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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know the part number for the coolant drain plug crush washer? Will be doing a coolant change soon and would like to get a couple to keep around. Thanks
 

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I'm not even sure where the real drain is, on this bike. Ok, I just found it in his video. I use the lower hose, on the left side of the bike. If you loosen the clamp, you can work the hose off of the motor side. In this video, notice how the lowest hose is 2 inches (or so) lower than the drain bolt. Look just to the left of where hes working. It lower, so it should drop as much coolant , or more, than you can from the real drain.

Of course, the washer is listed in the oil pump section of the parts lock-up. Just where we expected it to be....?

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks rcannon409. I was looking for it in the water pipe diagram. I was wondering if I'd been hitting the water pipe while I was looking for it there.
 

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It's the lower right hand bolt on the water pump housing....no need to remove a hose. I just flushed my coolant. I also reused the aluminum crush washer without incident. :)
 

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I like the hose because its lower in the system. Also, of there are any chunks, or large particles, they flow out of the hose easier than the drain. Hopefully yours is early enough to not have an issue. I found several clamps that were loose. Not leaking , but not tight enough. Not a bad idea to check them as most are easy to access.

I love the diagram. Is there a better place to hide this bolt than in the oil diagram?
 

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I re used the crush washer as well,,. Next time I think I will do it RC's way?
 

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I think I said, "lowest" hose and that's not correct. The gose I remove is the lower section of the one that connects to the radiator.

I've had mine off at least 5 times, since 2012, so its not stuck in place. You dont even need tools to remove it once the clamp is loose. I really dont think it matters much, on this specific bike, where you drain it from. Especially if you do this once per year. The coolant never gets old, so if some gets left behind, whatever.
 

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I think I said, "lowest" hose and that's not correct. The gose I remove is the lower section of the one that connects to the radiator.

I've had mine off at least 5 times, since 2012, so its not stuck in place. You dont even need tools to remove it once the clamp is loose. I really dont think it matters much, on this specific bike, where you drain it from. Especially if you do this once per year. The coolant never gets old, so if some gets left behind, whatever.
no need to take the left fairing off if you drain it from the bottom radiator hose? Am I correct?
 

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I think I said, "lowest" hose and that's not correct. The gose I remove is the lower section of the one that connects to the radiator.

I've had mine off at least 5 times, since 2012, so its not stuck in place. You dont even need tools to remove it once the clamp is loose. I really dont think it matters much, on this specific bike, where you drain it from. Especially if you do this once per year. The coolant never gets old, so if some gets left behind, whatever.
no need to take the left fairing off if you drain it from the bottom radiator hose? Am I correct
 

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You might not have to, but it's a lot easier if you do.
just got done with my fluid drain and refill. I watched the video of 2014 fairing removal and all went well. Very easy with bolth sides removed. I did use the drain plug and not the hose. Coming from the Hd world this is all new to me. Great info on the forums!
 

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just got done with my fluid drain and refill. I watched the video of 2014 fairing removal and all went well. Very easy with bolth sides removed. I did use the drain plug and not the hose. Coming from the Hd world this is all new to me. Great info on the forums!
Nice work! You will find that this bike is quite easy to work on and you can easily do all of your own basic maintenance...even pulling the fairings is very easy! :wink:

I should have bought me one of these "Ninjer's" years ago (Just bought mine a few months ago too)!
 

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You guys probably know this, but just like a car, its important to make sure the system is full after a flush and drain. You have to burp the system. Pinch the rubber hoses and send air out of the system, then top off with more coolant. Sometimes you get by doing nothing, other times you get trapped air bubbles.

Just check the level after the first few miles. Be prepared to add, if necessary.
 

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You guys probably know this, but just like a car, its important to make sure the system is full after a flush and drain. You have to burp the system. Pinch the rubber hoses and send air out of the system, then top off with more coolant. Sometimes you get by doing nothing, other times you get trapped air bubbles.

Just check the level after the first few miles. Be prepared to add, if necessary.
I ran the bike up to operating temperature before I put the fairing back on and topped it off. I will check it again. Thanks for the heads up.
 

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There is a burp screw in the water pump also. Start up the bike and burp it immediately, then continue to warm the bike all the way up and burp again. All it takes is to loosen up this screw a little until only coolant is flowing out without bubbles.

 

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There is a burp screw in the water pump also. Start up the bike and burp it immediately, then continue to warm the bike all the way up and burp again. All it takes is to loosen up this screw a little until only coolant is flowing out without bubbles.

good to know , thanks
 
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