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It was suggested that I start a new thread on my experience so first I hope this is the right place to put this and if it is not would a mod please move it to the appropriate place.

I recently installed a full Black Widow exhaust on my 2018 N1K and have been very satisfied so far and I had intended to place it on the dyno here in my town to see the difference (if any) between the stock exhaust and the Black Widow. In the interest of making sure the bike wasn't running lean/rich I wanted to get my ECU flashed with a custom map based on a free flowing exhaust and K&N filter so I came out here to this forum to do some research.

After doing some searches out here I saw several threads about the 2017/18 N1K's having issues getting flashes due to the ECU's being encrypted. There did appear to be some options though 1) send to Woolich and they can hack into the ECU and apply a map or 2) send to Nel's (2Wheel Dynoworks) and they would send to Woolich for the hack and then 2WDW would apply a custom map. Since 2WDW advertised on their site that they had a custom map for the 2018 N1K and supported Black Widow I thought I'd send to them.

I sent 2WDW an email asking about their service and they very promptly answered me back. They assured me that they indeed did support the 2018 and have had good results with both the 2017/18. They also said that they'd turn it around within 24 hours. I was a bit skeptical at this after reading several threads out here but even if they did have to send it to Woolich and it took longer I really wanted to get it done so I took the chance. I overnighted it (super expensive btw) to them on Wed (8/1). They received it at noon the next day and shipped it back out to me at 4:30p on 8/2. I received it back from them on Saturday 8/4. This was pretty impressive to me.

When I put it in the bike everything started up fine and I had no errors or warnings. Throttle response was smoother for sure, engine braking was slightly less in my opinion and the bike runs cooler. The fan definitely turns on sooner now. Supposedly the RPM limits have been adjusted but I'm not certain if that means the rev limit is different or if that relates to something else...if someone knows please educate me. All that was good. What I'm not sure about is all the popping and crackling on deceleration and I'm getting a pop up shifting between some gears. Below is a link to the video I released tonight kind of covering the above so you all can hear what I'm talking about.

Really interested to hear what you guys think about this, I have submitted the same video to 2WDW to get a response from them as well. I suspect that something is off but then again I'm absolutely not an expert. Extra power would be great but what I'm really after is just a smooth bike that sounds good and I want to make sure that I'm not damaging anything with the aftermarket exhaust.

 

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When you send ecu's, a really cheap (cheaper?)way of doing it is using the post office Mylar envelopes....No boxes...It has to be the envelope.

The envelope is flat rate, 25.00, anywhere in the USA.Closer to 30 all insured. Fed Ex, or UPS can often times be 100, or more, as you know.

I'm not sure how many times I shipped Utah to New York. Probably close to 10 shipments. 2 times they were late,..and that's if I shipped out on Saturday, looking for a Monday morning delivery. The others don't even have that available. The two times they were late, they gave me the money back.
 

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I was the first 2017/18 N1K owner that Two WheelDynoWorks/Woolich worked with .....

Did you disconnect your O2 sensor?
Popping can occur when there are leaks in your exhaust (ie: where the headers mount, or where the header meets the muffler)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I was the first 2017/18 N1K owner that Two WheelDynoWorks/Woolich worked with .....

Did you disconnect your O2 sensor?
Popping can occur when there are leaks in your exhaust (ie: where the headers mount, or where the header meets the muffler)
I did not disconnect the O2 sensor and 2WDW replied to email last night after I posted this and the video (really responsive these guys and it remains impressive, great customer service) They said I need to remove the O2 sensor and perform a PAIR mod. The O2 sensor is easy and I'll get that tonight. As for the other, I'll start doing my homework today. All seems reasonable to me and I dont think any of it is beyond an afternoon in the garage. I will also check aggressively for exhaust leaks but I have done a not so aggressive hands around the pipes and I'm not detecting any air movement.

Thanks for the assistance! Any advice on the PAIR mod guys? I'll start searching but if any of you know of a thread that details this I'd be grateful. I'm glad to hear that this is probably not something serious at this point and just requires so additional modifications. I'll keep everyone updated!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When you send ecu's, a really cheap (cheaper?)way of doing it is using the post office Mylar envelopes....No boxes...It has to be the envelope.

The envelope is flat rate, 25.00, anywhere in the USA.Closer to 30 all insured. Fed Ex, or UPS can often times be 100, or more, as you know.

I'm not sure how many times I shipped Utah to New York. Probably close to 10 shipments. 2 times they were late,..and that's if I shipped out on Saturday, looking for a Monday morning delivery. The others don't even have that available. The two times they were late, they gave me the money back.
Yes, I should have considered that but when I first pulled it from the bike and considered I was basically shipping a computer I wanted to be sure that it was protected and I think I may have been a little over zealous about that which cost me $$$. Live and learn but I appreciate the advice and if I ever have to do that again I'll know what to do. Thank you!
 

