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Bmac, the difference here is I know what I'm talking about.
That is the problem in a nutshell. You really do think you do know more than anyone else, yet it is clear from your repeated posts on the 2020+ that you know very little and have ZERO experience riding one.
 

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No experience riding the 2020. You have me there, but my bike is like a 2020 if a 2020 were set up properly, with 2000.00 worth of suspension work and 1000.00 worth of brakes. Yes, it's awesome, thank you. 147 hp and 465 lbs doesnt suck as compared to what you ride.

What else? 49 years more experience, than you, as a motorcycle rider. We will pretend you have 5 years of experience. Higher IQ is obvious as I would know a 2020 didnt need a 190/55 and understand the ramifications a change like that would mean.


How do you get past trusting Kawasaki with how the engine runs, but you dont trust them to chose the proper rear tire size? How does someone do that and think anyone else knows less? That's special needs thinking...with no offense meant to special needs. My god, at least they trust people, or dont...not halfway.
 

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What else? 49 years more experience, than you, as a motorcycle rider. We will pretend you have 5 years of experience. Higher IQ is obvious as I would know a 2020 didnt need a 190/55 and understand the ramifications a change like that would mean.
Well, I guess congratulations are in order. I have never met anyone with 110 years of motorcycling experience. That has be a record.
 

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Obviously ABS has SOME latitude in the tires ODs. It has to in order to work when one tire is new and the other is well worn.
 

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Getting back on topic... I haven't received a reply email, but I am thinking he may have our model confused with another bike, since the ECU is under the seat.
 

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Obviously ABS has SOME latitude in the tires ODs. It has to in order to work when one tire is new and the other is well worn.
For sure this would be true. The systems would be able to account for a new/worn 190 series tire. When a 190/55 is substituted, he hopes it will, but has no idea if it really will.
 

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I'm sure tolerances allow for the variance between a new and worn tire, but two things, one; the wear on a 50 actually puts it at a greater distance from a 55, not closer, so a tolerance that would address wear would not be calibrated to go in the opposite direction, and two, the difference between a 50 and a 55 is far greater than a worn 50 vs a new 50, or a new 50 vs a worn 55.

Not sure if it was just psychological or not but when I put my 55 on I did notice the abs intervened in similar instances where it did not with the stock tire. Just seemed a touch more sensitive.
 

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Rock, you know if that's all the risk was, no one would care. That wouldnt be a big deal. What about if this is a bigger deal when the bike slips, when leaned over? We already have an owner who isnt capable of opening and closing his throttle? How would he manage a situation where his rear tire slips?

I'll tell you how this would go. The tire would slip more because of the feces running down his leg.
 

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There's really not much you can do about feces. Too much variation in viscosity to calibrate within an acceptable range.
Let's just hope there comes a day when throttle control has zero importance :rolleyes:
.
 

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I'm sure tolerances allow for the variance between a new and worn tire, but two things, one; the wear on a 50 actually puts it at a greater distance from a 55, not closer, so a tolerance that would address wear would not be calibrated to go in the opposite direction, and two, the difference between a 50 and a 55 is far greater than a worn 50 vs a new 50, or a new 50 vs a worn 55.

Not sure if it was just psychological or not but when I put my 55 on I did notice the abs intervened in similar instances where it did not with the stock tire. Just seemed a touch more sensitive.
Interesting observation, but wouldn't a taller tire be more likely cause a delay in response of the ABS, if anything? Either way I suspect the cycle time on the ABS is quick enough that a any difference in response time would likely be insignificant.
 

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Ok, back from a 150 mile run today on my 2021. I did remember to try 1. Throttle on, 1600rpm, 6th gear; and 2. Hard off/on throttle at 4,000rpm.
1. Lovely induction roar and pulled surprisingly well. Linear surge. Don't know what rccannon was expecting to go wrong, but it was fine.
2. I tried this in 2nd to 6th gears. When I snapped the throttle off I got smooth engine braking. Not savage or unpredictable. With snap back on, the bike just took off. In a couple of gears I repeated it several times, to see if I could confuse it, but it was fine.
Conclusion, from a real world test: Not sure what the fuss and childish slurs is all about. I'm genuinely very happy with how the throttle responds to my inputs. Not saying my bike's perfect, e.g. not that impressed with the stock suspension settings on all but the smoothest tarmac. But that's another story.
 

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I thought this article was interesting. Several real experts, from different companies. They asked about what different tires do to traction control and abs.

The lack of answers is what's interesting. None of the experts can tell you what will happen. Not that they would. No one would be foolish enough to sign off on a tire change.

Mart, somewhere in the on/off range, you'll find fuel cut. I dont know exactly where it will start. I know exactly where it was, on the older bikes, but I'm not going to disclose that.

Kawasaki has had ten years to perfect this system, and it has gotten better every year, but what your getting, with ride by wire, is what you see with any of the ride by wire bikes. That would be power restrictions in the lower gears. Just because you open the throttle 100%, you really dont get that. You get what the ecu thinks you want, and what it will allow. You wouldnt want to whack the throttle on mine wide open, unless you were ready as you really will see 100% throttle.

