Coolant quantity
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If you follow the Service Manual, and use the coolant drain plug, located on the water pump, then you will not get all the coolant out as the hose from the bottom of the radiator to the water pump is below the level of drain plug hole.
If you want to drain all the coolant, then forget about the drain plug and just loosen and remove the coolant hose from the bottom of the water pump.
If you want to drain all the coolant, then forget about the drain plug and just loosen and remove the coolant hose from the bottom of the water pump.
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Can you please send the pic of the water pump hose and locate it on the Bike.
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You wont need a pic. Look at the bottom of your bike, left side, under the engine. There is your hose.
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Oh ok. Will check it out. Thanks
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Thank you
As RC has commented, you really dont need a photo.
- Take the left-hand (gear shift side) fairing off the bike and find your radiator. Jason Long on YouTube has a video on how to do this.
- At the bottom, left-hand side of the radiator is a rubber hose. Follow that hose back under the engine to where is is clamped to a steel pipe.
- Undo the hose clamp on the radiator and the hose clamp on the steel pipe
- Wiggle/push the rubber hose off the steel pipe and drain the coolant.
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All this process should be done only when th
Oh, ok. Thank you for detailed explanation. Will check that video too.
Ooooooops ... my mistake, it is Johnathan Long and the link to his excellent video on removing the N1K fairings is
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No problem. I checked jonathan long’s coolant change video. But, he also uses Drain bolt, Not the water pump pipe.
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Anyways, I’ll do the both ways. I’ll drain from the drain bolt and also disconnect the water pump pipe. There’s another channel called ‘i am scud’. He has done it both ways
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The manual says 3.1 quarts for capacity, but I dont believe mine held that much. I bought a full gallon of the Honda blue coolant from the Honda car dealer and had a bunch left over.
On this specific bike its bery easy to change.
On this specific bike its bery easy to change.
The small volume of coolant in a N1K combined with the small radiator are a big part of why the N1K is so sensitive to over-heating in "stop-go" traffic, especially if you have not flashed the ECU.
Think of it this way, fill a tin can (soup, baked beans, etc) with water, and fill a 40 gallon drum with water and apply the same volume of heat to both. Which one will boil first ??
Your typical family car (Toyota Camry) holds around 7 litres of coolant and has a radiator at least twice as thick and will sit for hours in peak-hour traffic with no ill effects.
Think of it this way, fill a tin can (soup, baked beans, etc) with water, and fill a 40 gallon drum with water and apply the same volume of heat to both. Which one will boil first ??
Your typical family car (Toyota Camry) holds around 7 litres of coolant and has a radiator at least twice as thick and will sit for hours in peak-hour traffic with no ill effects.
Of itself, there are no adverse effects, provided the cooling fan moves enough air through the radiator to meet or exceed the amount of heat being put into the coolant by the engine.
However, should your cooling fan be "old & tired" and not spinning at the required rate, or the amount of coolant is on the low side, then more heat is being put into the coolant than what is being taken out. End result = boiling coolant and a potential warped cylinder head.
My point was that the N1K does not have a large marging of error compared to your average family car.
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