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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Did my first oil change on my '19 n1k. Man was it a bear. That oil filter was put on very tight, I had to punch a hole in it with a screwdriver to break it loose. I also ended up having to take off the left side fairing to really get to the filter which I was trying to avoid doing. I used motul 7100 full synthetic and a k&n filter. I did notice the old oil I drained had a ton of metal filings from the engine breaking in which is expected. Bike was at 650 miles when change was done. I would like to know what others use for oil and filter brands.
 

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Much discussion has been made here concerning oil and filters. I have used Mobil One 4T for years and the Kawasaki filter. I also found that the stock filter was on very tight. Wait until you try to remove the front countershaft sprocket!! They have a gorilla tightening that one at the factory!!!
 

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You fought the filter and won. That makes it official.... your in the club. JJ

Before giving my 2 cents on oil..... not sure if your aware of this about our bikes but there's a chance that the oiling system can become air locked during an oil change and also a tip over. You'll know it is air locked because of the red low oil pressure light on the dash, it will remain on. Lots of threads on it but it boils down to "burping the filter" when this happens. At least one owner didnt know this and lost a motor after driving it for what sounded like a few miles. Just an FYI.

As for oil type and filter that I run. Oh boy here gos.

Tried Rotella T6 but felt it shifted notchy.
Tried Valvoline 4T and liked it in cooler weather but felt shifting wasn't as smooth when ambient temperatures exceeded 90 degrees F and pushing the bike.
Tried Motul 7100 10w60 and can report shifting was great no matter what temperature it was or how hard I was riding. Just couldn't justify the cost.
Settled on Lucas full synthetic 10W-40 from September to May. Its when temperatures in Texas can get below 40 degrees F but normally aren't above 90 by much or for long.
Starting in June though first oil change is switched to their 20W 50. Started that last year and have found no matter how hard I push the bike in temperatures above 90 or even 100 it still shifts the same.

As for oil filter I run a Fram XG 7317.
Cheers
Kenneth
 

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I agree with the Rotella comments. For the first 500 miles, it felt ok. At that point, shifting became notch. I've noticed this on three other bikes, so that ended that experiment. I know many use it and never complain.

You can buy real Kawasaki filters, on Ebay, for about 12.00 each. On this bike, warranty really is no concern, but if something engine related went badly, I would want a Kawasaki branded oil filter in place when I went to the shop.

That tight filter thing has been going on since 2011. The only thing tighter than the oil filter is the nut that holds the front sprocket on. That's bad, too, or always was. I'm sure we could organize a group to find whoever did this and kick their ***. It's probably a machine, but still.
 

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https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Filter-Wrench-Tool-57001-1249/dp/B07D4Q7RM4/ref=asc_df_B07D4Q7RM4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=318779389843&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12139646108845930722&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031565&hvtargid=pla-647174218221&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63350251917&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=318779389843&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12139646108845930722&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031565&hvtargid=pla-647174218221

I used this and OEM filter came out without any struggles. I actually used the Honda version and it still worked on the Kawi.

I used the Motul 5100 10w40 Synthetic blend. No issues with shifting no matter the outside temperature, no matter the miles on it. Used it on both my 2018 and 2012. I have no plans to go full synthetic either.
 

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Money

https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Fil...t=&hvlocphy=9031565&hvtargid=pla-647174218221

I used this and OEM filter came out without any struggles. I actually used the Honda version and it still worked on the Kawi.

I used the Motul 5100 10w40 Synthetic blend. No issues with shifting no matter the outside temperature, no matter the miles on it. Used it on both my 2018 and 2012. I have no plans to go full synthetic either.



41 bucks?? man, thats expensive...10 bucks maybe!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys for the advise, I knew about the air being in the engine during an oil change and made sure the light went out when I put in the initial amount of oil and when I topped it off after the initial engine start. I'll let you guys know how the motul works out.
 

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I had to buy one of those expensive filter wrenches, for work. It's a larger filter than we use, but the idea is the same. The thing is awesome, and probably worth the 40.00. Much stronger than the cheep ones I would buy for myself.

The cool thing I also "had" to buy was a filter cutter. What good is an oil filter if you cant see I side of it, right.? Right...? This cutter works on all sizes of filters and you can open these sealed filters like a can of soup.
 

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I presume you used the k&n filter with the nut on the end, should solve the problem you had with the original,,.
Contrary to advise Ive received, I hand tighten and then give it another 1/3 of a turn seems to work and sleep better at night,,.
One of the things I like about this bike is you don't normally have to remove anything else to access the drain plug and filter?
 
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The oil filter socket works great
 

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Unless you want to save the old oil filter, and have it bronzed, a screwdriver, pushed through its side, makes an awesome handle.
 

