Joined
·
2,079 Posts
Been doing this since my first bike was a dirt bike. Clean shiny tubes have been a mantra ever since. A few extra seconds per wash saves lots of work changing seals.
Ceramic waxes?
41 - 60 of 64 Posts
Joined
·
16,482 Posts
You used normal old Turtle wax style too, I imagine? I used that as well. The orange bottle, New Finish had been my go to for years. The Amazon stuff JJs told me about was surprising. You can feel the difference before and after.
If a person is doing this, be sure to wax the entire tube. Modern fenders make this difficult as the back side of the tube is hard to deall with. You can clean the shock, too.
This spray makes this much easier. Don't get the spray on the brakes, obviously.
It's also a good opportunity to check the fork leg. If your rag gets caught on a defect, like a rock hit, use a knife sharpening stone to dress the damage. Don't try to repair the nick. Just make it smooth.
If you do this at every bike washing, your fork seals will last forever. Forever might be over the top, but you'll replace them out of guilt rather than wear, or leaks.
If a person is doing this, be sure to wax the entire tube. Modern fenders make this difficult as the back side of the tube is hard to deall with. You can clean the shock, too.
This spray makes this much easier. Don't get the spray on the brakes, obviously.
It's also a good opportunity to check the fork leg. If your rag gets caught on a defect, like a rock hit, use a knife sharpening stone to dress the damage. Don't try to repair the nick. Just make it smooth.
If you do this at every bike washing, your fork seals will last forever. Forever might be over the top, but you'll replace them out of guilt rather than wear, or leaks.
Joined
·
2,079 Posts
Yup, good ol' Turtle Wax. "Stiction" was the term coined for the front forks not working well under the stress of braking and reducing stiction was half the reason for doing it. On my early dirt bikes, fork oil weeping onto the fork legs was just how forks worked! Changing/adding oil back then was so easy, drain plug on the bottom, dump oil in the top.
My high mileage VFRs went almost "forever" on a set of seals. The '90 had 60k+ miles on it before there was any weeping. The '98 went 80k+ on it's original seals. The '87 went through a couple sets by 78k miles but I was in a serious "adventure bike" phase then. I remember putting the original seals back on the fork leg between the dust cap and new fork seal as kind of a double wiper.
Only once in all my bikes do I recall a physical dent in a fork leg. The mechanic who was doing all my tires at the time told me he touched it up with a wet stone and not to worry. It pretty much disappeared once he did that. The old "right side up" forks used to have easy access to the tubes. Now, not so much on our Ninjas. Given the sanded off paint on the font fenders I can see why they cover them.
Glad you mentioned using with care around the brake rotors. I was thinking about how I was going to be able to spray the wheels without getting it on the rotors...A cardboard shield maybe, like I use when doing the chain. Have to think about it.
My high mileage VFRs went almost "forever" on a set of seals. The '90 had 60k+ miles on it before there was any weeping. The '98 went 80k+ on it's original seals. The '87 went through a couple sets by 78k miles but I was in a serious "adventure bike" phase then. I remember putting the original seals back on the fork leg between the dust cap and new fork seal as kind of a double wiper.
Only once in all my bikes do I recall a physical dent in a fork leg. The mechanic who was doing all my tires at the time told me he touched it up with a wet stone and not to worry. It pretty much disappeared once he did that. The old "right side up" forks used to have easy access to the tubes. Now, not so much on our Ninjas. Given the sanded off paint on the font fenders I can see why they cover them.
Glad you mentioned using with care around the brake rotors. I was thinking about how I was going to be able to spray the wheels without getting it on the rotors...A cardboard shield maybe, like I use when doing the chain. Have to think about it.
Joined
·
16,482 Posts
I never spray around the rotors. I shoot some on the towel, then wrap it like that. I probably waste more, but it can't get on the rotor.
I can't even guess as to how many times I messed up and accidentally shot a rotor with something. Always an accident.
I don't know if I was ever sensitive enough to feel a stiction difference. But your right, it does make a difference. That has to help with wear. The dust seals took a dump on my stock forks. I wish I would have used the ceramic coat, or 303 on them. Maybe it would have helped?
I can't even guess as to how many times I messed up and accidentally shot a rotor with something. Always an accident.
