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Bob, a master cylinder rebuild is cheap. You need a small set of snap ring pliers to rebuild it, and that's about it. It might not be worth messing around with the warranty. Especially if it involves towing the bike or covering g a lot of distance to have it repaired.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Well, I'm impressed, our local dealer is gonna come by tomorrow and pick up the bike, and "fix" it. That turned out a lot better than I feared, since they have a 6 week backlog of work. Someone told me that Kawasaki has an excellent reputation for warranty work. So, if not a bulging line, must be a seal in the master cylinder?? Question is, are other N1K owners in danger? As I said, had I had an emergency stop situation, I might be pushing up daisies.
 

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Bob, if you get dicked around too much, let me know. I have a good front master cylinder you can borrow. Send it back when you get yours dealt with. No charge. No obligation.

A good test for this is to start with a system that's properly bled. At that point, pull the lever in and use a zip ty to keep pressure on the system. Ideally, the pressure should still be there , hours from the time you ty up the lever. A good system will hold overnight. I think we would hear about more issues if people tried this. This "hold the lever in" works on front, or rear brakes.

This also let's you test the crush washers. I've had a few of those cause problems and refuse to seal.
 

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Try this, pump the brake lever and see if you recover pressure temporarily. If so then you need to rebuild the master cylinder,

A mechanic told me that, this is how he determines which is the issue.
1.He inspects for fluid. If he finds fluid then that's the problem. Fix the fluid leak, bleed, check. No leaks found then he does:
2.He pumps the lever and feels if it builds pressure. If it does and if it looses pressure gradually yet pumping recovers it, then he rebuilds the master cylinder. If you are not comfortable with this then go to the dealer but at least know it was probably the master cylinder. Maybe under warranty.
3.Could be ABS module problems but he didn't discuss that...plug in analyser... look for codes...? Go to the dealer.
 

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Ydo, that's not a bad way of checking. The problem is that a leaking crush washer will give the same symptoms. You could end up rebuilding a master cylinder when all you needed to do was tighten the line, or maybe replace the washer. Not likely on a new bike...but very possible when an owner has been goofing with the brake lines...
 

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Discussion Starter #27
When I pumped the lever, was only able to build up about 20% of normal pressure. I also let Kawasaki Corporate office know what happened. Bike scheduled to be picked up Weds.
 

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When I pumped the lever, was only able to build up about 20% of normal pressure. I also let Kawasaki Corporate office know what happened. Bike scheduled to be picked up Weds.
Sounds like Power Yamaha! Is it the one in Sublimity?
They have great service and warranties. They really back up a customer.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
OK, here's the latest, I'm told by my dealer that there is a blister or small bulge that occurs when the brake lever is sqeezed. This blister or pimple, that lady says, is about 2 inches up from the bottom of the right front brake line. I was not able to see the defect yet, nor speak to the tech that did the investigation. So, when I sqeezed the brake handle, and got only 20% brake pressure, the expanding blister or bulge or bubble or pimple, which did not leak I'm told, would explain what I was experiencing. The lady that coordinates or schedules bike maintenance said the next step is to see if Kawasaki will cover all this under warranty. She could not give me any gaurantees at this time. I don't know why. So it looks like a defective brake line, until I can get more info. The lady said it could be about a week or so before I hear, because of the Covid-19 mess. Will keep you posted. Thanks for every ones comments.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Update, I went back to dealer to ask more questions. Turns out there is damage, a rough cut, to the outside of the lower front right brake line. Brakes have full pressure now, but its cold. When I was riding, it was about 100 degrees out, and I was using the brakes a lot. So, the heat must have allowed the damage to allow a bubble, which reduced the brake pressure when I hit the brakes. So, cause of all this is existing damage to front brake line, probably from factory. I'm told this should be covered under warranty. Will update later.
 

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Bob, that's a strange one. I think it's the first failure I've heard about with the stock lines...lucky you? Anyway, I'm glad you found the issue. It's too bad they wont give you a cash credit. You could upgrade every line on the bike, and probably buy a new set of tires , for the cost of the replacement line, from Kawasaki.
 
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