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I recently found oil change kits on amazon. They are actually well priced.
- 4 quarts of oil
- filter
- crush washer
you can get standard oil for $45 or synthetic for $65, its not a bad deal in my book and if you have prime it comes straight to your door. I bought a filter and a gallon of oil and crush washer last weekend from the local shop... the oil alone was nearly 40, the filter was an insane 15, and the crush washer.... I wish I had a receipt but i think it was nearly 3 dollars *eyeroll*

heres the synthetic
https://www.amazon.com/2013-Kawsaki-NINJA-Synthetic-Change/dp/B00BSZ23HE/

and standard
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H7R6DLN/
 

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Oh yeah that's the way to go. Huge savings.

After years of using super expensive full synthetic oil, then changing at or before the factory recommended service intervals, I've come to the conclusion that spending that much on oil that you will throw away BEFORE the interval is a waste of money. In fact, the very purpose of synthetic oil is LONGER oil life. Why change the synthetic at the factory recommended service interval that was designed for standard oil? It makes very little sense but it makes us feel good. I have a friend never used synthetic on his Honda motorcycles, rode them to 100k miles, and never had any issues. No engine leaks, no burned valves, no oil burning. This guy just used Pro Honda oils all the time.

I mentioned before that some of the premium auto brands ship their cars with Synthetic oil, and they have VERY LONG service intervals. Like 15k - 30k miles. Seriously! But their engines also carry A LOT of oil. Sometimes 15 quarts. Our motorcycle motors usually carry 4 quarts, give or take 1/2 quart for a 4 cylinder engine. They also have wet clutches. So their designed to live well on regular oil changed at or near the factory recommended intervals. Thicker oil, or full synthetic oil on these engines won't do any harm but it won't give you that much benefit if you change the oil early or at the 7,500 miles.
 

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Done it in a pinch,,. Only concern is what's the back up if that doesn't work after you have shreaded the filter!!
I like the nut on the end, or the filter nut attachement which Im too cheap to buy as I allready own 3 different sizes in the old filter wrench style..!!
Unless you want to save the old oil filter, and have it bronzed, a screwdriver, pushed through its side, makes an awesome handle.
 
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I agree,,,,,I pointlessly fudge on the short side but not as bad as some,,. I do 10,000 KM's with full synthetic, it is a bit early but kindah works out to once a year on each of my bikes,,. Next to gas, tires are the biggest expence!!

Oh yeah that's the way to go. Huge savings.

After years of using super expensive full synthetic oil, then changing at or before the factory recommended service intervals, I've come to the conclusion that spending that much on oil that you will throw away BEFORE the interval is a waste of money. In fact, the very purpose of synthetic oil is LONGER oil life. Why change the synthetic at the factory recommended service interval that was designed for standard oil? It makes very little sense but it makes us feel good. I have a friend never used synthetic on his Honda motorcycles, rode them to 100k miles, and never had any issues. No engine leaks, no burned valves, no oil burning. This guy just used Pro Honda oils all the time.

I mentioned before that some of the premium auto brands ship their cars with Synthetic oil, and they have VERY LONG service intervals. Like 15k - 30k miles. Seriously! But their engines also carry A LOT of oil. Sometimes 15 quarts. Our motorcycle motors usually carry 4 quarts, give or take 1/2 quart for a 4 cylinder engine. They also have wet clutches. So their designed to live well on regular oil changed at or near the factory recommended intervals. Thicker oil, or full synthetic oil on these engines won't do any harm but it won't give you that much benefit if you change the oil early or at the 7,500 miles.
 

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I did the screwdriver trick on an Audi oil filter put on REAL tight at the factory. Didn't work. Shredded the filter.

Back up: tow car to dealership, pay someone to do it, swallow pride.

Get the wrench. Cheaper than towing. :D
 

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Once the filter housing is ripped apart, you have the top to work with. That has some strength to it. Two Phillip's screwdrivers, and an "h" pattern. We have a a machine....in fact, I'm standing by the son of a *****..... It welds filters in place. On the motorcycles, it is easy to get to.

Really, on any of these forums, the oil talk is constant. You just dont hear of oil failures, or clutch failures , from oil. Even car oil. I know people who have no idea there is such thing as motorcycle oil. It gets used a lot.

Transmissions bet messed up from improperly used, or timed quickshifters. The ninjas and z 1000's will lose gears, occasionally, but it's not like an oil related fail when teeth fall off. I get the feeling this oil is all good enough, and maybe the top end stuff is better, but all are above that bottom line. Even our nina clutch "issue". Although oil related, it's not oil quality related.
 

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My oil wrenches of choice. The top one is a cheapie Harbor Freight one. It started slipping at the joint to adjust size, but worked great for years. I recently bought the ChannelLock versions, small and larger. I don't care how tight or how screwed up the filter is, these will get the filter off.

 
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