Joined
·
16,482 Posts
We will see. I'm pretty impressed, so far. It doesn't take a long time to apply. It said to add a second coat, 24 hrs after the first. I'll do that.
Ceramic waxes?
21 - 40 of 64 Posts
Joined
·
16,482 Posts
I bought the stuff JJS suggested. I kind of like it. You can do a car in a few minutes. It also doesn't look like crap if you spray it in the black, plastic.
I also bought the 39.00 chemical guy stuff, from Wal Mart. I don't know if it's worth 39.00, we'll see. It might be a little better than the spray, but it's a lot more work to apply. Overall, I like the spray.
I also bought the 39.00 chemical guy stuff, from Wal Mart. I don't know if it's worth 39.00, we'll see. It might be a little better than the spray, but it's a lot more work to apply. Overall, I like the spray.
That is why I have used the Eagle 1 Nanowax for so long. I spray that stuff on the raw plastics, rubber, windshield, and it looks better, not worse. So I also use it on my bikes as if it hits something other than painted plastic or metal it is no big deal...just wipe of the excess, and easily buffs out. It also never scratched or swirled on me and gives a wet gloss look with minimal effort. Sometimes difficult to even out the wet look on flat paints, not that long wearing compared to paste wax, and it will not clean oxidized paint, tar, dried bugs etc. But for newer vehicles with good paint, it is one of the easiest to get good results from, without much work at a fairly low prce. At some point I will try some ceramic though.
Joined
·
16,482 Posts
Do you find these sprays to be as durable as the old fashioned wax on/buff off products?
I've been a carnauba wax (usually Meguiars) forever. Rub on, buff off, a ton of work. For the last two years I've been using Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic. All I can say is that it's is so easy, gives a better shine, nothing seems to stick to it, and it lasts far longer. I'm sold, never going back to conventional paste wax.
Joined
·
2,079 Posts
OK, OK, I give up. This old dog is about to learn a new trick. After 50+ years of pasty wax, rub on, rub off, buff and thinking the spray on stuff had to be BS...I'm convinced science and chemistry have marched on and done something better. Thanks @jjscsix, @rcannon409, @Kevin, @Adrexco, @1hr_ride, @axif, @WackeyCat, @Mark Drabsch, did I miss anyone? for your reviews. Way more convincing than any commercial.
Joined
·
16,482 Posts
Kenors, I know....I fought this, too. But then I had the entire car waxed in about 5 minutes. If it's at all durable, I'm sold.
Amazon sold me the one JJs mentioned for 19.99. It's well worth that.
Amazon sold me the one JJs mentioned for 19.99. It's well worth that.
Joined
·
136 Posts
Kenors, I'll just piggy back on what RC said. Yes the new ceramics are that much better. I used the best synthetic sealants from the best companies for many years and eventually setteld in to Klasse sealent glaze. The best you could buy for durability, made in Germany. It wasn't always the easiest to work with, but the most durable.
I decided to give the ceramis, graphene a try and they are simply much better. All the new reputable products are excellent, but 303 Graphene>TWHS>Griots Ceramic.
GRIOTS 3 IN 1 CERAMIC WAX VS TURTLE WAX HYBRID SOLUTIONS CERAMIC SPRAY COATING - YouTube
303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating vs Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray Coating... Winner? - Bing video
Yeah me too. The only reason I switched was due to a youngster motor head colleague who insisted I try it and brought a bottle in for me. AT that time I had the Arabian Red C14. I never really liked the color as it looked brown. We wiped it down with the TW Hybrid Ceramic in about 5 minutes and I couldn't believe how the color popped and shined. On my way home I stopped at Wally World and bought one for myself.
Joined
·
136 Posts
Not at that price, but you need to find a different store. I bought at a F&F store and the difference was only $2, just like amazon.
I gave in and bought a bottle of Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic from the local auto parts store ($17). It is super slick once buffed off with a dry cloth and looks good. The machined metal parts and the satin SS exhaust on my Triumph looks amazing after using it. It does the best job I have ever seen on the raw plastics. For this reason alone, it is worth the extra price to me.
All this talk about old school paste wax got me to thinking...spray on wax really cannot clean or polish paint or clearcoats. Paste and thick liquid types of waxes still have their place in my opinion.
I waxed with a thick liquid "squeeze" wax the other day. It made the bike look so much better, and the paint is so much smoother. Yes, it is even slicker and better looking after applying this Ceramic spay on wax, but I am not sure it would look and feel so good if just used alone.
I applied the ceramic wax to the new KQR Panniers tonight. The raw plastics look awesome; the painted plastic bits look just ok after application as the surface is not as slick and smooth to the touch as the painted plastics on the motorcycle that were waxed the other day with liquid wax. So I will still be using conventional wax to clean and polish, and time will tell if this replaces my existing spray on waxes with better longevity...I suspect it will as the raw plastics due look better.
All this talk about old school paste wax got me to thinking...spray on wax really cannot clean or polish paint or clearcoats. Paste and thick liquid types of waxes still have their place in my opinion.
I waxed with a thick liquid "squeeze" wax the other day. It made the bike look so much better, and the paint is so much smoother. Yes, it is even slicker and better looking after applying this Ceramic spay on wax, but I am not sure it would look and feel so good if just used alone.
I applied the ceramic wax to the new KQR Panniers tonight. The raw plastics look awesome; the painted plastic bits look just ok after application as the surface is not as slick and smooth to the touch as the painted plastics on the motorcycle that were waxed the other day with liquid wax. So I will still be using conventional wax to clean and polish, and time will tell if this replaces my existing spray on waxes with better longevity...I suspect it will as the raw plastics due look better.
