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2 votes for going synthetic but theres nothing wrong with a blend either. My only recommendation is dont use Rotella T6. Made the trans shift stiff.
 

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My personal flavor.
29331
 

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Us old guys remember when you used to need to break in engines but with modern Japanese metallurgy and finishes there is practically no break-in needed. Take your pick, you can't go wrong.
 
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Any good quality oil will do, just make certain it contains no friction modifiers which would make the clutch slip. Best bet is to stick with a motorcycle specific oil. I prefer synthetic and have always used Mobil One 4T.
 
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I think some of us have been around this forum, or rider forum, for almost 10 yrs. In all that time, I cant recall a single oil related failure. Maybe 3 or 4 members with transmission issues. There were several clutch issues on the earlier bikes, but not that many.

Based on that, grab something that says, "oil" on the label and you should be fine.
 

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so that was two posts for two votes? 😄
That's twice that's happened. Well looks like I'm represented anyway.
 

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I agree with you RC, with the exception of maybe olive oil and other related cooking oils. :D
My motorcycle has about 18600 mile on it, a 2014 Ninja. Runs like a MFer. I was gentle with the break in and pretty much did like the Manual called for. Remember, the motor and transmission, and other moving parts should be brought to to spec together..Just my take...
 

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I think some of us have been around this forum, or rider forum, for almost 10 yrs. In all that time, I cant recall a single oil related failure. Maybe 3 or 4 members with transmission issues. There were several clutch issues on the earlier bikes, but not that many.

Based on that, grab something that says, "oil" on the label and you should be fine.
Just because you haven't had an oil related engine failure, doesn't mean you don't use a better product that provides superior protection. Synthetics help the engine make more power, and run cooler. Synthetics in a hot street car, in the engine and tranny, will make around 20 more rear wheel horsepower. I suspect there are few folks with a nice Ninja 1000, that would be ok with putting the cheapest oil on the shelf in their bike, simply because of no reported engine failures. Now if they are dirt poor, and can't feed the family, then I can see it. You also get superior protection when starting your bike in cold weather. Would imagine on a motorcycle engine with 100,000+ miles, there would be more cam lobe wear, bearing wear, ring wear, etc, if using conventional oil.
 

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Bob, you would have a great point if the context of the conversation was related to the car that makes the 20 extra hp. It doesnt. This is a machine specific forum, and the poster did not ask about his car, or someone else's car. He asked about the Ninja 1000.

As far as the motorcycle wearing less, after 100,000 miles...what you imagine, and what's real, are two different things. You would know this if you took the time to do research, Instead of guessing. It's sad, really, because people have put a lot of time, effort and money behind this topic, yet so few care to become informed. People send in oil samples, and post results.

Once you do the research it's difficult to not get sidetracked by this. Odds are, a motorcycle will get crashed , and totaled long before it's close to "wearing out".
 

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Bob, you would have a great point if the context of the conversation was related to the car that makes the 20 extra hp. It doesnt. This is a machine specific forum, and the poster did not ask about his car, or someone else's car. He asked about the Ninja 1000.

As far as the motorcycle wearing less, after 100,000 miles...what you imagine, and what's real, are two different things. You would know this if you took the time to do research, Instead of guessing. It's sad, really, because people have put a lot of time, effort and money behind this topic, yet so few care to become informed. People send in oil samples, and post results.

Once you do the research it's difficult to not get sidetracked by this. Odds are, a motorcycle will get crashed , and totaled long before it's close to "wearing out".
A four stroke motor is the same, whether in a car or motorcycle. And the motorcycle engine sees much more internal intensity, friction, stress, and heat wise, due to its high revving capability, and more hp per cc.
Did I mention less sludge buildup? lol
 

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Bob, all great points and awesome ideas. Let's re-visit this as soon as you find a worn out ninja 1000, or one suffering from sludge build up. At that point, you can see if your oil would have made a difference.

Stress? Get real. In our family, we have a 2009 Mazda 3. 2.0 liter and it supposed to make 148 hp. We will pretend it does. The car weighs 2500lbs. Closer to 3000lbs with people in it. It's the spare car, so it sits a lot. Even at that, it has 46,000 miles on it.

