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If you end up with new throttle bodies, hopefully you can get pictures of the old ones. It would be nice to know if they really are new, or different than the older ones.

If the actuator is the same, it doesnt appear to be that difficult to change. You would have to split the bodies apart, but that looks workable, if you had to.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
I generally ride F/1 and occasionally F/0 if I want to play and pull the front tire. I launch hard often and I would think TC kicks in but I am watching the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Dropped it off this morning and it may be normal but it pisses me off that they would not touch the bike unless I signed the service agreement that stated they can test the bike and I am 100% responsible.

Of course they have a mechanics lien to assure they get paid.

I doubt it will make a difference but scratched through what I didn’t agree with, initialed it and signed the agreement. And the service manager had them note not to take it off the lot. As far as I know a written agreement is binding in TX.

Whatever, I doubt anything will happen to it and it will be repaired. Sucks that my GT goes to the shop Monday so I will be stressed for a few weeks.
 

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It's too bad they couldn't have held the two week appointment and dropped it off two or three days before they were ready for it? Maybe they really will get to it earlier, and gave you a worst case timeline?

You know, I can hear Kawasaki telling them to clear the error and see if it returns.

I worked in the shops for several years. Sometimes it was necessary to ride someone's bike just to make sure an issue was dealt with. You would be surprised at what people complain about and having a non mechanical person bring a bike in, I'm not saying you are, but in general, it can be impossible to fix without riding it. And you also have to do a pre ride check, that pays nothing. If you dont, what do you do when the guy claims theres a new noise that wasnt there when he dropped it off. Or a scratch, broken tab off he plastic, etc.

The guys I worked with would never abuse a customers bike. It was strange, but you could almost get to know the owner, through the bike. The ways the controls were set up, and their accessories. It was different. Like you borrowed the bike from them.

The stuff that did get abused, right in the parking lot, was new bikes. New models that were cool. Even at that, you were paid a flat rate, per job. Something like a set of throttle bodies might pay you 45 minutes, maybe an hour. Maybe even less. The only way to make money was to beat that rate. If I could do the job, in 30 minutes, I still got paid for the hour, or whatever the scale said it was. You learned to not waste time and beating g on some bike was fun, but paid nothing. It was very possible to work 45-50 hours and get paid for 30.
 

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LSX, I have a 2018 all stock except for the 190/55 rear. 7,500 miles since new.

I took my bike for a ride yesterday. About 25 miles in I stopped for gas. When I was leaving the gas station, the ABS light went on and stayed on. WTF? I kept riding. 5 miles later I accelerated hard and noticed the power started to cut like it was running out of fuel. WTF? I stopped and shut off the engine for a minute. Re-started, ABS light went off, then went on again and stayed on. Damn! I accelerated hard again and this time the bike really started acting up like it was losing power and the KTRIC light went on and stayed on. I limped home, cussing and cursing these fully electronic bikes. I thought about your dilemma...could it be a common thing?

But then look what I found:
Untitled by rogue_biker, on Flickr

Look closer...the ABS sensor bolt is missing, causing the sensor to read incorrectly.
Untitled by rogue_biker, on Flickr

I zip tied the sensor back in. Rode around and all is well. All lights are gone. Bike running back to normal.

Is it possible that one of your ABS sensors are malfunctioning?
 

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Just as an aside, we have 4 owners in this discussion that have been running a 190x55 for sometime.

Agurudev= 3,000 miles, LSX = 1,500 miles, Rock = 11 months, OCL = 7,500 miles.

I could still be wrong (often happens) but if the change to a 190x55 is "border-line", then I would have expected to see more problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
LSX, I have a 2018 all stock except for the 190/55 rear. 7,500 miles since new.

I took my bike for a ride yesterday. About 25 miles in I stopped for gas. When I was leaving the gas station, the ABS light went on and stayed on. WTF? I kept riding. 5 miles later I accelerated hard and noticed the power started to cut like it was running out of fuel. WTF? I stopped and shut off the engine for a minute. Re-started, ABS light went off, then went on again and stayed on. Damn! I accelerated hard again and this time the bike really started acting up like it was losing power and the KTRIC light went on and stayed on. I limped home, cussing and cursing these fully electronic bikes. I thought about your dilemma...could it be a common thing?

But then look what I found:
by rogue_biker, on Flickr

Look closer...the ABS sensor bolt is missing, causing the sensor to read incorrectly.
by rogue_biker, on Flickr

I zip tied the sensor back in. Rode around and all is well. All lights are gone. Bike running back to normal.

Is it possible that one of your ABS sensors are malfunctioning?
No sir, the sensors are in place without damage. And the sensor functionality was tested per the FSM.

Glad you are not dealing with the same issue, a bolt is cheap!
 

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Murph, I know. That's doesnt make sense. Many had errors when they did a 190/55 AND a gearing change, but not when it was the tire, only.

My only thought, and it's just a thought. I'm not 100% "all in" on this, but what if the issue doesnt show until traction control is activated?