Joined
·
16,482 Posts
That says a lot when you can get a person to change wax brands. I never really thought about it, but I've been buying the same car wax since the early 80's.
My granddaughter could care less, but she's learned to steal anything that says "303" or "Maxima Sc1" from my shelf.
My granddaughter could care less, but she's learned to steal anything that says "303" or "Maxima Sc1" from my shelf.
They learn fast don't they?
She's been watching you grandpa!!!😎🐸Lovely, I have been a detailer hobbyist for a while now, While paint correction and paint protection go hand in hand we may sometime skip the correction and go with protection. Wax and sealants both have their merits and the type of gloss they offer. wax protection lasts a bit lesser than sealants though. The fastest way of doing it right would be to to
1. Soak vehicle with foam/shampoo and then hose it down, dont use a power washer especially on dirty vehicles .
2. When the surface is wet clay the surface ( do read up on the proper way to using a clay bar else you could scratch the surface of the paint) if not comfortable skip the clay bar
3. Use a paint cleanser to clean the surface ( prep for a wax or sealant)
4. I use a Sealant Ultima Paint guard plus for its ease of use ( wipe on and leave) and gloss and protection
5. If i have time i may use Wax in lieu of sealant , it takes effort to apply and to buff it out, If you have a dual action applicator then it makes it easy ( for Wax less is more)
Once you done with this, post regular washes you can apply a quick detailer like meguiars etc to retain the slickness.
As for the new ceramic based waxes/sealants etc . they are all marketing gimmics with probability of 10% improvement in gloss ( except for Ceramic/glass coatings which is a different product all together and yeah dont go by the 9H hardness thats a load of Shyt
1. Soak vehicle with foam/shampoo and then hose it down, dont use a power washer especially on dirty vehicles .
2. When the surface is wet clay the surface ( do read up on the proper way to using a clay bar else you could scratch the surface of the paint) if not comfortable skip the clay bar
3. Use a paint cleanser to clean the surface ( prep for a wax or sealant)
4. I use a Sealant Ultima Paint guard plus for its ease of use ( wipe on and leave) and gloss and protection
5. If i have time i may use Wax in lieu of sealant , it takes effort to apply and to buff it out, If you have a dual action applicator then it makes it easy ( for Wax less is more)
Once you done with this, post regular washes you can apply a quick detailer like meguiars etc to retain the slickness.
As for the new ceramic based waxes/sealants etc . they are all marketing gimmics with probability of 10% improvement in gloss ( except for Ceramic/glass coatings which is a different product all together and yeah dont go by the 9H hardness thats a load of Shyt
Joined
·
16,482 Posts
I never followed this subject at all. All cars are good for is to tow motorcycles.
It became interesting after we bought a Lexus. The paint on it as compared to the other cars we had was unreal. It wasn't as nice as the new Ford Trucks, but it was world's ahead of what I had before. Deep. Thick. Heavy. The complete opposite of my Ninja
I don't suspect you would do much correcting on a Ninja 1000, would you? The Lexus you could do what you want. Am I seeing this correctly?
It became interesting after we bought a Lexus. The paint on it as compared to the other cars we had was unreal. It wasn't as nice as the new Ford Trucks, but it was world's ahead of what I had before. Deep. Thick. Heavy. The complete opposite of my Ninja
I don't suspect you would do much correcting on a Ninja 1000, would you? The Lexus you could do what you want. Am I seeing this correctly?
Only around the tank area specifically since thats where micro scratches happen the most. and only if your wax or sealant doesn't mask it
After waxing my wife's 2017 Honda CRV today...well let me tell you I am a convert. The horizontal surfaces had not seen wax in a couple of years, and traditional waxes were making a white haze that I could not buff out. Eagle 1 made moisture swirls that would not buff out. The Turtle Wax Ceramic hybrid just fixed it. You could feel resistance on all the difficult areas, and then it just buffed out, smooth, and clear, and deep gloss. When I say buff, I just mean by hand with a dry cotton T-shirt. The plastics look so good..makes the back to black from Mothers seem like a joke.
The Eagle 1 did good on the side of the car and the plastics, but the Turtle Wax Ceramic Hybrid just did better. In the end, I just sprayed the whole car with it.
I once ruined the roof of a mini-van with Turtle wax...so I have not bought it in 20+ years. Today, I thought I might ruin the roof of anther card, and glad this new wax came to the rescue. Either way, I am converted to these new ceramic waxes.
The Eagle 1 did good on the side of the car and the plastics, but the Turtle Wax Ceramic Hybrid just did better. In the end, I just sprayed the whole car with it.
I once ruined the roof of a mini-van with Turtle wax...so I have not bought it in 20+ years. Today, I thought I might ruin the roof of anther card, and glad this new wax came to the rescue. Either way, I am converted to these new ceramic waxes.
Joined
·
16,482 Posts
One other good use for any of these waxes and coatings is for the fork tubes.
If you keep the fork tube clean and slick, the seal will last a long time. Hard water spots tear up the seal. Both of the ceramic coatings I have do a great job on the tubes.
You will save a lot by not damaging the seals.
If you keep the fork tube clean and slick, the seal will last a long time. Hard water spots tear up the seal. Both of the ceramic coatings I have do a great job on the tubes.
You will save a lot by not damaging the seals.
21 - 40 of 64 Posts