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Another great video! Watching your video I was thinking two things I would probably try, the PAIR mod and/or switch out your K&N filter back to stock and see if that reduces the popping. I have the cat still on my bike but I have Delkavic slip-ons with the stock air filter. I have very small subtle slightly air leaks on my pipes I can feel on my finger tips where it connects to the slip-on but iv never paid much attention to it because I have never had a single pop on deceleration or shifting.
 

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The ecu is back, and in one piece.....thats hard to complain about, no matter the price.



Regarding the Pair Valve.....You dont exactly need to remove it, now, or forever. I ended up removing mine when I added a power commander as I already had the plastic off, and the tank removed.


For you, right now, your bike does not need plugs, or the power commander. If you want to avoid digging into your bike, all you really need to do is stop the air from entering the valve.


My bike is a California emissions equipped bike, and yours is newer, so it might be different. I had two hoses to block. Both were accessible from the inside of the airbox.


I dont think this picture is of a ninja 1000 pair valve, but they are all so similar, it does not matter.


If you block the open hose, that wont let air into the system. That hose connects to the bottom of the airbox. I think people used marbles, 3/8 bolts...pretty much anything to stop the air flow into it, and it works just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Can you guys help me to identify the right air hole to block in the airbox? Please see the image below of the 2018 N1K airbox. Which one red or green....or maybe that isn't it either? Thank you in advance for your assistance!

 

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Thanks for an awesome review/report STNinja!

When you say that your bike runs cooler now, can you elaborate on that a bit more?

Cheers,

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for an awesome review/report STNinja!

When you say that your bike runs cooler now, can you elaborate on that a bit more?

Cheers,

Rob
Sure I will absolutely try! The temp display on the dash has an indicator that is incremented in "bars" that have 6 levels ranging from Cold to Hot not actual temperature and that is largely what I'm basing this on. In the "Stock" config, on a summer day where the temperature exceeds 80-85F and moderate to high humidity the bars while in moderate traffic with a lot of stops and starts (my typical commute) would reach the 6th position fairly regularly but almost always the 5th position. It is also my understanding according to the owners manual that even if it reaches the 6th position this isn't necessarily a problem but it is getting close to being in a nearly unacceptably hot condition. I've not seen this but I believe the "H" hot indicator begins flashing once it exceeds the 6th bar to let you know something is going wrong. So with all that said, when I recorded the video that is attached the original post, it was a very hot and humid day and I noted somewhere in that video that the bars had only reached 4 bars and never exceeded that the entire ride. I also would note that the fan was running despite the fact that it was only at 4 bars and that was not the case with stock configuration. That fan, to my recollection, would never turn on until it reached the 6th position. So while I don't have actual temperature data I've concluded (possibly wrongly?) that the bike is running cooler in conditions where I would normally expect the temp indicator to be much higher. I don't think it made it into the video but some of my cutting room footage would also reveal that the heat that normally comes from the right side of the bike usually centered around my ankle was less severe....but I took that out because I wasn't actually sure if it was less and I wasn't sure if this wasn't just some confirmation bias? who knows? Its all anecdotal at this point but I believe that the bike is in fact running cooler at least in part because the fan turns on at a lower temperature and perhaps some of the other changes that have been made in the ECU, more free flowing exhaust, K&N air filter lets it breathe better and etc etc? Who knows? Hopefully that answers your question but I apologize if that isn't very clear...I ramble....make very long sentences....and thanks very much for the compliment.

-STN
 

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The hose with the red line...….right where the letter A in a circle is shown is the end that plugs into the bottom of the airbox. The easiest thing is to pull it free and plug it with something as Rcannon suggested. You may want to find something to cap off the tube in the bottom of the airbox when you do this. This should work just fine and cause no warning lights.

The other option is removing the entire pair valve assembly and install block off plates over the openings, ( leaving the reed valves in place ). It is a bit of a pain as you have to pull the airbox, and there is little clearance for getting to the front screw for the left side plate. Also you will need to do a jumper wire on the PAIR valve connection to fool it into thinking the assembly is still there or you may get a warning light.


The job of the PAIR valve is to introduce air into the hot exhaust stream at the exhaust port in order to burn off any unspent fuel or combustible gasses......to clean up the emissions. Thus the popping.
 

