You can only lower the front about 7mm due to the forks topping out in the clip-on risers. I highly recommend it though... especially in conjunction with a 190/55 series rear tire... This greatly improves the handling, but does nothing for reducing ride height!
Lowering 2014 N1K
So has anyone done this? Good? Bad? Ugly?
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Best option is to modify the seat.So has anyone done this? Good? Bad? Ugly?
old thread I know, but I'm a newb here. I just got a 2014 that is lowered. how much I couldn't say as I don't know the factory specs. the rear has a huge adjustable dog bone. and instead of pushing the forks up through the clip ons, the last owner left the clip ons in factory position and just pushed the forks up which lowered the end and at the same time rised the handlebar by the same amount. I have not measured it yet but my front end has been lowered at least an inch or a hair more. also what looks like a spacer sleeve on that one bolt that goes through the clip ons.
The danger you have here could be two things...
One is fork to fender clearance....I dont knwo how much distance is left.
Second, will your forks have full travel. You dont want them to bottom when the fender hits the fairing.
I dont think the front has a spare inch to give.
One is fork to fender clearance....I dont knwo how much distance is left.
Second, will your forks have full travel. You dont want them to bottom when the fender hits the fairing.
I dont think the front has a spare inch to give.
The danger you have here could be two things...
One is fork to fender clearance....I dont knwo how much distance is left.
Second, will your forks have full travel. You dont want them to bottom when the fender hits the fairing.
I dont think the front has a spare inch to give.
yeah I need to look up the stock specs and measure what I have now to be sure. I got my first real ride today and it has not hit the fairing yet. as far as how low it is I can't say. I'm 5'9" about a 29"-30" inseam leg and I can perfectly flat foot the bike while sitting on it.
Can someone here measure the space between the front fender and the bottom of the fairing for me?
Holding a tape measure vertical at the center of the ``V`` bottom of the fairing I get 3.75 inches to the center of the fender and that with the bike sitting on a rear stand so perhaps a fair bit of weight on the front wheel,,.
I think our paint is so frail, it would have left a mark, by now, if it was going to hit?
Also, the fender could hit the radiator if it was moved enough.
Look for small marks on the fender to see if it has hit anything, maybe?
Also, the fender could hit the radiator if it was moved enough.
Look for small marks on the fender to see if it has hit anything, maybe?
ok thanks for the measurement. I will check that. heres a pic of the forks pushed up with what looks like a spacer maybe. or is this normal? I also have the V-stream windshield, when I set the wind shield in the lowest position the brake lever hits it turning the forks to the left. while the fender has not hit the fairing yet I think I better raise the bike up some. I realized today while I was walking the bike back from a parking place when I turn hard left the lever hit the shield and stopped the bike dead in its tracks. this could be bad in a parking lot at slow speed turning hard left and the bike stops without warning.
I need to measure my seat height and see just how low the bike was set by the last owner. where on the seat should I measure from? at it lowest point I guess.. how hard is it to put back the stock dog bone if I need to? I will try to adjust the one that's there. hope I don't need to dig inti this thing too much..
I need to measure my seat height and see just how low the bike was set by the last owner. where on the seat should I measure from? at it lowest point I guess.. how hard is it to put back the stock dog bone if I need to? I will try to adjust the one that's there. hope I don't need to dig inti this thing too much..
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As you suspected, the spacer has been added.
If you really want your bike to handle, get rid of the spacer. Get the clamps together and leave 4-5mm of fork peaking through the top.
If your rear dogbone is adjustable, thats good. Just extend it to the stock position, then give it an extra 3-5mm....
Stock dogbones are not hard to install, its the holding the bike in the air thats the pita. Dogbone is really just two bolts, but this adjsutable one might be awesoem if ti allows longer than stock.
I would offer measurements, but my forks and shock has been messed with, so no help
If you really want your bike to handle, get rid of the spacer. Get the clamps together and leave 4-5mm of fork peaking through the top.
If your rear dogbone is adjustable, thats good. Just extend it to the stock position, then give it an extra 3-5mm....
