Don't want a debate on oil, just need if this is ok

You're fine with that viscosity, it's in the service manual.

The main thing re: viscosity is what the bearing clearances were designed for, and since 50w is listed in the manual, Kawasaki's engineers seems to think it's ok.

Thanks, do you see any reason why I can't do that at the first oil change of 600 miles?

10-20 extra degrees is a big deal to us humans. To an engine thats running at 200 degrees, not so much.

We run a lot of equipment with similar cooling systems to our motorcycles. When its all said and done, 20 extra degrees, ambient, will often times do nothing to the overall operation. You might see fans cycle more often, but overall, nothing. Its not as if its 20 degrees warmer outside, therefore engine runs 20 degrees more hot.

I dont believe you'll notice any difference no matter what you put in, as far as weight goes. I feel like some brands shift better, but that might be in my head.

You do see the world superbike teams run "0" w oil....they also have engine allotments and factory paid for parts.

rcannon409 said:

You do see the world superbike teams run "0" w oil....they also have engine allotments and factory paid for parts.

Click to expand...

0Wxx oils provide superior protection at high temperatures than the equivalent 10Wxx. Take a 0W40 versus a 10W40. At 100 *C they have the same viscosity. At 0*C the 10 oil is more viscous than the 0. To show the different characteristics draw and XY axis chart with the X axis having temperature and the Y axis representing viscosity. Above the 100*C point on the X axis place a dot at an arbitrary point above it representing the viscosity at 100*C for both oils. Now go to the 0*C point and at a level higher than the 100*C dot put a dot for the 0 oil. Pick a spot higher than that for the 10 oil. Now draw a straight line from each of those that will pass the the single dot at 100*C. Notice that beyond 100*C the 0 oil line is higher or more viscous. So in extreme conditions the 0 oil does not 'thin out' like the 10 oil. At the 'cold' end the 0 oil is not as thick so you get lubrication to the engine much quicker at start up. Think of it as the best of both worlds.

I honestly don't think any of us would notice any difference in engine performance or longevity running 0W vs. 5W vs. 10W oil. Disagreements are going to be of the academic hair-splitting variety.

Anyone tried running water wetter in the N1K? I always had success with it, but haven't found the need yet on our bikes where I live. I feel like my bike runs cold? It seems to hang around 160?

First time poster so wading into oil debate may not be a wise move, especially since I'm not yet a N1K owner but thinking of it soon.

From my prior investigations, biggest thing is NOT using oil with additives that can affect wet clutch operations. A lot of oils with low viscosity numbers have additives that are not recommended for use with wet clutches. From a spec standpoint, anything listed as JASO-MA means approved for motorcycles with wet clutches. This includes Rotella T6 which says "Heavy Duty Engine Oil" but has the JASO-MA spec and can be had cheap at Walmart.

Link below describes the details of the JASO spec if you're interested.

JASO MA and JASO MB classifications - oilspecifications.org

I dont know a person who had had an issue using auto oil in a motorcycle.....there, I said it.

I did it for years, and still do in my dirt bike.

It osunds reasonable, so people buy in 100% and repeat it. Probably not th ebest choice, but it happens all the time.

Back in the 80's and 90's I ran auto oil. Redlines back then were about the same as the n1k. But with something as 'personally' valuable as our bikes I pay more for Amsoil cycle and will continue to do so. Like that insurance commercial 'it's not like they love their motorcycles' LOL.