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This is just my opinion, BUT, Kawasaki needs to do the right thing by all of the Ninja 1000 owners with the dry clutch issue. Don't make it a secret warranty item or hide it behind "noisy shifting" or anything else. Own it and do the right thing. Replace our current clutch hubs with clutch hubs that have proper oil passages, and don't make loyal Kawasaki owners fend for ourselves. We shouldn't have to drill holes in our own newer motorcycles. Just admit it needs fixing and fix it. You know it's the right thing to do and you know a clutch that won't release or becomes increasingly juddery on takeoff is bad for your reputation. Please show everyone why they should stay in the Kawasaki family and fix our bikes. Heck we'll even pay for the oil change, you get the hub and the gasket. I have to admit, how this is handled will affect where my next new bike money goes.

Anyway, That's my 2 cents.
 

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Yep - they've been crappy about it..... I drilled the clutch basket per rcannon's instructions and it fixed the sticking issue I had, but agree that it shouldn't have had to come to that.
 

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This is a strange situation, but ...

This clutch is not a Kawasaki part. FCC Japan makes almost 99% of all clutches in motorcycling. F.C.C. Co.,Ltd.

Based on this, I think a manufacturer, like Kawasaki, may be reluctant to jump in and start modifying a vendors products????

OK..thats bs, but worth noting is the 2016 went to a new clutch system. No need to do that if the old clutch was awesome, right? So they knew, and choose to do nothing.

Seriously, my original clutch made odd sounds twice in 6000 miles. Never a problem, just an odd noise.
 

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so does that mean it would have been worth the extra 1.2k bucks to get new rather than leftover? Shoot, I hope not.
 

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I think the clutch issue stems from the fact that Kawasaki has mounted it in a housing that gets very little oil circulating into it- just a dribble from the inside of the center shaft. There is nothing wrong with the clutch itself: it is an entirely standard design and is very much like every other wet clutch in motorcycledom: it just suffers from a lack of available oil mist in the housing.

The fact that only some bikes and riders have an issue suggests to me that the effect of the low oil supply is affected somewhat by the user as the clutch will get a bit more oil whenever it its disengaged and the lift lever is moved. Kawasaki may be reluctant to issue a blanket recall or service bulletin because of this intermittent nature

Of course, Kawasaki have been reluctant in the past to address or correct "known issues" with certain machines, such as the balance shaft chain tensioner in the KLR series. I was aware of the potential for an issue when I purchased my leftover '14 N1K and planned on making the modification from the outset. I asked my dealer about it and they professed to know nothing of it, and would not proactively do the work as it wasn't something Kawasaki would reimburse them for before there was a complaint.

In the end it was a pretty easy job to do, and didn't even require draining the engine oil. Since I did it before ever riding the bike I can not say one way or another if it was actually necessary.
 

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so does that mean it would have been worth the extra 1.2k bucks to get new rather than leftover? Shoot, I hope not.
No. You can drill the stock clutch for free if you do it yourself, and even paying a shop would not amount to much, if needed.

Or, the 2016 clutch can be added, for way less than 1200.
 

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It is definitely crappy they don't make this an official recall/TSB. That said, I've come across many common issues on cars over the years and unless it's a real safety concern, they're usually not very eager to do anything about it. Sad but true unfortunately.

A good example is the oil cooler seals on my diesel Mercedes. They are known to fail because the material used for the seals was sub par causing an oil leak. This is roughly a $2k repair once out of warranty...
 

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Clutch

No. You can drill the stock clutch for free if you do it yourself, and even paying a shop would not amount to much, if needed.

Or, the 2016 clutch can be added, for way less than 1200.
RE:2014 N-model

hey..got a question....assuming its true that the housing design somehow obstructs oil circulation--does placing a newer slipper clutch in relieve the system of the poor circulation? Are the newer clutches pre-drilled or less reliant on oil movement? Inquiring minds want to know:)
 

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It is definitely crappy they don't make this an official recall/TSB. That said, I've come across many common issues on cars over the years and unless it's a real safety concern, they're usually not very eager to do anything about it. Sad but true unfortunately.

A good example is the oil cooler seals on my diesel Mercedes. They are known to fail because the material used for the seals was sub par causing an oil leak. This is roughly a $2k repair once out of warranty...
Thought I'd pass along one story about recalls ------ only slightly related to the thread title so sorry about that

I'm sure you all remember the stuck throttle on Toyota cars a few years back. The announced fix from Toyota was to change the floor mats, that they were getting stuck in the accelerator pedal.

