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well, since burping can't hurt anything except you lap, I"m going to try it and see what happens. IF it works great, if not I've bonded with my bike more.
 

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@pcdaveh exactly where are you burping the system from?
As you sit on the bike, under the right side upper fairing is the radiator filler cap. You need to run the bike w/ the cap off and let the system circulate, so it will need to heat up, the fan will kick on and open up the thermostat and let the coolant flow. Also, the bike back and forth and side to side to get any air bubbles out. Here how I learned it from this video.
 

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You have to be careful with the word "overheat". That happens when you get a heat warning from the dashboard. Our original poster thinks "overheat" is when he thinks his engine is hot, because his skin is hot, and at that point hes going to turn his fan switch on. Two different things.
When I say overheat, I mean the red flashing light came on telling me the bike was overheating. I had to pull over out of traffic and shut it off. I kept the key on so the fan would continue to blow. My system is no longer overheating. I had considered tinkering with the fan but I'm glad I left it alone.
 

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Train I've had two Ivan flashes and there were no regrets only satisfaction. Many others have as well. I wouldn't trust anyone else to flash the ninja.
Thanks Rock. I'm not against it for sure. This was through Tune ECU for my Speed Triple. Not sure if it was related, but ended having weird issues with idling and had this rancid exhaust smell. So, if I knew that wouldn't happen again, I'd be down brother.
 

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Funny you say that Train. I had the dealer reflash my S3 with the factory tune because it was acting weird. I think the guy I brought it from did that same tune.
I can pretty much assure you Ivan is meticulous to a fault when it comes to his flashes. He buys the bike, creates a proto type flash and rides it around and tweaks the flash until it meets his extremely stringent expectations. Runs dynos, the whole bit, before he releases it. He's like the princess and the pea. He hears and feels things I would never even notice. he's harder to please than all my ex's added together :D
 

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No OCI. Alas MRs; Crabtree, my 4 period english teacher, and I never were able to sucsessfully make it out the broom closet. :cry:
 

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<< snip >> You need to run the bike w/ the cap off and let the system circulate, so it will need to heat up, the fan will kick on and open up the thermostat and let the coolant flow. << snip >>
That statement is not all together correct.

When the coolant is below ~55掳C (~130掳F) the thermostat is closed and only a small amount of coolant flows through a small air-bleed hole in the thermostat.

Once the coolant temperature is more than ~60掳C (~140掳F), the thermostat opens and the coolant flows.

When the coolant temperature goes up beyond ~100掳C (~212掳F), the radiator fan relay closes and the radiator fan turns on.

The thermostat opens/closes continually to keep the coolant within a specified temperature range.
 

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Where did the dimwitted Volfy go? I remember his arguing about the newer ninja not running hot. His dumb *** said his was fine. Never an issue. I told him to wait, until summer. Well, here we are. On behalf of all that good, and all that's right, please let me apologize, to humanity, for Volfy.

Murph is right on the thermostat. Also, the burping thing is usually needed after you have drained your coolant and refilled. My Toyota engine has several bleed ports that you open, after a fill. The bike doesnt have these ports. Squeezing the hoses is usually all it takes. You can also lean the bike side to side.

After a coolant fill, I usually need to go back and add a cup full of coolant to the reservoir. After that, no problems.

If the bike is running ok, you will have the fan kick on. That's how it is designed. If the temp continues to climb, and the fan never shuts off, that's a problem. But the fan cycling on and off isnt going to be fixed by burping the system. I believe a leak, near the pump, might cause it to pull air in, but that's a stretch.

That toyota is fun. If you dont open every port, that cooling system wont work....at all.
 

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@pcdaveh
So you utilizing the pressure cap / filler location. That's also the location of the exspansion tank line port and as designed by Kawasaki will let air and or coolant out as it heats up and exspands and then draw only coolant in if the exspansion tank is filled as recommended when it cools. This should happen automatically, no help needed. If its not there is an issue. Loose or cracked hose, defective return port in the exspansion tank or defective pressure cap
 

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Night train, if Ivan flashes your bike, that's one of the most proven products we have for this machine. On the 11-13 bikes, that flash was perfected for 8 years. You are getting the final result, and it's a massive change to these old bikes.
 

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Hi, Got same HI TEMP problem with my new 2019 Ninja 1000 (ZX1000WK) that old 1984 Ninja had... Reaching Red Zone Temp before the fan gets ON while driving in Town... 2019 Kawasaki Shop Manual specify: Fan gets ON @ 100 C (212F) and OFF @ 97.5 C (208F) while the Radiator Thermostat keeps the engine Temp @ 62 C (144F) while cruising on the road.

Knowing that Mineral Oil general rule of thumb is that the rate of oxidation doubles for every 10掳C (18掳F) rise in temperature above 75掳C (165掳F)

So by keeping the Engine's Temp @ 100 C the oil oxidize 2.5 time faster ...

So I put as my ( 88,000 Km / 55K Miles) 36 years old Ninja a manual switch ...that I switch ON before getting in town / heavy traffic and switch OFF when I cruise...

If you are interested ...It is quite easy when you know which wire to use...

Enjoy your ride and be safe
Hi, Got same HI TEMP problem with my new 2019 Ninja 1000 (ZX1000WK) that old 1984 Ninja had... Reaching Red Zone Temp before the fan gets ON while driving in Town... 2019 Kawasaki Shop Manual specify: Fan gets ON @ 100 C (212F) and OFF @ 97.5 C (208F) while the Radiator Thermostat keeps the engine Temp @ 62 C (144F) while cruising on the road.

Knowing that Mineral Oil general rule of thumb is that the rate of oxidation doubles for every 10掳C (18掳F) rise in temperature above 75掳C (165掳F)

So by keeping the Engine's Temp @ 100 C the oil oxidize 2.5 time faster ...

So I put as my ( 88,000 Km / 55K Miles) 36 years old Ninja a manual switch ...that I switch ON before getting in town / heavy traffic and switch OFF when I cruise...

If you are interested ...It is quite easy when you know which wire to use...

Enjoy your ride and be safe
Does anyone know if the new 2020 are running the same temp and have that same bar indicator?
 

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Night train, if Ivan flashes your bike, that's one of the most proven products we have for this machine. On the 11-13 bikes, that flash was perfected for 8 years. You are getting the final result, and it's a massive change to these old bikes.
RC, do you know if/when Ivan will release for the 17-19 bikes? Thank you
 

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No OCI. Alas MRs; Crabtree, my 4 period english teacher, and I never were able to sucsessfully make it out the broom closet. :cry:
:LOL:

Oh yeah that hot English teacher. I had one of those too. Damn!

BTW, where were these hot teachers having sex with their students when I was in HS? WTF!!
 

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In the old days, we would always have a fan override switch + muzzy aluminum fan or install an extra small fan.
Old days.... I noticed after doing a jet kit on a 86 600r in 89 or 90 that it ran cooler. It was never over heating but was let's say uncomfortably warm in the summer before.
The last kit I installed was on a 05 brute force 750 4 wheeler, solely to help it run cooler. The extra power was just a plus there. I feel it's better to address the cause then aid the symptoms.
 
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:LOL:

Oh yeah that hot English teacher. I had one of those too. Damn!

BTW, where were these hot teachers having sex with their students when I was in HS? WTF!!
I know right? In an age where there were no cameras or social media, and these tramps were no where to be found!!! :mad:
 
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