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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have problems with their ignition key being inserted into the bike's ignition ?


I've noticed its been getting more difficult throughout the summer. Then, at times, when I go to turn it to start the bike, it won't turn as easy as it use to. Almost have to pull up on it ever so slightly.


Any suggestions as to why this is happening or what to do ?
 

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Anyone have problems with their ignition key being inserted into the bike's ignition ?


I've noticed its been getting more difficult throughout the summer. Then, at times, when I go to turn it to start the bike, it won't turn as easy as it use to. Almost have to pull up on it ever so slightly.


Any suggestions as to why this is happening or what to do ?
I had a really hard time putting the key in the trunk lock....
the ignition was a little weird, but not as bad...

I puffed some graphite in to both and on the key and then went in and out (that's what she said)....
works like a charm now...
 

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I ran into Key problems with my 2012 model that were associated with the key being warped (twisted). In my case, I didn't have any trouble inserting the key; but, I did have problems turning it in the ignition. Initially (just like the OP above), I had to wiggle it gently up and down a little to get it to turn. However, eventually it got to the point that the key stopped working at all. I could still insert it into the ignition, it just wouldn't turn.

When I had replacement keys made, the locksmith said that it was not uncommon for a lot of the newer, longer motorcycle keys to get twisted in the gas caps as the key only goes in half it's length. Between the softness of the key's metal, and half of it sticking out of the cap when being turned (half the length not supported), it is not unusual for the keys to start to warp. That made sense to me, considering that there is a bit of resistance to turning the key unless you press down on the cap at the same time. That, by the way, was his recommendation for preventing the keys getting twisted: press down on the cap while turning the key.
 

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well crap...now that feral mentions it....my issue was the trunk lock and the gas cap...never the ignition....

---sorry to take up space ---
 

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I would still look at the key blank. The key must be made from some of the poorest base metal, ever. Then, look at tips thinnest points and imagine how strong it really is?
 

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Yeah these keys suck. I bent one of mine pushing it into the gas cap.

Going to take my key code to the dealer and get a new one made. Need an official Kawi key from the code, not a copy.
 

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Something a bit weird or stubborn with both the ignition and the gas tank on mine since new,,. Reminds me to do the graphite thing,,. How bought WD40, will it work?
 

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WD-40 Facts and Myths

I’m often asked if it’s “OK” to spray WD-40 into a lock or into a keyhole or keyway. The answer is ABSOLUTELY YES! There are many misconceptions about WD-40 that have been around for years, one of the biggest is that WD-40 contains water, this is not true, and in fact WD-40 displaces water when sprayed onto metal srufaces. The W -stands for water and the D -stands for displacement. Another big misconception is that
WD-40 gums up a lock over time if sprayed into the lock, this simply is not true. I have been using WD-40 to lubricate locks for over 30 years and I can tell you emphatically that “WD-40 DOES NOT gum up locks”. WD-40 is a light lubricant and degreaser. It’s true that it’s lubricating ability won’t last as long as something like 3-in-1 oil, but check this out —> 3-in-1 oil sprayed into a lock WILL eventually become rather sticky and thick and cause the lock pins to move up and down sluggishly, I know because over the past 30 years I have tried 3-in1 and WD-40 when lubricating locks. WD-40 will not get gunky / sticky the way 3-in-1 will. In particular I like to use WD-40 for spraying into the keyway where you insert the key. Because it is a light lubricate and tends to evaporate over time, you use it more often, but, because it’s a thin lubricant it’s less likely to attract dirt and works great for “washing out dirt and debris from the keyway, also great for squeaky hinges. If you choose to use graphite (which I detest because it messy) you might want to try the “white” graphite instead of the “black”, the black graphite will get on your hands and clothes when you touch the key after pulling it out of the lock. WD-40 is your friend, don’t be afraid to use it. 🙂
 

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Wd-40

I agree with Lag. WD40 works well for me, it has many uses.

I also like how its cleans the grime from my wheels....polishes up the rims very well.

40 is a light lubricant, works well for the short term.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Problem solved.

Brought out the WD-40 and is now working like new.

