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Discussion Starter #1
Purchased a '14 yesterday and realize there are a couple of mds I want to d and maybe a couple of more after riding
1. is a 12 volt power supply to run a GPS and chargers for phone, etc. Thought about going with a marine style, but have you mounted a conventional in a protected area.

2. Cruise control. A throttle lock is OK, but an automotive style is so much better for long trips. Has someone found an after market and what were the installation issues?

3. Instead of the hard bags have you gone with textile? Is there a need for a bracket to keep the bag from falling into the wheel?

Nest ones could possibly be
1. risers to gain a 1 inch pull back
2. taller windscreen for more weather protection when touring
3. Possibly a seat mod based on comments I have seen here. The first two hours should be OK, but what about by hour 6.
 

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Lots of us have used textile bags.....But, I dont know anyone who went backwards, like you are considering. You got a deal on your bike, but those bags are seriously expensive. Close to 1500.00. Most who bought those, use them, and paid $$$$ for them. They are so well designed, and so easy to remove, anything else will be a step backwards.

The cruise control option? People have done this, but its much harder on our non ride-by-wire bikes. BMW uses the ride-by-wire system, so its simple to do. Not so much for us. This kit might work Audiovox Cruise Control Installation on the Concours 14

My 2012 had an open power supply in the right hand "fairing" . Maybe they are there on the 14? Look for two open wires right between the fairing and fuel tank. Mine were visible without removing a thing.

Yes, the seat sucks, but I'm sure you searched out the options. Kawasaki's gel seat is a decent alternative for a pretty good price.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Appreciate the input. The hard bags were not included with the bike and as you say by the time you are done it will be close to $1500 to get them from the dealer. If price were no object I would have hard bags every time.

This bike will be filling a back up role to the main bike. Short trips of 1 or 2 nights with no passenger and the Ninja will get the nod once the ergos are right. A passenger or longer trips the other one will win. Just the type of riding I do, giving it the touring comforts will mean it gets more miles per year.
 

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I'm using the Kriega luggage system now for bags and I'm really happy so far... no need for a bracket. I previously used Cortech soft saddle bags and no problems/no bracket... just run the webbing between the bags over the top of the passenger seat and the bags will ride high enough. Those hard bags are pretty sweet though... that's what credit cards are for right? ;-)

I use the Kawasaki OEM gel seat. I log 300-400 mile days no problem.

Electronic cruise control would be nice but like rcannon says, may be difficult. I am pretty used to a throttle lock now.

Cycle World did a long-term N1k test and added a tall windscreen and bar risers... here's the article.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the links. The Kriega is similar to the Dry Spec from Twisted Throttle. Twisted Throttle has an outlet in Canada so it avoids import duty.

While the electronic cruise control is nice, retro fitting is not that simple. I am tempted to go with a simple throttle lock to start with to see how many miles this bike gets compared to my other one. I don't ride with a passenger as much as I used to so it may get more miles than the 650R did. The Wing wins on multi day trips with a passenger or if I want to put in 700+ mile days.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
In the last few weeks things have changed a bit.Still getting a blue 2014 that will be delivered today, but it is not the same bike. When they took the original bike out of the create it was green. The dealer panicked and phoned me regarding having the wrong colour in the inventory system. I had already insured, and licensed the serial number as a blue bike. The dealer offered to to provide the blue bike they had used to lead group demo rides with 770 km on the odometer. While they could not guarantee it had never been run to the redline during the first part of the break in they did assure me it was very unlikely as it was not offered to the public to ride. To sweeten the deal they would perform the 1000 km (600 mile service) and supply the Givi version of the hard bags in black. Think 2013 style. I thought it over and realized I was getting about another $1000 off so................ I accepted the deal.

My list of mods have changed with probably the first being a 12 volt power supply. A GPS is useful beyond keeping you from getting lost. I will know the speedometer error for one. For others with a 2014 how far out is it?
 

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speedometer ? I only look at then when I see police cars :)

Have your front sprocket changed ($25+ install) and get a gear indicator ($150), get a ram mount for your smart phone($60), get a senna kit for your helmet($100), get some mini spools($15) for a jack, get a fender eliminator to use the jack($110).

For explanation of the above:

1) The bikes gears are to short and top gear is buzzy at 75mph. The sprocket will allow you to enjoy each gear and the give you a better freeway experience

2) You are going to be trying for 7th gear a lot because of problem 1. At least you have more valuable info now

3) Smart phone does the gps, speedo, music, etc

4) Senna integrates via blue tooth with the smartphone and lets you chat with your buds.

5) Mini spools clear the exhaust and let you use a jack for maintenance

6) The fender impacts a lot of the inexpensive jacks, plus its horribly ugly and terrible large.

Enjoy the best affordable SPORT tour you can buy!
 

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GaryK this is a very valuable information for me. Thanks a lot.
1- I am using 1 to 3 to 5 and six. Second for me is useless and 4th. I can not agree more.

2- The speedo will be affected if i change the front sproker.... smartphone is a solution but... mmmm.

3- Senna is what i was looking for.. what model did you recommend ?