Stock dogbones are not hard to install, its the holding the bike in the air thats the pita. Dogbone is really just two bolts, but this adjsutable one might be awesoem if ti allows longer than stock.
I would offer measurements, but my forks and shock has been messed with, so no help
ok that sound good. yes the rear dog bone is adjustable. don't know the brand. it has two big *** eye bolt things that the mount bolts go through, and the middle section is a thick hex bar that a wrench would fit . and towards the bottom of this hex bar there looks to be an allen set screw to lock it down after adjustments.
it looks just like a big *** brake linkage bar.
Like this ? if so....perfect...
TRex 1013 Z1000, Ninja 1000 Lowering Links Ful
You dont even need to remove it to adjust...Just loosen the lock nuts and turn the middle.
TRex 1013 Z1000, Ninja 1000 Lowering Links Ful
You dont even need to remove it to adjust...Just loosen the lock nuts and turn the middle.
I'm trolling this post as I have a 29" inseam. I was ok with only getting the balls of my feet on the ground ground but upgrading to a Sargent seat raised it enough that I could only get my toes on the ground. Sure I could get the seat modded but I don't want to risk diminished comfort as I sometimes ride 1800 miles in 3 days.
It was time to replace my TCX X-Five Plus Gore-Tex and I went with a closeout on Sidi Tour Gore-Tex. The thicker sole got the balls of my feet back on the ground and my heels even touch....barely, so I'm cool for now.
But when its time for new tires I intend on going with the 190/55 rear and pushing the forks up 7mm in the risers for improved steering. This higher aspect tire may rise the bike up a bit and I may emply this lowering link I got before the boots:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/KAWASAKI-2012...wering-Link-/162376873458?txnId=1510922441006
It was time to replace my TCX X-Five Plus Gore-Tex and I went with a closeout on Sidi Tour Gore-Tex. The thicker sole got the balls of my feet back on the ground and my heels even touch....barely, so I'm cool for now.
But when its time for new tires I intend on going with the 190/55 rear and pushing the forks up 7mm in the risers for improved steering. This higher aspect tire may rise the bike up a bit and I may emply this lowering link I got before the boots:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/KAWASAKI-2012...wering-Link-/162376873458?txnId=1510922441006
Like this ? if so....perfect...
TRex 1013 Z1000, Ninja 1000 Lowering Links Ful
You dont even need to remove it to adjust...Just loosen the lock nuts and turn the middle.
yep that's it!... do I need to have the bike lifted off the ground for any reason? I will measure the stock dog bone from center eye to center eye and adjust mine to that or a hair lower. I would be ok if I'm up on the balls of my feet but don't want to tippy toe the thing haha. the weight of the bike does not bother me as I'm coming off big cruisers and had a C14 awhile back. I don't even feel this tiny bike.
check out the link that rcannon posted, needle bearings in the eyes! much betterI'm trolling this post as I have a 29" inseam. I was ok with only getting the balls of my feet on the ground ground but upgrading to a Sargent seat raised it enough that I could only get my toes on the ground. Sure I could get the seat modded but I don't want to risk diminished comfort as I sometimes ride 1800 miles in 3 days.
It was time to replace my TCX X-Five Plus Gore-Tex and I went with a closeout on Sidi Tour Gore-Tex. The thicker sole got the balls of my feet back on the ground and my heels even touch....barely, so I'm cool for now.
But when its time for new tires I intend on going with the 190/55 rear and pushing the forks up 7mm in the risers for improved steering. This higher aspect tire may rise the bike up a bit and I may emply this lowering link I got before the boots:
KAWASAKI 2012-2015 Ninja 1000 Ninja1000 Fully Adjustable Lowering Link | eBay
Its better not to adjust on the dogbones, themselves. That center link has a little less change on shock geometry.
The shock is the best. A shorter/longer shock ends up as that, and no more. Adjustments in the linkage change the leverage ratio. Even if you make a positive geometry change, the shock is set up for awful geometry, so its a lose-lose situation.
The shock is the best. A shorter/longer shock ends up as that, and no more. Adjustments in the linkage change the leverage ratio. Even if you make a positive geometry change, the shock is set up for awful geometry, so its a lose-lose situation.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
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