[mrsand]

I realize there are many products developed to properly clean the drive chain.

I was talking to a long time biker who told me he cleaned his chains with
WD-40 and a clean rag if the chain was not full of sand or muddy. I was wondering if others in this forum also might have tried this. I also wonder if the WD-40 has any adverse effect on the X-ring or o-ring seals?

Happy TG to all.........

 

[Mikey1000]

I've used WD-40 on bike chains for years with no evident issues. I clean mine with a "Grunge Brush", originally designed for dirt bike chains, with various brands of chain cleaner. WD-40 applied mainly to prevent side plate rust.

 

[old fart]

I always thought WD40 was a no no for o ring chains.

 

[rcannon409]

I've never had an issue in just wiping the chain off. The wd might be nice for the outside of the chain, but thinning down the dirt and grease, on the outside?

I seldom "clean" my chain, but if I do, that Shout laundry stain remover does a decent job, and is not harsh enough to hurt the o rings.

Otherwise, just wipe off with an old cloth towel and re-lube.

 

[JohnC]

I'd heard the same thing old fart did - no WD-40 on your O-ring chain. I've always used kerosene to clean and 90-weight to lube.

 

[mrsand]

chain cleaning

I'd heard the same thing old fart did - no WD-40 on your O-ring chain. I've always used kerosene to clean and 90-weight to lube.

I checked a few stories and have concluded for myself that I don't want the WD40 on the X-ring seals....wiping the sides of the chain may be ok to do. I will just buy the cleaner designed for the job and forget it. I will make it a routine to lube between 300 and 400 miles or sooner if it looks dry...

 

[Chagall1012]

Chain lube and also maintaining the proper slack on the chain are very important.

I have been using kerosene to clean and either 90W oil or regular chain lube. Never had any problems. The chain brush works wonders.

What i've used WD-40 for has been to create a little film on the rear rim so that any excess lube doesn't stick to the rim after riding following the cleaning lubing.

Here is a very good video on chain cleaning/adjusting specific to the N1K

 

[SailorJack]

Chain lube and also maintaining the proper slack on the chain are very important.

I have been using kerosene to clean and either 90W oil or regular chain lube. Never had any problems. The chain brush works wonders.

What i've used WD-40 for has been to create a little film on the rear rim so that any excess lube doesn't stick to the rim after riding following the cleaning lubing.

Here is a very good video on chain cleaning/adjusting specific to the N1K

Easy Motorcycle Chain Adjustment & Cleaning - Step by Step - YouTube

Exactly. 90W oil and proper slack in the chain equals long replacement intervals. I'm at 229XX miles on the original chain and sprockets. No noticable wear. I'll still replace at 30000 miles though. Just peace of mind.

 

[mrsand]

chain cleaning & adjustment

Chain lube and also maintaining the proper slack on the chain are very important.

I have been using kerosene to clean and either 90W oil or regular chain lube. Never had any problems. The chain brush works wonders.

What i've used WD-40 for has been to create a little film on the rear rim so that any excess lube doesn't stick to the rim after riding following the cleaning lubing.

Here is a very good video on chain cleaning/adjusting specific to the N1K

Easy Motorcycle Chain Adjustment & Cleaning - Step by Step - YouTube

I have not owned a chain driven bike since 1975...now that I have the Ninja I want to make sure I do it right. Thanks for the video Chagull1012. My next question is about adjusting the chain. The owners manual says put the bike on the side stand when adjusting. The dealer I bought from puts a person on the bike in the vertical position with full weight when making the measurement of the slack. I realize there may be different procedures but what is best when the rider is alone? ON THE STAND WHEEL IN THE AIR OR ON THE side stand tire grounded?

 

[Chagall1012]

I've always done it on the side stand tire grounded. that's what the owner manual calls for so you should be covered. The whole exercise isn't meant to be super precise. you just have to be within the range.

I understand where Rcannon409 is coming from. for years, I just wiped the chain with no problems on older bikes. But I guess that with the Ninja being a more expensive bike than what I'm used to, I don't mind taking that extra step.

 

[Marauder]

Use kerosene, and it's cheaper than dirt too.