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I tried a 39 rear. This bike has so much torque that it will pull anything you can bolt on to it. It still never fixed the issue, though. You don't ever really overcome 6 gears smashed close to each other. This bike should have the Versys transmission.
 

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I tried a 39 rear. This bike has so much torque that it will pull anything you can bolt on to it. It still never fixed the issue, though. You don't ever really overcome 6 gears smashed close to each other. This bike should have the Versys transmission.
I am doing a lot of long distance KM's currently and really want the 39 to just bring the revs in 6th down a bit which it does - I agree with the gearing in total not being right - i find as soon as I am heading off in first I feel like I should be in second - Doesn't really feel like it wants to wind out in first (My GSR1000 loved long runs in first)
 

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I know the Ninjas can damage 3rd gear. If mine ever does, I'll find a Versys 1000 transmission and find out how awesome this change would be.

Versys has a lower 1st gear. 2 and 3 are the same as the ninja , but 4-6 are higher.

I know high rpm won't damage this bike, but my concours 14 has an overdrive 6th gear. At 70 its under 4000 rpm. It's comfortable and relaxed. Sure, you need to drop down to 5th if you want to pass someone, other than a Harley, but so what? It just feels better. I don't think the versys will do that, but it would still be nice.
 

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If the N1k is the only bike a rider has, and long distance touring makes up a lot of the miles, I can kinda see the need for much lower cruising RPM. Realistically though, there are much better bikes for that sort of duty. N1k is a sport tourer, not a Iron Butt Rally contender. There are other niggles that add up to being ill-suited for mile-munching... more than just high curising RPM. I rode on stock gearing for good part of a year and it really wasn't that bad. Then I tried 39T, which dropped hwy cruising RPM a couple of 100's, without making 1st gear too tall for stop&go in traffic. A tiny bit taller might work well too, but I'm not sure I want any taller than either 16T front or 39T rear.

Of course, a guy is free to mod up a storm and turn his bike into whatever he wants. For me, if I wanted big HP, I'd get a big HP bike. If I need a super comfy grand tourer, I'd get a super comfy grand tourer. In the past, every time I tried to make one bike fits all, it always ended up being one bike fits none. Now, I only ever try to make one bike fit some. I've had much better luck doing that.
 

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A close ratio gearbox, like we have, is awesome on a dirt bike. Or any engine that's been set up to perform in a narrow rpm range.

We don't have that issue. Especially once the bike isn't restricted, like the stock bike is. The stock bike won't even make full power until its in 5th gear. Maybe the close ratio is nice when 3rd gear only give 75% of the available power?

Also, with mods, you consider the downside. The downside here would be that you might drop from 6th, to 5th to make rhe high speed pass. I think I could deal with that, and this would improve my iron butt

Any of these factories can build purpose built motorcycles. They become fun when you get the sport bike that's comfortable, or the touring bike that handles well.

They don't like to build bikes this way. Notice that all of our complaints....what? Power? Suspension? Touring comfort? Two up performance? All of these complaints are solvable, within Kawasakis showroom. It must be just a cooenidence that these bikes solve these problems cost more?
 

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2019 Ninja 1000 ABS w/ Akrapovic Slip Ons.
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I have the full set of parts to return to normal and the Woolich Racing Diagnostic to OBD II adapter. Tested out my ODB II scanner Tonight. No malfunction light, so no codes, but was able to read sensor values like fuel rate, engine temp, throttle position, RPM etc..looks like it is working. So if I do get a code from the 16T /40T change…well I should at least be able to check to see what the diagnostic code is, as the service manual indicates there are three that can trigger service code 25…plus a 4th that has been in the brake section of the service manual since at least 2011…abnormal wheel speed.

If it does not work out, I will just go back to stock sprockets and shift into 6th gear at the recommended speed in the user manual…34mph :)
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I know the Ninjas can damage 3rd gear. If mine ever does, I'll find a Versys 1000 transmission and find out how awesome this change would be.

Versys has a lower 1st gear. 2 and 3 are the same as the ninja , but 4-6 are higher.

