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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, Got same HI TEMP problem with my new 2019 Ninja 1000 (ZX1000WK) that old 1984 Ninja had... Reaching Red Zone Temp before the fan gets ON while driving in Town... 2019 Kawasaki Shop Manual specify: Fan gets ON @ 100 C (212F) and OFF @ 97.5 C (208F) while the Radiator Thermostat keeps the engine Temp @ 62 C (144F) while cruising on the road.

Knowing that Mineral Oil general rule of thumb is that the rate of oxidation doubles for every 10°C (18°F) rise in temperature above 75°C (165°F)

So by keeping the Engine's Temp @ 100 C the oil oxidize 2.5 time faster ...

So I put as my ( 88,000 Km / 55K Miles) 36 years old Ninja a manual switch ...that I switch ON before getting in town / heavy traffic and switch OFF when I cruise...

If you are interested ...It is quite easy when you know which wire to use...

Enjoy your ride and be safe
 

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On all my liquid cooled bikes (and cars that had the coolant temp reading), their fans all went on around the same temperature. 210-215 Deg F. Not sure why that is what manufacturers specify. I would think that 200 deg F would be a better point to start bringing down engine temp to 185 or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Why dont you focus on why its running hot ( its not) but if you wanted to pretend you are helping your bike, theres better ways of dealing with the heat.
OK ..So ..tell your ways to deal with the heat ...Thanks
 

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It's better to address the reason why you think it's running hot. When you put a manual switch in, you are fighting with the ecu and its programmed fan settings. Oil, even your standard cheap oil is fine below 275 degrees.
 

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Extended running at high temps, which I consider "high temp" as anything above 210 deg F, isn't goo for the engine's longevity, including the stator life. It won't kill it though. And if you are constantly stuck in traffic and running the coolant temp above 210 deg. F often, change the oil often. Maybe every 3k-4k miles. That more than anything will help the motor and stator last longer. The best way is to just don't let it run above 210 deg F for prolonged periods. Having said that, manufacturers seem to think 210-215 is ok.
 

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Is it that they think its ok, or it is ok? Whags the oil change interval on the new Ninja? I believe its at least 6000 miles. Its true that they are running this engine as hot as they possibly can, for emissions, but its nowhere near a dangerous level.

These fan temps are all fixable if a person reflashes the ecu. It doesnt need to be fixed, but its a far better option than having someone dick around with a manual switch that ultimately wont do anything.
 

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Your bike is running as designed. Boiling temp at sea level under 12 to 16 psi and a 50 50 mix is 250 to 260 degrees Fahrenheit. 121 to 126 Celsius. As for oxidation, unless your running a very cheap oil being poured out of a cardboard can the additives are much better today then 30 years ago.
 
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Avintage, that's the point. The current set up , as set up by Kawasaki, has the bike running at X temperature. Its what's good for the bike, and it's what let's it pass emissions.
If a person wants to make changes to that, I get it. But trying to do that with the fan switch is silly.

This stop-and-go traffic situation , and the low rpm range is the area where the stock O2 sensor is active. I'm not sure what's going to happen when that sensor is making some of the cylinders run lean, to build heat, and the operator is messing around with the fans turn on point.
 

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RC, I cant fault him for liking a cooler running bike.
 

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these 17-19 run hot. I'm going to lose the cat and do a header swap. My right calf is burnt from riding in stop and go.
 

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I like to mess around with electronics but changing the fan control on the bike is not something that i would consider doing.
 

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RC, I cant fault him for liking a cooler running bike.

I dont either. Based on what many people have said, the 17-19 bikes feel hot on a summer day. Still, theres a right way to go about this, and a wrong way. Playing with the fan is definitely the wrong way when you dont plan to address anything about why it feels hot. It's like having your house burn down, but your future plan is a larger fire extinguisher rather than fire prevention.

Removing the cat , like Rock mentioned, makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It's better to address the reason why you think it's running hot. When you put a manual switch in, you are fighting with the ecu and its programmed fan settings. Oil, even your standard cheap oil is fine below 275 degrees.
If you are using the RIGHT wire ...you are NOT messing with the ECU...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
RC, I cant fault him for liking a cooler running bike.
YEP ...Why did they set the TEMP @ 145 F at the Radiator thermostat while cruising?? To keep it cool ... I did the same with my 1984 GPz Ninja 900R ... 185,867 Km ..(115K Miles) and my brother still running her...She never saw Temp over 175-180 F
 

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It's better to address the reason why you think it's running hot. When you put a manual switch in, you are fighting with the ecu and its programmed fan settings. Oil, even your standard cheap oil is fine below 275 degrees.
My question was HOW YOU manage the HEAT ?? You did not answer it ...You just said that I DICK AROUND...
 

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The way i would personally look at this is, first determine the temperature that my bike runs at during "normal" operation. Now i find out at what temperature the fan kick's in.
now determine at which temp between these two it becomes uncomfortable for me....now i will add a piggy back control to automatically start and stop the fan. Best would be to make use of the same temp sensor, taking care the your sensing circuit does not change the accuracy of the original sensing/control :) I would not do this with a manual switch
 

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The first thing I did was become familiar with modern motorcycles.

When I did that, I learned that the "hot" temperatures were controled by the ecu. You manage the heat by setting the ecu up to be efficient instead of emissions compliant. I also didnt pretend that I had a problem, or dick around with an automatic fan. That fan is doing what it was programmed to do.

With both of my bikes, I had a trusted professional reflash their ECU's. I also added a full exhaust ( no more cat) . Guess what? No more pretend heat issues.

New one, what you are saying makes good sense. However, you dont need that second switch when you are able to re-program the original switch.
 

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Unless this was a big issue i would not even do the mod, i mostly keep my bikes standard...accept upgrading the chain and installing my custom alarm
 
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