I don't know if I was ever sensitive enough to feel a stiction difference. But your right, it does make a difference. That has to help with wear. The dust seals took a dump on my stock forks. I wish I would have used the ceramic coat, or 303 on them. Maybe it would have helped?
Joined
·
306 Posts
Interesting discussion. My wife got a new car last year - 2022 Subaru Crosstrek. We took it to a local shop that put a 9 year guaranteed ceramic coat on it for a lot of money. Any damage to the paint caused by chemicals, bird crap or sap will be covered in the warrantee. The only caveat is that we have to take it back once a year for about $30 to have them wash it and update the coating as needed. Everything was coated - wheels, plastics, mirrors, everything. The car is super easy to clean. Everything just sprays off in seconds. And the gloss is amazing.
Joined
·
16,482 Posts
Your car coating must be a more serious version of what we have? I guess you don't do any sort of waxing ? Just the basic wash as far as your maintenance goes?
Joined
·
306 Posts
Yep. I haven't had to put any wax on that car yet. Over a year and it looks like new. Loving it so far. I took it to a car wash over the winter and only used plain water to hose it off. EVERYTHING came off. Bug guts, dirt, everything. I was amazed at how easy it was to clean. They said up front that I'd never have to wax it and if I saw any blemishes in the paint, we could take it back for "paint correction". Obviously, accidents and stupid stuff I do to it wouldn't be covered.
Joined
·
11 Posts
As Agent Orange said, any bottle of liquid that claims to be ceramic or contain carnauba wax tends to be a gimmick. A ceramic coat requires meticulous preparation from a full de-grease, clay bar and at least a 3 stage polish then wipe down with a panel prep before applying. Done properly, the application of the ceramic can take a full day on its own. A real ceramic coat will last 18 months+ and deliver insane water beading with strong self cleaning properties and a great shine. It bonds with the paint work at a molecular level. They also offer a level of scratch protection too. If the clear coat is HB on the pencil scale, a ceramic coat will generally be a 2H. They are maintained with careful washing and the application of spray toppers from the same brand as the ceramic coat you applied. My personal choice is Gyeon. A ceramic suspension gel is not a ceramic coat.
If you're just looking to just make the bike look good, a carnauba wax will give you that gorgeous wet look finish. A good carbauba wax will be over 50% pure no.1 by volume. In it's natural state it's as hard a concrete so requires mixing with oils to make it a spreadable wax. The higher % the longer it will last and better it looks but application can be difficult and can sometimes look smeared. I've paid hundreds for top waxes (60% carnauba) and was not disappointed. The other product I'm familiar with are polymers like AutoFinesse Power Seal or Blackfire paint sealant. These tend to be easy to apply and give a harder shine than waxes but lack the wet look. They don't last nearly as long as ceramic but are a decent mid point if you don't want to spend a lot on waxes. A good paint sealant won't claim to be ceramic or carnuaba based and as an amateur detailer, I stay well away from products that claim to be multiple things and are half the price of either...
There's a great channel on youtube called Forensic Detailing Channel if you want science based tests and not personal opinions.
Hope this helps your bike look amazing!
If you're just looking to just make the bike look good, a carnauba wax will give you that gorgeous wet look finish. A good carbauba wax will be over 50% pure no.1 by volume. In it's natural state it's as hard a concrete so requires mixing with oils to make it a spreadable wax. The higher % the longer it will last and better it looks but application can be difficult and can sometimes look smeared. I've paid hundreds for top waxes (60% carnauba) and was not disappointed. The other product I'm familiar with are polymers like AutoFinesse Power Seal or Blackfire paint sealant. These tend to be easy to apply and give a harder shine than waxes but lack the wet look. They don't last nearly as long as ceramic but are a decent mid point if you don't want to spend a lot on waxes. A good paint sealant won't claim to be ceramic or carnuaba based and as an amateur detailer, I stay well away from products that claim to be multiple things and are half the price of either...
There's a great channel on youtube called Forensic Detailing Channel if you want science based tests and not personal opinions.
Hope this helps your bike look amazing!
Joined
·
16,482 Posts
You guys have some great info. Thank you. I'm sure these cheap, easy to apply waxes we bought are a gimmick, but they are easy to apply and they do work fairly well. It's hard to be critical of something that takes all of five minutes to apply...and that's on a city Bus. I can "wax" my bike in 2 or 3 minutes with this crap...I mean, wax .
What is in them? Or, more specifically, is anything in them that might be considered "new"?