I know high rpm won't damage this bike, but my concours 14 has an overdrive 6th gear. At 70 its under 4000 rpm. It's comfortable and relaxed. Sure, you need to drop down to 5th if you want to pass someone, other than a Harley, but so what? It just feels better. I don't think the versys will do that, but it would still be nice.
Has anyone done the versys transmission swap yet? I don't think I've seen anyone that has done it.
 

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The closest I've seen was a guy who did it on the z1000 forum. We all share the same engine, so it's possible. I wouldn't do it on a 17, or newer bike as I'm pretty sure the traction control would freak out.

He listed the old vs new ratios. I don't know this for sure, but I think the z always had the gearing of the 11-13 ninja. It didn't get the higher 6th like the 2014 ninja did...I think?

Not quite as cool as the guy who put the 2011 ninja 1000 motor in his Versys , but .,.

 

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The closest I've seen was a guy who did it on the z1000 forum. We all share the same engine, so it's possible. I wouldn't do it on a 17, or newer bike as I'm pretty sure the traction control would freak out.

He listed the old vs new ratios. I don't know this for sure, but I think the z always had the gearing of the 11-13 ninja. It didn't get the higher 6th like the 2014 ninja did...I think?

Not quite as cool as the guy who put the 2011 ninja 1000 motor in his Versys , but .,.

Seems like a huge decrease in cruising rpm in the 6th gear. It sounds like quite a big project. I'd keep an eye out for a gearbox set to keep around for when I do open up the bottom half of the engine.

Or maybe I'll wait for you to attempt that swap first
 

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Soooo- 2021 N1K dropped rear to 39T - Stock Tyre Size - Just over 200Kms yesterday (125miles for those stuck in the 1500's) - No error codes at all even with an almost off when the front slipped in gravel on a corner - The speedo is much closer to a true reading now - I was amazed at how the vibrations are just gone when cruising along on the highway - I didn't think the vibrations were that bad to start with but really noticed them missing (if that makes sense).
When in town I did feel like it was in the right gear now - Before at 60ish KMH (37 MPH for those playing at home) I was always wanting to be between 3rd and 4th for the "Feel" that's where it felt like it wanted to be - Now feels right in 3rd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Soooo- 2021 N1K dropped rear to 39T - Stock Tyre Size - Just over 200Kms yesterday (125miles for those stuck in the 1500's) - No error codes at all even with an almost off when the front slipped in gravel on a corner - The speedo is much closer to a true reading now - I was amazed at how the vibrations are just gone when cruising along on the highway - I didn't think the vibrations were that bad to start with but really noticed them missing (if that makes sense).
When in town I did feel like it was in the right gear now - Before at 60ish KMH (37 MPH for those playing at home) I was always wanting to be between 3rd and 4th for the "Feel" that's where it felt like it wanted to be - Now feels right in 3rd.
Nice! I’m thinking of doing the same. Probably changing the front sprocket together wil throw a code. Have you tried 120 km/h? I mostly ride at this speed so less vibration and lower rpm would be great
 

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Nice! I’m thinking of doing the same. Probably changing the front sprocket together wil throw a code. Have you tried 120 km/h? I mostly ride at this speed so less vibration and lower rpm would be great
"If" I had been at that speed I would not have been for any length of time and I would not have noticed the vibrations if they were there. :)

Pretty much found it more pleasant to ride in a like for like situation - can't say that with this set up that there were none but it was better than before if that makes sense - Overall felt better

Friend has a 2018 N1K he changed front only first and loved it - got to 200kms in and started throwing codes - they removed code - came back with in 20 kms every time - its almost like it was fine until something happened to make it notice then it was like no way!!

Apparantly front change is just over 5% and over system allowance - rear change is just under 5% and doesn't seem to care.
 

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2019 Ninja 1000 ABS w/ Akrapovic Slip Ons.
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I have done about 400 miles now on my 2019 N1K since changing to 16 T front sprocket and 40T rear (+1 Front, -1 rear from stock). No lights or anything strange so far. Running stock tire sizes with Bridgestone S20’s. I guess success will be if I ever get over 1000 miles. Seems like most of the issues that people report come in by 500 miles after changing sprockets. I have been checking tire pressures before each ride, making sure they are 36/42, since that is the most straightforward cause of service code 25. Time will tell.
 