I wonder how consistent tire size is, between the various brands of tire? Is a Michelin 190/55 identical to a Dunlop 190/55? I doubt it is. It's probably very close, but if we are dealing with a small window of allowable size, maybe some are slightly too large? Or, the profile might not match up as the bike is leaned?
 

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RC, the difference in rolling diameter between brands are going to be well within the tolerances of wear. I'm 100% sure the software designers have built this in. Otherwise, they end up locking in their customers to only one specific brand of and size of tire. Unreasonable for sure. But I'm sure at some point, they may. Just look at how manufacturers have locked out their ECM's.
 

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No sir, the sensors are in place without damage. And the sensor functionality was tested per the FSM.

Glad you are not dealing with the same issue, a bolt is cheap!
I was hoping it's that simple.

Here's my take.....based on troubleshooting issues on other bikes. Sometimes you check something and it appears fine. But it's not. Other times something you were sure was the culprit, ends up being not the problem at all and it is something completely unexpected and often simple to fix. But you spent time chasing down ghosts, spending all kinds of money.....it's frustrating. This is why I never rule out the simplest explanation.

If we think about it logically, TC/ABS only gets its input from the ABS sensor/rings, and throttle position. The only thing that will get the ABS/KTRIC lights to go on is when those two things are off balance. Maybe check the ABS sensor rings for damage? Bent? Sometimes hard objects such as rocks can damage those delicate rings too. I know you already checked them but it won't hurt to do it again. Is there a TPS somewhere on the TB? I'm sure there is. Of course now the bike is in the hands of the dealer who won't even look at the bike for week. Most likely they will go through and just start replacing things until the issue is resolved...or not.
 

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Keep in mind that LSX already found the actual issue that is resulting the the Engine/TCS lights, which was a low resistance reading on exactly the piece of equipment the error code was referencing. Again, taking this into account, the search for the reason the Engine/TCS lights are on and TCS is disabled is over. The only thing left is to figure out what caused the device resistance to degrade.
 

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So given that Kratos, he tested current and everything else so it has to either be sensors or an ecu/imu error itself no?
 

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I'm not sure I would be ready to say he found the issue based on the resistance value. Open, or a short makes sense, but this piece still functions well enough to open the blades. His bike still runs, normally, or ok enough for him to not mention a problem. Also, there is a vacuum pulling against these blades that tires to shut them. This motor is bad, but at the same time, strong enough to overcome the spring that tries to pull them closed, and the vacuum pulling g them closed with a running engine?

Rock, that's the trouble with mods. Rock, if you called in to a tech support service and told them you were replacing a FUNCTIONING motor, based on resistance values, they would either laugh at you, or hang up. Especially if you told them this piece failed at exactly the same time traction control kicked in? They wouldnt stay on the line long enough for you to explain that you are feeding incorrect info to its control device.
 

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I would say it has to be a component within the actuator assembly itself, resistor, transistor, etc...., whatever device was used to regulate the voltage.
Since the ECU is not seeing the correct voltage or resistance range at the actuator, that is why it is triggering the Engine/TCS lights and disabling the TCS.
 

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So we don't know what's wrong unless that actuator is replaced with one that is showing the correct resistance and the engine works like normal.
 

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I'm not sure I would be ready to say he found the issue based on the resistance value. Open, or a short makes sense, but this piece still functions well enough to open the blades. His bike still runs, normally, or ok enough for him to not mention a problem.

Those plates stay closed with spring pressure. It's not a lot, but there is some pressure needed to open them. If the motor is strong enough to open them, that's all it's being asked to do, anyway.

Right, that is exactly the point. Given that fact that it is not an open, (if the circuit was open, you would get no current flow and the resistance measurement would be higher, not lower) current still does flow, so the STP's will still operate. The problem is that the voltage is out of the range expected by the ECU because the resistance level of the component is too low. Again, the STP actuator doesn't care about the voltage range, the ECU/TCS system does.
 

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So we don't know what's wrong unless that actuator is replaced with one that is showing the correct resistance and the engine works like normal.
That would be my take-away from all the data that has been presented in this thread.

1. Would be interesting to see if the resistance measurement continues to drop as the bike is ridden (check it again in a few weeks).
2. If you could get another known good actuator, would be interesting to take measurements of the new and "defective" one before connecting to the bike.
 
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Discussion Starter #79
I'm not sure I would be ready to say he found the issue based on the resistance value. Open, or a short makes sense, but this piece still functions well enough to open the blades. His bike still runs, normally, or ok enough for him to not mention a problem. Also, there is a vacuum pulling against these blades that tires to shut them. This motor is bad, but at the same time, strong enough to overcome the spring that tries to pull them closed, and the vacuum pulling g them closed with a running engine?

Let's make a deal, I will cave to you and say it's the 190/55 and buy a new 190/50 and reset the codes IF...

...YOU, never, ever, type these four letters in a post again IVAN :D
 
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