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Took this photo last weekend along the Blue Ridge Parkway, sometimes phone pics turn out nice.

Picked up this 2011 Ninja 1000 just a couple months ago. The only mods I have done are V&H cat-back exhaust tips, modded seat, Zero G screen and Chinese brake levers. It performs quite well as most of you already know. However, I'm ready to start tweaking on it this winter. I just ordered new Galfer brake lines and have just started looking into an Ivans reflash. I want to keep mods on the cheap side. I may spend as much as $1K total so I'd like to see what some of you who have done all this stuff might recommend? I'll be riding this bike on the street and in the mountains. It's not likely to ever spend anytime on the track. Just looking to improve performance and all day ride-ability. So far this is what I am considering

1) Galfer lines $100.00
2) Ivans ECU reflash $350.00
* Can I do an Ivans ECU reflash with V&H exhaust?
3) Healtech exhaust servo eliminator $60.00
4) Healteach GIpro gear indicator $160.00
5) Cyclops LED headlights $135.00

Total: $805.00
 

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Hi,
Good stuff already. I installed a 16 T front sprocket, still wheelies but not as wild. Also more important is I can start in 1st gear and turn a corner without having to shift to 2nd in the turn:)
Perry
 

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Front Sprocket - best mod
Gear Indicator is nice... especially if you still have the oem front sprocket... it tells you to stop trying to kick it in 7th gear LOL
Ivans is a no brainer
I would probably ditch the slip ons and go with a full Akrapovic exhaust.. the header is the HP limiter.
I don't have a servo (2014) but sounds like it makes sense.
 

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2 things about your list..

3) Healtech exhaust servo eliminator $60.00
Since you have the new exhaust, isn't your server disconnected? If so, why spend the money on the eliminator.. I know the server motor is weight just under the seat but it's so light it doesn't seem worth it to remove it at a cost of $60

4) Healteach GIpro gear indicator $160.00
Another option is to get one of the hall effect gear indicators. It changes gears as you move the lever which means it doesn't care that you re-gear or that you have the clutch held in... That does mean that if you blow a shift (move the lever, but don't get into gear) that it will read incorrectly... It will self correct the next time you go to 1st gear (cross neutral). The big reason I went with the hall effect gear indicator is that my total investment is about $40 and that includes extra wires, wire connectors and an extra magnet..

Also, Since I'm in the Southwest US where speed limits are 75mph etc I did the 16T front sprocket change (and 55 rear tire).. It got my RPMs low enough to stay out of the buzz even when cruising at 80mph+... I don't wheelie so I can't say how much it'll change that but it still has plenty of acceleration for me.. Also, like @GaryK said, it's nice to have a taller 1st gear as it's usable in the 1st gear turns... I don't run out of RPM mid turn.

~Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #5
2 things about your list..

Since you have the new exhaust, isn't your server disconnected? If so, why spend the money on the eliminator.. I know the server motor is weight just under the seat but it's so light it doesn't seem worth it to remove it at a cost of $60

Another option is to get one of the hall effect gear indicators. It changes gears as you move the lever which means it doesn't care that you re-gear or that you have the clutch held in... That does mean that if you blow a shift (move the lever, but don't get into gear) that it will read incorrectly... It will self correct the next time you go to 1st gear (cross neutral). The big reason I went with the hall effect gear indicator is that my total investment is about $40 and that includes extra wires, wire connectors and an extra magnet..

Also, Since I'm in the Southwest US where speed limits are 75mph etc I did the 16T front sprocket change (and 55 rear tire).. It got my RPMs low enough to stay out of the buzz even when cruising at 80mph+... I don't wheelie so I can't say how much it'll change that but it still has plenty of acceleration for me.. Also, like @GaryK said, it's nice to have a taller 1st gear as it's usable in the 1st gear turns... I don't run out of RPM mid turn.

~Mark
The new ECU reflash may just limit the need for the HealTech servo eliminator? I'll ask before I place my order

The cool thing about the HealTech GIpro is that it is plug and play and looks to be a easy mod. However, I'll check out the Hall Effect now that you've made me aware of it.
 

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The new ECU reflash may just limit the need for the HealTech servo eliminator? I'll ask before I place my order

The cool thing about the HealTech GIpro is that it is plug and play and looks to be a easy mod. However, I'll check out the Hall Effect now that you've made me aware of it.
Here is what it looks like installed.. I Just cut a hole and used some "right stuff" (rtv) to hold it.. If I were to do it again I'd probably push it through the dash a little to get it a cleaner look.




I can't remember if I ever posted the video on this site, but here is the video I took right after updating my install (I first installed it just to make sure it worked)... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qs-fx1PTMLE


It it is defainatly NOT plug and play but it took only a few hours total and that includes the wiring in the connectors... When I first installed it I wasn't using a quick connector so I couldn't disconnect the sensors (by the shifter) from the head.

~Mark
 

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3) Healtech exhaust servo eliminator $60.00

On my 2011 I just removed the cables from the server. Added the Yoshio cf.
 

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ECU flash and nice exhaust system would be my pick. Stock sound is "ok" but nothing too exciting.

The other ones would be seat and windscreen for me but you already have those :).

Nice pic btw!
 

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As for the Cyclops LED headlights, fan cooled LEDs can be somewhat problematic on bikes. If the fan dies, the LED will quickly thereafter. Do they supply a different boot for the headlight as well? Most of the fan ones have issues with the stock boots.

I do agree the lights need help. I went with passively cooled LEDs and still now where I want to be. I am going with some aux LEDs to bump it up AND get the color temps I want. I really don't like much over 5500K for color temps and prefer 4000-5000K. Many companies lie about the temps.

Not to mention I don't really like the headlight patterns on the N1K anyway so aux lighting may be the best way to go and it isn't that expensive to do.

By all means do Ivan's reflash. My brakes on my '14 are awesome so I can't comment on the need for lines. Are you getting a spongy feel to the brakes?

As mentioned by others I'd go with a 16T countershaft sprocket. Bike is just as fast as before but has better cruise manners and a higher top speed. I am also not looking for an 8th gear on the highway, just a 7th... :D

I've done other mods such as an auto chain oiler and it saves me a lot of time and was worth the investment of about $140. Hyperlites for the rear have already saved me from getting punted from behind so well worth the $90 I spent there.
 
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