My ninja does make the same horsepower, on half the displacement. There is some added stress there, on paper, until you think about the work its doing. It weighs 465lbs. At most, it's going to carry a total weight of 665lbs. It's also driven a hell of a lot less miles. Have a look at the driveline and tell me which one is under more stress.

For sure there can be some advantages to synthetic. If you are in an application where those advantages help you, then buy it. I buy it just to make me feel better, and I can do this for an extra 8.00, per oil change. But, when I do it, I know I'm doing it to feel better. I havent bullshitted myself into thinking its helping, or doing a more-better job. I also know it's not going to have any advantage when I change it, yearly, and I'm not leaving it in any longer than that, no matter what I buy. So basically I'm throwing away 8.00. And if I think I'm paying an extra 8.00, for 4 quarts, and getting a substantially better product, then I'm really stupid.

But solving sludge issues that dont exsist, and wear issues that dont exsist isnt going to help anyone.

I also imagine you'll fill your Depends and sell the wheels off your trailer when I tell you that "convential" oil can be called "synthetic" if it meets the same standards. They count on people, like you, to spend money based on ignorance.

 

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Bob, all great points and awesome ideas. Let's re-visit this as soon as you find a worn out ninja 1000, or one suffering from sludge build up. At that point, you can see if your oil would have made a difference.

Stress? Get real. In our family, we have a 2009 Mazda 3. 2.0 liter and it supposed to make 148 hp. We will pretend it does. The car weighs 2500lbs. Closer to 3000lbs with people in it. It's the spare car, so it sits a lot. Even at that, it has 46,000 miles on it.

My ninja does make the same horsepower, on half the displacement. There is some added stress there, on paper, until you think about the work its doing. It weighs 465lbs. At most, it's going to carry a total weight of 665lbs. It's also driven a hell of a lot less miles. Have a look at the driveline and tell me which one is under more stress.

For sure there can be some advantages to synthetic. If you are in an application where those advantages help you, then buy it. I buy it just to make me feel better, and I can do this for an extra 8.00, per oil change. But, when I do it, I know I'm doing it to feel better. I havent bullshitted myself into thinking its helping, or doing a more-better job. I also know it's not going to have any advantage when I change it, yearly, and I'm not leaving it in any longer than that, no matter what I buy. So basically I'm throwing away 8.00. And if I think I'm paying an extra 8.00, for 4 quarts, and getting a substantially better product, then I'm really stupid.

But solving sludge issues that dont exsist, and wear issues that dont exsist isnt going to help anyone.

I also imagine you'll fill your Depends and sell the wheels off your trailer when I tell you that "convential" oil can be called "synthetic" if it meets the same standards. They count on people, like you, to spend money based on ignorance.

I understand now, motorcycle folks that buy synthetic oil for their bikes, are ignorant. Thanks Cannon for clearing that up.
 

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Bob, you would buy it out of ignorance. You've already shown us you are unable to control your throttle. How would a person like that be capable of understanding when and why they might use synthetic oil?

Most others buy it because it makes them feel better. That can be worth a lot.
 

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Bob, you would have a great point if the context of the conversation was related to the car that makes the 20 extra hp. It doesnt. This is a machine specific forum, and the poster did not ask about his car, or someone else's car. He asked about the Ninja 1000.

As far as the motorcycle wearing less, after 100,000 miles...what you imagine, and what's real, are two different things. You would know this if you took the time to do research, Instead of guessing. It's sad, really, because people have put a lot of time, effort and money behind this topic, yet so few care to become informed. People send in oil samples, and post results.

Once you do the research it's difficult to not get sidetracked by this. Odds are, a motorcycle will get crashed , and totaled long before it's close to "wearing out".
I asked the service tech what he recommended and suggested regular oil or 50/50 regular and synthetic for the 600 mile oil change. He said to go full synthetic rather than 50/50, so, that’s what we did. Looking forward to full power when I next ride, but Phoenix is awfully hot right now. On a separate subject, Kawasaki just shipped my OEM luggage, it could arrive tomorrow.
 

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I think some of us have been around this forum, or rider forum, for almost 10 yrs. In all that time, I cant recall a single oil related failure. Maybe 3 or 4 members with transmission issues. There were several clutch issues on the earlier bikes, but not that many.

Based on that, grab something that says, "oil" on the label and you should be fine.
RC,

I still have some Kawi Dino oil to use up, but was wondering how many miles do you go between oil changes?

Bc2
 
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