There are ways to hide/minimize fuel cut, especially with ride by wire. Doing so doesnt fix it. It hides it through restrictions. Shutting the throttle, and getting engine breaking isnt something I would be willing to put up with.

 

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Most interesting articles. Especially the follow on article link about the Bosch IMU. Good stuff.

Since I like engine braking and incorporate it into my riding I was disappointed in that part of Ivan's flash. I would not like my engine breaking, however. I doubt anyone would. :)
 
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Most interesting articles. Especially the follow on article link about the Bosch IMU. Good stuff.

Since I like engine braking and incorporate it into my riding I was disappointed in that part of Ivan's flash. I would not like my engine breaking, however. I doubt anyone would. :)
Kenors...FWIW ...I too like engine braking. I thought I was the only one LOL, which is why I don't talk about it whenever Ivans flash is be discussed. The owners manual of my zx14r encourages engine braking.
 

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Engine braking was awesome back when we didn't have good brakes. On the old bikes, it was almost mandatory. Now? Look at the front of our bikes. Look at the two disc's brakes. Newer bikes have 50% of the weight on the front wheel. More when you are braking. It's doesn't make good sense to brake with the rear wheel. Especially with abs. Abs means you don't even have to be good at using your brakes.

It also doesn't light up a brake light, so no one behind you knows you are slowing.

It's one thing that could be called a preference, but it's not a great thing to do. It's It's good habit to stop. Especially if someone is cornering. You need weight, up front, if you want to do it, correctly.
 

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Kenors...FWIW ...I too like engine braking. I thought I was the only one LOL, which is why I don't talk about it whenever Ivans flash is be discussed. The owners manual of my zx14r encourages engine braking.
You are, by no means, alone. I suspect the silent majority is right there with you. Engine braking is very useful tool for an experienced rider. All of my bikes have it and it is not something I would ever want to eliminate. The lack of engine braking was one thing I really disliked about my two strokes.
 

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Kenors...FWIW ...I too like engine braking. I thought I was the only one LOL, which is why I don't talk about it whenever Ivans flash is be discussed. The owners manual of my zx14r encourages engine braking.
FWIF, one of the first then I noticed, well actually the second, the first was seating posture, but on the road the first was the low gearing. It was like they put a granny gear on a street bike, 2nd should be first, 3rd second, 4th, third, 5th fourth, then 6th should be 5th gear! The third thing was the engine braking! At first thought was that my ZX14 should have more engine braking as it has more torque, but then It stuck me it was mostly in the gearing.

Was this your impression also that the N1K has more felt effect of engine braking than your zx14r, or is it just me?

On topic, after 13K miles on the 2020 N1K, I really don't think I need a reflash. Of course I'm not riding it as hard as I did the ZX14's, but the throttle is plenty smooth, and power is plenty ample for the street. I think re-gearing front and rear sprockets would be a much better investment than a reflash if anyone will ever do it. I don;t think it can be done.
 
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If engine braking is a good idea, or a good habit, then it also has to be a good idea to brake using only the rear brake...even worse as it doesn't light up a tail light.

As you can see by the new bikes being sold, the majority also needs abs , traction control, and engine restrictions to save their lives. Even that isn't foolproof.

I could care less what group someone chooses to side with.
 

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Engine braking was awesome back when we didn't have good brakes. On the old bikes, it was almost mandatory. Now? Look at the front of our bikes. Look at the two disc's brakes. Newer bikes have 50% of the weight on the front wheel. More when you are braking. It's doesn't make good sense to brake with the rear wheel. Especially with abs. Abs means you don't even have to be good at using your brakes.

It also doesn't light up a brake light, so no one behind you knows you are slowing.

It's one thing that could be called a preference, but it's not a great thing to do. It's It's good habit to stop. Especially if someone is cornering. You need weight, up front, if you want to do it, correctly.
FWIF, one of the first then I noticed, well actually the second, the first was seating posture, but on the road the first was the low gearing. It was like they put a granny gear on a street bike, 2nd should be first, 3rd second, 4th, third, 5th fourth, then 6th should be 5th gear! The third thing was the engine braking! At first thought was that my ZX14 should have more engine braking as it has more torque, but then It stuck me it was mostly in the gearing.

Was this your impression also that the N1K has more felt effect of engine braking than your zx14r, or is it just me?

On topic, after 13K miles on the 2020 N1K, I really don't think I need a reflash. Of course I'm not riding it as hard as I did the ZX14's, but the throttle is plenty smooth, and power is plenty ample for the street. I think re-gearing front and rear sprockets would be a much better investment than a reflash if anyone will ever do it. I don;t think it can be done.
I am not really sure. Although my 2 N1ks were earlier versions(2011,2015) and my zx is 2019 with a full akra its hard to compare. Gun to my head I think my unflashed N1ks had more engine braking.
 
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