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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone using a G2 throttle tube on their N1K? I have a 2011 model and I hate the abrupt throttle out of the corners. I've tried using a higher gear and chugging out of tight turns but that's not working either. I've used these tubes on all my previous bikes with some level of success. It's not a miracle cure but it's cheaper than a $700+ Ivans reflash. I'm on the fence about keeping this bike and I'm not sure I want to invest large sums of $ into it. This is a band aid but it might help and the cost is something I can afford.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What so much for the Ivan's tune? I think I paid only like $350 or so. Are you outside the US?
For my old 2011 model it requires a $350 reflash and a Power Commander as a supplement to fine tune the fueling. Add the AIS block off plates and a new air filter and I'm way over $700. Apparently my generation has a less sophisticated ECU? It's just not worth it to me. I'd rather sell the bike and keep my $700 for something else. If it was only $350, I'd send in the ECU tomorrow.
 

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Wow, what a drag. I see where you are coming from now. I'd just punt then to be honest. If I had to live long term with that $hitty throttle response I'd have sold the bike. It really killed my enjoyment of it. Thankfully the reflash transformed the bike. I'd never go back.

I wonder if an ECU from a newer model would work. Maybe you could find a crashed one and try it. I know your bike has the servo crap but maybe the ECU is a straight drop in and your bike won't take advantage of the extra features such as the trip computer and so on. I've seen things like this work before. If you could buy one cheap (don't know how likely) it might be worth it.

Though to be honest, I'd still likely just punt in your situation. I don't think the throttle tube will change it though. No matter how much I micromanaged that transition point, it was either nothing or a big jump in the input. After the first week of buying the bike I already had buyer's remorse because of that light switch throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, it's a tough call. Wish I had held out a little longer for a newer used model. Not sure what I'd replace it with? Don't want to come out of pocket or borrow $. It's a very practical sport tourer but between the throttle and the lousy handling, I'm not sure it's right for me. I just bought a bunch of farkles for it so I guess were stuck together for awhile? I got a DRZ Supermoto as well and that thing will run circles around the Ninja in the twisties and it only has 40 hp.
 

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You don't need the ECU + PC5 etc ... to have the throttle fixed.

The FCE alone will fix 90% of it.
The ECU the full 100% ... even without PC5 (only needed for full headers).

I've done both, I can speak out of experience.
 

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The rear tire makes a significant difference on it. Going with a /55 made a much bigger difference than I anticipated. You could also play with raising the forks in the triple clamps. Make sure you check clearance when the fork is fully compressed. Both of these (tire & forks) will quicken up the steering.

Not fair to compare the DRZ vs. Ninja. A supermoto is pretty light and setup well can corner quite nicely. I used to have a lot of fun on DR Big Suzuki in the N. Georgia mountains. I could smoke some very good sport bikes on my big dual purpose bike. With a good set of tires you could be dragging your boots through the turns and that bike had a lot of ground clearance. The wide bars gave me a lot of leverage (something the Ninja lacks) and good suspension meant mid turn bumps didn't upset the chassis.

The tighter the road, the more the dual purpose bike can potentially have an advantage that is hard to overcome. Same is true of a very lightweight street bike. The Ninja isn't light and moving that mass around can be work. I pretty much hated my Ninja on the very tight backroads until the tire change. Still don't like it but at least not hate now. By tight I mean with turns less than 25 mph. I was sweating my butt of wrestling it around the turns.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You don't need the ECU + PC5 etc ... to have the throttle fixed.

The FCE alone will fix 90% of it.
The ECU the full 100% ... even without PC5 (only needed for full headers).

I've done both, I can speak out of experience.
I'd LOVE to hear more about this FCE fix you speak of?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The rear tire makes a significant difference on it. Going with a /55 made a much bigger difference than I anticipated. You could also play with raising the forks in the triple clamps. Make sure you check clearance when the fork is fully compressed. Both of these (tire & forks) will quicken up the steering.

Not fair to compare the DRZ vs. Ninja. A supermoto is pretty light and setup well can corner quite nicely. I used to have a lot of fun on DR Big Suzuki in the N. Georgia mountains. I could smoke some very good sport bikes on my big dual purpose bike. With a good set of tires you could be dragging your boots through the turns and that bike had a lot of ground clearance. The wide bars gave me a lot of leverage (something the Ninja lacks) and good suspension meant mid turn bumps didn't upset the chassis.

The tighter the road, the more the dual purpose bike can potentially have an advantage that is hard to overcome. Same is true of a very lightweight street bike. The Ninja isn't light and moving that mass around can be work. I pretty much hated my Ninja on the very tight backroads until the tire change. Still don't like it but at least not hate now. By tight I mean with turns less than 25 mph. I was sweating my butt of wrestling it around the turns.
Thanks for the sympathetic words. I've been hating on the Ninja lately. It's not a bad bike, it's just like most Japanese sportish bikes it has lousy throttle response and soft suspension and an awesome motor with tons of untapped potential. When those things get fixed it will be awesome, just not sure I want to make the investment? This is my long day bike and it's generally comfortable but it's hard to ride fast, at least it is for me. I addressed two issues today with it and ordered a gear indicator and CRG mirrors. Not be able to detect gear choices is an issue in the mountains, not being able to see what's happening behind you feels like I'm half blind. Those are two minor complaints that after being fixed will make me happy.