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Sure I will absolutely try! The temp display on the dash has an indicator that is incremented in "bars" that have 6 levels ranging from Cold to Hot not actual temperature and that is largely what I'm basing this on. In the "Stock" config, on a summer day where the temperature exceeds 80-85F and moderate to high humidity the bars while in moderate traffic with a lot of stops and starts (my typical commute) would reach the 6th position fairly regularly but almost always the 5th position. It is also my understanding according to the owners manual that even if it reaches the 6th position this isn't necessarily a problem but it is getting close to being in a nearly unacceptably hot condition. I've not seen this but I believe the "H" hot indicator begins flashing once it exceeds the 6th bar to let you know something is going wrong. So with all that said, when I recorded the video that is attached the original post, it was a very hot and humid day and I noted somewhere in that video that the bars had only reached 4 bars and never exceeded that the entire ride. I also would note that the fan was running despite the fact that it was only at 4 bars and that was not the case with stock configuration. That fan, to my recollection, would never turn on until it reached the 6th position. So while I don't have actual temperature data I've concluded (possibly wrongly?) that the bike is running cooler in conditions where I would normally expect the temp indicator to be much higher. I don't think it made it into the video but some of my cutting room footage would also reveal that the heat that normally comes from the right side of the bike usually centered around my ankle was less severe....but I took that out because I wasn't actually sure if it was less and I wasn't sure if this wasn't just some confirmation bias? who knows? Its all anecdotal at this point but I believe that the bike is in fact running cooler at least in part because the fan turns on at a lower temperature and perhaps some of the other changes that have been made in the ECU, more free flowing exhaust, K&N air filter lets it breathe better and etc etc? Who knows? Hopefully that answers your question but I apologize if that isn't very clear...I ramble....make very long sentences....and thanks very much for the compliment.

-STN
Thanks STN

Yes, unfortunately I am quite familiar with the way our engine temperature gauges work on the 2017 and up models.
Earlier this year, my bike did go to the 6th bar and the flashing red warning light came on.
I won't rehash it all here so as to not hi-jack your thread, but if you are interested, a thread on the whole shmozzle can be found here:
https://www.kawasakininja1000.com/forum/ninja-1000-issues-troubleshooting/22034-2017-overheating-issues.html

Up until the incident described in the thread above, I had never seen the temp gauge to to 6 bars.
Since I've had the thermostat and water temp sensor replaced, it hasn't "overheated" again, but I am wondering about ways to make the bike run cooler.
Not sure that I would want the fan to come on sooner than the 5th bar (which is when it comes on with the stock configuration) - which I understand that most ECU flashes tend to do - but maybe that is the only way.

Great to have you on the boards STN - don't apologize for your writing style - you are polite and helpful!

Cheers,

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey guys one last question. So I tore the fairings off the bike tonight and lifted the tank. I found the hose that goes into the bottom of the air box and back to the pair valve. This hose is on the nipple very tight and I do not have a lot of space to get leverage on the hose to pull it off. Here are some of the ideas I’ve had since positively identifying the hose.

1) I opened the air box up and the hole that leads to the hose is quite clear and easy to get at. Would it be acceptable to block the hose from inside the box since I believe that would take two steps and turn it into one step. My idea is to find a screw that is close in size but maybe slightly larger, dip that screw into RTV and then just threat the screw into that hole very carefully and slowly to establish threads as you go. The RTV would seal the hole and be removable if you ever wanted to go stock again. In my opinion this should accomplish the objective without ever having a loose hose or air re-entry into the airbox?

2) use a razor to just cut the hose at the base of the nipple. I believe there is enough slack between the AIS and the air box and should allow for reattachment of the hose though it would be an inch shorter?

3) someone tells me to just do the work and wrestle that hose off the nipple and deal with it Stormtrooper! I just need to know what the flaw is in my plan one.

Thanks you for the advice!

-STN


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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If you can reach the ais valve just pull the hose and cap the air box and the valve. That's what I've done to most of my bikes. Or there's the good ole fashioned appropriate sized marble lol.

I can see the appeal to wanting to be able to revert back, but at the same time I have never taken a bike back to stock. Once that crap is blocked or deleted it pretty much stays that way. I vote cut the hose at the fittings and just cap them.
 

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I don't see why blocking the hole from inside the airbox would not work......sounds like a good plan.
 

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Hello StormT, the solution to your exhaust popping and backfiring is the removal of the PAIR valve. As John has explained, popping/backfiring occurs (after installation of aftermarket full system exhaust) due to unburnt fuel being ignited in the exhaust. This does not become evident on a bike with a stock exhaust due to the baffling of the stock exhaust. It is not only much quieter but also does not allow fresh air to enter the exhaust. When the exhaust is opened up, so to speak, the deceleration pops are more noticeable since an open exhaust allows additional air to be sucked up the pipe during closed throttle and any unburnt fuel then ignites, resulting in popping.

I have the pair valve eliminator along with block off plates and it works like a charm. Note that the popping on my bike 'started' after I installed the Akrapovic headers along with G&G Moto2 cans. The installation of the pair valve eliminator along with block off plates completely eliminated the popping and the backfiring was reduced to insignificance. This is what I used:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PAIR-AIS-Valve-Eliminator-with-SMOG-block-off-plates-Kawasaki-Z1000SX-Ninja-1000/253618381374?epid=24020171424&hash=item3b0cd5623e:g:-VUAAOSwHQ9WXsWA&_sacat=0&_nkw=pair+valve+smog+block+off+plates+kawasaki+z1000sx&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

It is, to my knowledge, the best block off plates system available in the market as it contains an electronic PAIR valve eliminator with CNC machined block off plates which enable you to remove the full system - including the valve, the PAIR covers and the associated tubing. No cutting, no splicing. It's a quality kit and is very well thought-out and executed.
 
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