4- Can you show with pictures the Mini Spools and what's the problem ??

5- Fender eliminator kit... I like the visibility of the red reflector down. I think i will keep the original unless i can see any real good benefit.

Thanks a lot for your info.
 

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2) Consider the optimistic nature of the OEM speedos. Dropping the ratio may actually make it more accurate. I will GPS mine and let you know when the weather breaks. Right now I need a snow mobile not a motorcycle :)

3) Senna has came out with several new models. I would recommend getting what your friends may already have as to avoid mismatch (not sure that is an issue). Personally the Senna 10 2 pack was the kit to have.

4) Amazon.com: Keiti Swingarm Spool - 8mm - Mini - Black BB280K: Automotive are the spools... first you need 8MM standard is 10MM. Second I am told exhaust will impact larger spools under compression.

5) The OEM fender impacts my jack. My brother who also has a 14 n1k broke his fender. It hangs down to low and catches. I only have the Harbor Freight aluminum. This may not be an issue with an expensive jack. There are much better visibility options than that little reflector. Generally LED/Strobes can be mounted back there which will be more effective.
 

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I have mounted Tapp Lite USB chargers on a few of my bikes to run my GPSs, charge cell phones, power GoPros, etc. Love them. Do a google search .. reluctant to name places like Twisted Throttle in forum ... don't want to get in trouble :eek:
 

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Just as an FYI on the Sena communicators, most of them now will work with a lot of other Bluetooth models. Look for Universal something-or-other in the features.
 

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I upgraded the seat to a Corbin, still early but a pretty big difference. I located some rubber grommets to mount the seat as it vibrates a lot compared to the stock seat which is mounted with rubber isolators. This all but eliminated the vibrations. Prior to the Corbin I could only ride about 1 1/2 hours before I was begging for mercy... That is not the case with the Corbin. I hear the Kawi gel seat is good but can retain heat if left in the sun.

I also went with a taller dark smoke windscreen from puig, I generally run with it in the middle position.

A 190/55 rear tire also makes considerable difference, I chose Michelin PR4's front and rear. Just did this change and I felt like I was on a new bike again :)
 

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speedometer ? I only look at then when I see police cars :)

Have your front sprocket changed ($25+ install) and get a gear indicator ($150), get a ram mount for your smart phone($60), get a senna kit for your helmet($100), get some mini spools($15) for a jack, get a fender eliminator to use the jack($110).

For explanation of the above:

1) The bikes gears are to short and top gear is buzzy at 75mph. The sprocket will allow you to enjoy each gear and the give you a better freeway experience

2) You are going to be trying for 7th gear a lot because of problem 1. At least you have more valuable info now

3) Smart phone does the gps, speedo, music, etc

4) Senna integrates via blue tooth with the smartphone and lets you chat with your buds.

5) Mini spools clear the exhaust and let you use a jack for maintenance

6) The fender impacts a lot of the inexpensive jacks, plus its horribly ugly and terrible large.

Enjoy the best affordable SPORT tour you can buy!

lol the gearing is too short and you guys are skipping gears 1-3 etc? Wow, are these your first bikes or something? Or maybe you ride in a completely flat state which still does not warrant "skipping gears"
 

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I think you misunderstood or you ride so slowly that you don't notice how short the gears are. By changing gear ratios it impacts your 1/4 mile time by .1 but because the final ratio is impacted greatly by the multiplier it allows you to use each gear for a bit longer. Gears 2 and 3 really have no purpose as the ratio is so steep that in stock form they are really just delays to the inevitable.

Many of us have come from sport bikes that have 14-15K redlines and will easily do 80-100mph in first gear. We are not used to 3 shifts before 100 so it seams very busy to be on the pipe and making worthless shifts.
 

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I think you misunderstood or you ride so slowly that you don't notice how short the gears are. By changing gear ratios it impacts your 1/4 mile time by .1 but because the final ratio is impacted greatly by the multiplier it allows you to use each gear for a bit longer. Gears 2 and 3 really have no purpose as the ratio is so steep that in stock form they are really just delays to the inevitable.

Many of us have come from sport bikes that have 14-15K redlines and will easily do 80-100mph in first gear. We are not used to 3 shifts before 100 so it seams very busy to be on the pipe and making worthless shifts.
lmao, no need to get hurt. if you think that going from 1st straight to 3rd is going to make you faster then keep on thinking it. Just trying to be helpful, maybe take some riding classes to help you out. If you find that offensive that was not my intention.
 

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I think again the original post wasn't clear to you.

I do not skip gears.

I am really not sure how to do that. I predominantly clutch-less shift.

I think what might be confusing to you is that in some conversations we have spoke about the oem gearing where we discovered the need for a healtech gear indicator. With OEM it always felt like you needed to have another gear - the infamous 7th gear. When you modify the gear ratios and use a healtech you must manually configure the device or it will 'skip gears' this is only a gear indicator not an actual gear change.

No offense taken. I have had my motorcycle certification since 1987 I have put over 20K on motorcycles, and done track days, I still learn new things every day. Maybe go back and re-read the post and see if perhaps you jumped to conclusion that made no sense...
 
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