I live close to The Dragon at Deals Gap and I ride there often. I've ridden a bunch of different bikes up there and this one has been one of the hardest to push around. I rode the Ninja up there Saturday and struggled with gear choices and the ubrupt acceleration. The suspension is undersprung for my fat body and the forks seem to twist during quick direction changes. I set it up properly but the springs are too soft by the numbers. That's another expensive fix. Took the DRZ up there yesterday and it just rails. It's faster in and out of corners and never seems vague and scary like the Ninja. I think the back to back comparison just made me mad at the Ninja. The bike has a ton of potential but tapping that cost big $. If I did sell it, I have no idea what I would replace it with? I got it because I wanted a sport bike to do long days on that was fast, comfortable, reliable, and handled well. I guess, 3 outta 4 ain't bad
 

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What tires are you running? I hated the stock ones on my bike. It was totally unpredictable. I'd hit a tar strip and felt like I was going to totally lose it a lot of times. Not very confidence inspiring for me at all.

Swapped the tires and made me actually enjoy the bike on the backroads. I went with the Pirelli Angel GTs and the taller aspect ratio (/55) and made I feel more confident when pushing it to the limit now. I am not a small guy and I was able to get it dialed in better.

I don't hate my Ninja, I am just pretty realistic about its faults, but I also appreciate its strengths.
 

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I'd LOVE to hear more about this FCE fix you speak of?
Ivan's Performance Products

But he doesn't seel it himself anymore.

Brock's performance still does.

Fuel Cut Eliminator Z1000/Ninja 1000 | Brock's Main Store


For the improved handling.
55 rear tire, sport tires with more aggressive shape.

And IMO the biggest fix, a descent suspension.
Mine made the rear 8mm higher, and much ez'er to change direction.

Bitubo suspension (rear - K100CLU31 + front MK 42 & KFORK056)
 

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The fce was a heck of a good product, and its price was, what, maybe 125?


700 sucks, but you dont need the filter, or block off plates. If it stops the need to want a new bike, whats the savings there? I dont know the stats on how much a person loses on a bike trade, but it has to be in the thousands.

700 is a whole three payments on something new. Sucks to have to do this, but in the long run its cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ivan's Performance Products

But he doesn't seel it himself anymore.

Brock's performance still does.

Fuel Cut Eliminator Z1000/Ninja 1000 | Brock's Main Store


For the improved handling.
55 rear tire, sport tires with more aggressive shape.

And IMO the biggest fix, a descent suspension.
Mine made the rear 8mm higher, and much ez'er to change direction.

Bitubo suspension (rear - K100CLU31 + front MK 42 & KFORK056)
Thanks for the heads up on the FCE. I wasn't aware of this? I'll do a bit of research and decide if I should do this on the cheap or go the full Ivans route. I've never liked the idea of a Power Commander.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The fce was a heck of a good product, and its price was, what, maybe 125?


700 sucks, but you dont need the filter, or block off plates. If it stops the need to want a new bike, whats the savings there? I dont know the stats on how much a person loses on a bike trade, but it has to be in the thousands.

700 is a whole three payments on something new. Sucks to have to do this, but in the long run its cheap.
I got the Ninja at a good price but it's worth just about what I have in it. Lucky for me, I've always made $ or broke even on every bike I've owned. But I have never bought a bike new. Making payments is out of the question for me. I just feel like a bike is a luxury and I can't make payments on luxury items. So, if I was to sell it I'd be looking for a replacement that has all the issues sorted out and I'm not sure that bike exists? Like most new things, the Ninja was exciting for a while but then you start noticing the things that could be better. I'm gonna take her out on a long solo date in the mountains this coming weekend. If we have a good day, I may decide to invest in her a bit. If she treats me poorly I might start looking elsewhere.
 

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Here's the thing. Bikes got expensive. Liter bikes were 11,000 back in 2004. That's close to the price of a ninja 1000 now.

Kawasaki let us in cheap, and the 2014 is much improved. However, the cost of a sorted sport touring is way closer to 15k, new. Expecting 15k for 10 won't work well.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah, I was looking for a used 2014 when I found the 2011 with super low miles at a very reasonable price. I'm not in the $10k price range much less $15k. I'll probably slowly tweak on it. If it had the Ivans fix and some suspension work it would be near perfect.
 

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Yeah, I was looking for a used 2014 when I found the 2011 with super low miles at a very reasonable price. I'm not in the $10k price range much less $15k. I'll probably slowly tweak on it. If it had the Ivans fix and some suspension work it would be near perfect.

Ive done just what your list says (ivans work and suspension). The bike is nearly perfect for what I'm looking for.

I really think Kawasaki did a dis-service to this bike in trying to keep its price so low. For another 500, suspension could have been so much better.
 
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