I have an '07 Lexus that was recalled for that fix. Personally I didn't believe that was the root cause and there was a lot of speculation that in fact it was a problem with the ECU - that in the case of a bad signal, the gas signal took priority over a brake signal.

So i take the car into the shop for the announced floor mat change - imagine my surprise when I get the car back, the work order shows floor mat change, AND ECU FLASH!

Anyways, I didn't keep that work order so i can't show it here to prove it, but thought someone might be interested (could be wrong though)

now back to your regularly scheduled programming....
 
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Good one!

Thought I'd pass along one story about recalls ------ only slightly related to the thread title so sorry about that

I'm sure you all remember the stuck throttle on Toyota cars a few years back. The announced fix from Toyota was to change the floor mats, that they were getting stuck in the accelerator pedal.

I have an '07 Lexus that was recalled for that fix. Personally I didn't believe that was the root cause and there was a lot of speculation that in fact it was a problem with the ECU - that in the case of a bad signal, the gas signal took priority over a brake signal.

So i take the car into the shop for the announced floor mat change - imagine my surprise when I get the car back, the work order shows floor mat change, AND ECU FLASH!

Anyways, I didn't keep that work order so i can't show it here to prove it, but thought someone might be interested (could be wrong though)

now back to your regularly scheduled programming....
 

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<snip>
So i take the car into the shop for the announced floor mat change
<snip>....
Yes, it had to be a little suspicious that they needed to take your car into the shop ostensibly just to change the floor mats.

I can imaging the Lexus PR people explaining it: "Did we only say floor mats? Oh, yeah, there was this other (finger quotes) E...C...U... thingy we also had to do."
 

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RC and myself both have a slipper clutch from a Verseys 1000 installed in our Ninja's.

It has a very light clutch pull, the parts have coating on them, and the hub is drilled with 6 holes from Kawasaki (or their supplier). The hub and pressure plate have rams built into them, on deceleration it causes the clutch pack to open up a bit preventing wheel hop on decel, on acceleration the ramps work to push the clutch together to eliminate slip under power.

Myself and RC had made a how to and a parts list on the RF board.

It's very easy to install,and you can retain most of the Ninja 1000 clutch plates if they are still good.

I just took my bike to the drag strip and beat on it, and the clutch was flawless.
 

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Unless RBW is perfected it's a twitchy bunch of cr*p. I'll take cable actuated for now.
A slipper clutch is the only thing I"d want and Ivanization sort of mitigates most of that need.

What I most want for X-mas is a better suspension set-up!
 

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Why ride by wire? The CC I could for sure get into.
I've never seen a non ride-by-wire bike with cruise control fitted as standard.

I don't know of any bikes that used servo cruise control, as cars used to use. With R-B-W, there is no weight or space penalty, apart from a few switches.

Mechanical cruise controls require constant adjustment to maintain speed.

Another plus of R-B-W, is that it permits a wide variety of adjustments to throttle response.
 

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I have to assume the older Goldwings and cruisers had typical Cruise control, as ride by wire was not a thing then.

RBW does have a space and weight penalty for sure, but it is relatively minor. The cost, and the cost to repair is not so minor.

It can easily be done either way, and be safe either way.

What I wish is that Kawasaki and the other OEM's would build into the main wiring harness the ability to add CC, then offer CC as an accessory. Make it $600 is to buy and have installed. I would have done that easily on my 2011 N1K.

It obviously does not need to be offered for every bike, but for long range possible bikes it should be. Touring bikes, Sport touring bikes, big cruisers, Bikes like the Super Duke Gt that is coming out. Things like that. Anything that is reasonable to ride across country two up in reletive comfort.

BMW offers CC on it's S1000RR, so the whole it's too dangerous for sport bikes is out the window in my book.

The japs are so weird, they way they do stuff makes me sure they still do not understand the American market to be honest.

Take the Verseys 1000 for instance. It's a really neat bike. I don't think the guy who wants a N1K would be swayed by a Verseys 1000. But the Verseys 1000 comes out and it has a neutered engine compared to the N1k. Why? That is STUPID. Give it the same freaking motor and power. Why not. They think it has to be some stupid teared power system. Thats not how we in America see it to be blunt. If i want a bike like an N1K I want the one that is the strongest possible for sure. If i want a bike like a Verseys I want the strongest one possible. One does not steal from the other (except in market shifts, which happen based on customer whim and advertising / current movies).
 
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