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I have done about 400 miles now on my 2019 N1K since changing to 16 T front sprocket and 40T rear (+1 Front, -1 rear from stock). No lights or anything strange so far. Running stock tire sizes with Bridgestone S20’s. I guess success will be if I ever get over 1000 miles. Seems like most of the issues that people report come in by 500 miles after changing sprockets. I have been checking tire pressures before each ride, making sure they are 36/42, since that is the most straightforward cause of service code 25. Time will tell.
I had some information from people that their error first happened after TC activated the first time then would always reappear even after being cleared and just riding. So I don't know if coincidence for them or that was a factor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
Update, I spoke to my tuning guy. He says I should look into getting a Speedo healer after changing the sprocket so that the bike shows the right speed and the right km’s. Would this be something that’s definitely recommendable?
 

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Update, I spoke to my tuning guy. He says I should look into getting a Speedo healer after changing the sproken so that the bike shows the right speed and the right km’s. Would this be something that’s definitely recommendable?
After dropping to 39T rear my bike speedo is now closer to my GPS speedo
Was 108km/h on bike for 103km/h on GPS - Now 105 km/h on bike for 103km/h on GPS
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
After dropping to 39T rear my bike speedo is now closer to my GPS speedo
Was 108km/h on bike for 103km/h on GPS - Now 105 km/h on bike for 103km/h on GPS
Right, but then technically your km’s are reading slower? Or am I wrong on that? if the change is so minimal to real speed reading and km logging then I don’t mind it. But I read on other forums that the sprocket change can be giving worse results for speed reading and km logging the faster you go.
 

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Right, but then technically your km’s are reading slower? Or am I wrong on that? if the change is so minimal to real speed reading and km logging then I don’t mind it. But I read on other forums that the sprocket change can be giving worse results for speed reading and km logging the faster you go.
So it depends on what side of the argument you want to be on :)

Your speedo is not out by a fixed amount ADR says with in 10% but most are closer than that so just for easy math 10%
60km/h on bike 54km/h GPS - 6km/h difference
80km/h on bike 72km/h GPS - 8km/h difference
100km/h on bike 90km/h GPS - 10km/h difference
200km/h on bike 180km/h GPS -20km/h difference
This is why when people start bragging they had their 600cc bike at 299km/h people start asking for the GPS speed not the speedo speed the higher the speed the bigger actual km/h
Your bike wont be out 10km/h across the board but a percentage of that

So yes my KM/h are reading lower so my distance travelled KMs will read lower - it depends on how accurate you can live with.

So ideally you want your bike to reading 50km/h and doing 100km/h :)
 

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Update, I spoke to my tuning guy. He says I should look into getting a Speedo healer after changing the sprocket so that the bike shows the right speed and the right km’s. Would this be something that’s definitely recommendable?
I don't remember which year Ninja 1000 you had but a Speedo healer ONLY works with 2011-2013 models. Actually, I'm assuming USA models here. The speedometer readings come off the ABS sensor plates bolted to the wheel on later year models so changing sprockets doesn't affect the speed reading. I ran a speedo healer on my 2011 and it worked great to make the speedometer accurate. Changing sprockets just meant tweaking the healer for accuracy. I find it easier to read the speedo than the GPS.

My '14 and '18 Ninjas are pretty accurate after swapping to a /55 profile rear tire. Within 2mph of GPS.
 
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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Update,
Just installed the new chain and sprocket set. 15t up front and 39t in the back. The installation was pretty straight forward but getting the front sprocket nut loose was an absolute nightmare. Anyway, it runs great! I’ve done about 100km so far and nothing weird, no codes or errors. It feels like the bike is more stable and less jerky in lower gears. With my highway riding I notice the difference more, depending on weather and road of course. I think at 110km I was probably doing about 5k rpm before and now it’s more like 4.2k +\-. I’m also using the 3rd and 4th gear a lot more. The acceleration hasn’t changed much but my bike also has a race air filter and no catalytic unit..
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