Thinking the root of this problem was my bike had been in the back of my truck for a few days and we had sone heavy rains come down.

Guessing the accumulation of rain/moisture in the ignition and tumblers is not the greatest thing. If the tumbler pieces aren't stainless steel, could see them becoming corroded.

The WD-40 seemed to smooth things out.
 

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The guy that wrote the WD-40 Facts and Myths is a 30 year lock smith,,. Ill be doing mine tomorrow, the tank lock is really bad,.My truck ignition jammed right up, from sitting 6 months with the wheels cranked, not smart,. Looked on U Tube and they said pound with a rubber mallet on the end of the key and WD 40, wouldn't believe it but it worked and just like new,,. Sure beat hauling to the dealer!!
 

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I use Bike-Aid Dri Slide periodically for keyholes, hinges, latches, and cables. I started using it for stuff on my bicycles years ago, so I figured it would work on my motorcycles, too. The latches on the NT700V sidebags were notoriously finicky, but I never had a problem with them; I'm assuming the Bike-Aid did the trick. It's a molybdenum disulfide.

It also doesn't help that the keys are so blasted long so that they bend easily; I had the same problem on the NT, too. I had a third ignition key made so I have one to use regularly, one backup on my wallet key hook, and one stashed at home. It's ridculous that the Kawi key blanks are 15 bucks. It only cost me $2 to have it cut by a human; I wouldn't trust the machines at the box stores to do it right.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
I figured I had it narrowed down to the ignition itself because I took the backup key that I got with the bike when I bought it and it was just as hard to put it in the ignition as well.


As for unlocking the tank cap, you DO have to take some care when opening it. Those keys are somewhat long and it takes some force to turn. Add the pressure buildup of gaseous air within the tank itself and it can put a lot of strain on that key as you turn.


As someone said, always push down on the key/cap as you turn to relieve some of that stress on the key.
 

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The length of the key, plus the shitty gas caps = twisted key in no time. I ditched the locking gas cap, and use Houdini lock lube on the rear case locks. Stuff works great. Locks need maintenence too, most overlook that. Add to that the locks on moto's spend most/all their time outdoors, so they are at the mercy of the elements. If neglected, they'll fail just like any other part.
 

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Old thread but worth reading,. Was out on a ride yesterday and went to fill up and the key got stuck in the gas lock, its been acting up for a while and I keep forgetting when I'm at home so i searched out this thread and have re read what was good advise,,. I eventually got the key out however It felt as thou that lock was screwed,,.

Today I went after it with WD-40 and once it loosened up I add a very minor amount of lithium grease and the lock is as new, did the trunk lock as well,,. One thing I noticed is that there is some corrosion going on with the tank lock mechanism after a few years now, so add a little WD 40 to your maintenance list even if the locks are fine,,. Bike is stored in doors since new and rarely used in the rain,,.
 

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well crap...now that feral mentions it....my issue was the trunk lock and the gas cap...never the ignition....

---sorry to take up space ---
I agree, I find the gas cao very finnicky, trunk lock not great either. Might drop a tiny bit of thin oil into it. Graphite surely good also.
 

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well crap...now that feral mentions it....my issue was the trunk lock and the gas cap...never the ignition....

---sorry to take up space ---
Hey mate,

I have. For some reason, the ring/plate that sits on top of the actual key cylinder can rotate. Don't know why but it just does.

Easy fix- you key can only be removed in two angles- ignition off and handle lock. Insert your key ever so slightly and turn the plate to either of the aforementioned angles and you'll be fine.
On a side note, I appreciate how annoying it can be when the key doesn't get in right.

Hope this helps.
 

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This lock lubricant that I found is amazing. I wish I were smart enough to be able to pronounce its brand name. I'm not sure I know what a "pflegespray" is. It must mean "key"?
29426
 

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I check Amazon.de for the ABUS lube and they are willing to ship to the US but for $40, which is too much. But I too desperately need a lock lubricant, the dry graphite doesn't work, it just gums up the barrel and makes it even worse. WD40 does work to lubricate it, but doesn't last more than a week or two and the tumblers get stuck again...

EDIT: has anyone tried Balistol?
 
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