What is in them? Or, more specifically, is anything in them that might be considered "new"?
The Turtle wax hybrid was easy to apply, and gave a good shine with the least effort that I have ever used. But it is not a miracle. I last waxed the cars with this wax about 3 months ago but both cars, even the one I did twice in a row, has no sign of wax or water beading. Our cars are kept outdoors, and it has been raining a lot And the sun beating down. Bugs are bugs, they still stick to the motorcycle. I am back to using the old standbys as they are cheap, I have them, and I clean my motorcycle enough that it does not really matter what product I use.
I will buy it again the next time I am looking to do a car as I don’t wax mine that often, and it was easy for that type of application.
But for my motorcycle, I do not think there is much benefit except more shine, as I clean it about every 2 weeks and clean bugs off after the weeks commute, or a long weekend ride. Free tip, Avoid your seat with this stuff, as it makes it harder to stay on the bike under acceleration. But if you do not mind the price, it did make the bike look nice and shiny.
I will buy it again the next time I am looking to do a car as I don’t wax mine that often, and it was easy for that type of application.
But for my motorcycle, I do not think there is much benefit except more shine, as I clean it about every 2 weeks and clean bugs off after the weeks commute, or a long weekend ride. Free tip, Avoid your seat with this stuff, as it makes it harder to stay on the bike under acceleration. But if you do not mind the price, it did make the bike look nice and shiny.
Joined
·
5 Posts
As a painter. And newish member who was accused of everything under the sun for posting how ridiculous it is for people to look down on custom painted sport bikes. I always have the clearest and most shine to my paint than any sport bike I come across. Because I've tried almost everything there is. And the absolute best do it yourself wax to get the best results and is practically fool proof. Is Mothers Hybrid Ceramic Wax in the yellow bottle. And after you apply and remove 1 application. Wait 1 hour, reapply, and this time spray Chemical Guy's blazin banana spray wax or their lucent spray shine synthetic wax onto the coated surface to remove. This will give you the best version of what you've got. Which unfortunately isn't much with a factory painted bike. These bikes are sprayed with costs first and foremost. So they get the thinnest micro layer of color, and an equal micro layer of clear. So you'll never get a rich looking shine with depth. They're at around 8 mil thick, a paint job that's eye catching will be twice that thick.
Maybe one day plastic bike owners will become more numerous in the bike shows.
Joined
·
16,482 Posts
I remember you! I'm glad you are back.
True, I didn't care for the colors you chose, but the quality was excellent and it was obvious you knew what you were doing. The bikes did look good. Thank you. I'll try some of the Mother's brand.
The thin paint makes diy touch up very difficult for a non painter. Could you fix a scratch on this thin paint?
True, I didn't care for the colors you chose, but the quality was excellent and it was obvious you knew what you were doing. The bikes did look good. Thank you. I'll try some of the Mother's brand.
The thin paint makes diy touch up very difficult for a non painter. Could you fix a scratch on this thin paint?
Joined
·
26 Posts
I have used Pledge or Mr Sheen for years and years on all my bikes, leaves a great wax and shine. Ye it has silicone and stops bugs and road grime from sticking on. Use it regularly after each ride and the bike will look smick.
Joined
·
26 Posts
I believe this product was tested on Beavers!!
Joined
·
16,482 Posts
We used Pledge 40 years ago at the motorcycle shops. It smelled good when you had 50 bikes lined up. Much better than the average Beaver.
It didn't last long. That's what would be nice about the expensive finishes.
I'm sure the Amazon stuff we bought is awesome, but my gradaughter stole it for her car. It's been a while since I've seen it, or the 303 that I use on the rubber parts.
Half way between Salt Lake and Las Vegas is all this place is, but the towns name is cool .
www.beaver.utah.gov
![Sky Plant Natural landscape Land lot Font]()
It didn't last long. That's what would be nice about the expensive finishes.
I'm sure the Amazon stuff we bought is awesome, but my gradaughter stole it for her car. It's been a while since I've seen it, or the 303 that I use on the rubber parts.
Half way between Salt Lake and Las Vegas is all this place is, but the towns name is cool .
Beaver County, UT - Official Website | Official Website
www.beaver.utah.gov
Joined
·
785 Posts
Those shaved beavers get pretty slippery when they are wet I hear???
41 - 60 of 64 Posts
