Easier Rear Paddock Stand Technique?

7681 Views 30 Replies 15 Participants Last post by Experience_Matters, Jul 11, 2016

Dan

Discussion Starter · Dec 15, 2014

Problem: I use two 8mm bolts threaded into the swing arm and the "forks" on my paddock stand to lift the rear wheel. The problem is that I align the left side bolt with the left side fork and the right side bolt is a inches higher than the right side fork and I just hope that the right side fork ends up aligning with the right side bolt as I push the stand down. This makes this operation a bit more stressful. Any kind of failure in this operation could end up with my perfectly pristine Ninja lying flat on the pavement (if there is any circumstance that a grown man is allowed to cry, that would qualify).

Solution: I tip the right side of the paddock stand up so the right side fork and right side bolt are already engaged BEFORE I push the handle down. Works like a charm. This should work with spools too. Letting the stand back down is done as normal (slowly and carefully).

Side story...This weekend I accidently left the two 8mm bolts in the swing arm and rode around like a madman all day. The bolts were extended enough to contact the mufflers. Late that night I remembered that the bolts were still in the swing arm

and I went down to check the damage. One bolt was missing and the other one was backed almost all the way out. No damage at all the mufflers. I am not encouraging leaving the bolts in the swing arm but you probably will be ok if you accidentally do it.

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GaryK

· #2 · Dec 15, 2014

There are some good youtube videos out there for stand usage.

My personal technique is to set the stand, depress with my left foot with my body on the passenger side of the bike doing to protect it from tipping over. I leave the kick stand down so if it falls the driver side it should catch it.

mrsand

· #3 · Dec 15, 2014

Lifting Rear Wheel

I use a block under the kick stand to level the bike upright; I then hand steady the bike on the passenger grab rail and roll the lift stand onto the spools and bring it up. When done I lower the bike down on the block. WaLa!!

Reactions: 2

Dan

Discussion Starter · #4 · Dec 16, 2014

Thanks for the replies. I will do the block of wood thing next time and maybe using my foot to push the stand down. I just ordered 8mm Keiti Mini spools on Amazon because the one reviewer said they fit his 2014 Ninja 1000 with no clearance issues.

Mikey1000

· #5 · Dec 18, 2014

I've a '14 & use a Pit Bull rear stand. This is my solution: 1) Place bike's front wheel in Baxley front stand to ensure it's secure & straight up. 2) Remove the rear deflector on the rear fender extender as that gives me just enough clearance to get the Pit Bull under. This will change soon as I'm going to mount a fender replacement so then will have plenty of clearance.

Reactions: 2

Dan

Discussion Starter · #6 · Dec 19, 2014

Thanks Mikey - My rear reflector and fender were in the way of the paddock stand too. I solved it the "cheap bass turd" way. I just cut the rear fender off with a hack saw just above the bottom of the plate. It looks fine.

mrsand

· #7 · Dec 20, 2014

Cutting the Fender

There must be different geometry with stands. My T-Rex rear stand does not touch the fender during use. I still have the whole fender.......

ToNY97

· #8 · Dec 21, 2014

Dan said:
Thanks Mikey - My rear reflector and fender were in the way of the paddock stand too. I solved it the "cheap bass turd" way. I just cut the rear fender off with a hack saw just above the bottom of the plate. It looks fine.

Join the club.
Search for the thread: Cutting the Fender, go to last page and tilt your computer 90 degrees to the right.

Airman

· #9 · Dec 23, 2014

Dan said:
Thanks Mikey - My rear reflector and fender were in the way of the paddock stand too. I solved it the "cheap bass turd" way. I just cut the rear fender off with a hack saw just above the bottom of the plate. It looks fine.

I had the same problem with my Oxford stand. I cut the stinger off below the license plate. I had hated how it looked anyhow.
Everybody I know has a story of having a misaligned stand that resulted in a tip over. I recently bought an ABBA superbike stand that works terrific. A pinch pricey though.

trublupsu94

· #10 · Mar 11, 2015

I have a quick question. The folks that are having the swing arm brackets for the 8mm bolts that get broken off, is this only for those leaving them on the bike and riding that way? Or are they breaking while just using the jack? I need to find a good way to lift the rear but don't mind taking off the spools each time i use it. Is this ok? Where are the scratches coming from people talk about? Is there a better way to lift the rear that is safe on the paint?

BAZININJA

· #11 · Jul 4, 2016

I have a Baxley chock. In order to do maintenance, is there any reason why I couldn't put the front wheel in that, and then use a regular floor jack or bottle jack and some scrap wood to lift the rear?

Ishikawa

· #12 · Jul 4, 2016

BAZININJA said:
I have a Baxley chock. In order to do maintenance, is there any reason why I couldn't put the front wheel in that, and then use a regular floor jack or bottle jack and some scrap wood to lift the rear?

It might not be as stable as a rear track stand if you're rotating the rear wheel (like for cleaning/lubing the chain), or applying force to undo bolts and such.

sdkoskey

· #13 · Jul 4, 2016

Have you thought about something like this?

I love mine. Easy to use once you get used to it and it's as stable as you could want. Although I got mine for just $30. Must have been lucky and caught it on sale.

BAZININJA

· #14 · Jul 4, 2016

sdkoskey said:
Have you thought about something like this?

I love mine. Easy to use once you get used to it and it's as stable as you could want. Although I got mine for just $30. Must have been lucky and caught it on sale.

I have something similar that I used for my Ninjette, but because so many people have been having trouble with the spool issue, I'm trying to come up with an alternative.

sdkoskey

· #15 · Jul 4, 2016

BAZININJA said:
I have something similar that I used for my Ninjette, but because so many people have been having trouble with the spool issue, I'm trying to come up with an alternative.

Take a closer look at that stand. It's not spool stand, it's a paddle stand. No spools needed. The paddles are spring loaded for different width swingarms. You slide them under the swingarms and lift. Easy-peasy.

Reactions: 1

Chrispy

· #16 · Jul 5, 2016

These things work great. Rear stand is super easy.

Kawasaki Z1000 2010 Spindle Sliders SS0030BK

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scubasteve711

· #17 · Jul 6, 2016

those work great, but if you need to remove the wheel, they aren't so great....

Reactions: 1

rcannon409

· #18 · Jul 6, 2016

Chrispy, I had the feeling he was asking about a no fail stand, in this context....

At some point , we grab our stand and decide its going under our bikes.

We line up the stand, then the bike needs to stand up, vertical, where it was once at an angle.

As it makes that move to straight up and down, theres an awkward moment. The bike needs to keep going to straight up, or back to its sidestand.

Meanwhile, you are holding the stand handle, and maybe a turn signal or the passenger grab handle with the other, and its not very comfortable. You accomplish the task, but wish that moment did not exist.

Is there a stand, or system that lets you have 100% control, all the time?

Experience_Matters

· #19 · Jul 6, 2016

I don't have any issues with my stand.
Ok I have paddock bobbin holders, that put them lower, but before that it was also very easy.

Tyre machine will be arriving tomorrow (hopefully) and I'll be putting S21's on the bike.
I'll record a video of my paddock stand technique, but can't imagine it is so different.
Never felt unsafe for me.

Chrispy

· #20 · Jul 6, 2016 (Edited)

scubasteve711 said:
those work great, but if you need to remove the wheel, they aren't so great....

Takes all of 30 seconds to remove both sides. You can stick a couple bolts in the stock mounts for tire changes.

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