the lower fork casting- it measures at just a fraction over 128mm. Fork travel is listed by Kawasaki as 4.7”, ~119.4mm. I then marked the fork stanchion that same distance below the dust wiper to approximate where bottom-out occurs. This mark ends up being ~9mm above the lower fork casting. I finished the job with a zip tie so my margin to bottom-out can be monitored.

DMT has so much interesting and useful content that I signed up for his premium membership.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,717 Posts
If you are after dead on perfection, and I think you are, that 4.7 is really optimistic. It was on the 11-13 bikes. It really is about .50 less. If you find any of your measurements to be off, start there. It was strange because the fork would handle that much, and more, but the cartridge had no more than 4.25....again, earlier bike. Your newer one could be different?

The top out spring makes it hard to find that extended measurement, it was always a little different.

Traxxion clued me into this when I ordered my AK20's. They added @ 15mm more travel to get us closer to that 4.7 figure.

Did you order the sag meter yet?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
698 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Interesting. Whether or not the 2017+ has Kawasaki's quoted 4.7” travel I cannot verify, but the damping internals show unique part numbers for 2011-2013, 2014-2016, and 2017+ models.

From the preliminary info provided me it doesn't seem like the Slacker V2 will work on a stock bike, at least without work-arounds that negate its convenience factor. If so, I'll go with the digital tape measure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,717 Posts
If anyone is following along, this sounds like something that's easy to do..just extend and measure. The problem is the top out spring. The top out spring keeps the fork from fully extending. If it could fully extend, you would hear, and feel a clunking noise as it hit its extended limit.

The top out spring prevents this clunk, but the fork does not always return to the same point. It's close, probably plus or minus 5mm, but if you are trying to set preload to the exact amount, something more precise is nice, and knowing the fork moves exactly 4.7 inches becomes more important.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
698 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Out of curiosity I measured the fork's extended length at minimum and maximum preload- it was ~2mm longer in the latter case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,717 Posts
That's interesting ......so, based on this, what measurement do we use? I know 2mm is no big deal, but it does factor in. Maybe it doesn't matter? We just use whatever figure we find, and the moment we check?...or figure that 2mm in, no matter what?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
698 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I measured down 4.7” from that maximum extension figure. My planned setup won't crowd the very limit of fork travel, I need some safety margin for the random big bump under emergency braking. Knowing the exact bottom-out location would surely benefit a tuner seeking maximum performance in the more predictable racetrack environment. For me it's more of an advisory.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Dave Moss is THE man on the dark art.
I,ve also been using cable ties on a fork leg to get a reasonably good idea of the travel I’m using. With a margin for an odd pot hole.
Effective & simple.
The Wilbers I just put in the back of mine comes with an ‘O’ ring on the chrome piston leg, it’ll b interesting to see how much I’m using of the travel at the other end also.
Can recommend the Wilbers by the way, worth the spend $
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top