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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
57x. Yes, I called Core Moto. They cannot make the brake line because the ABS end connects with a threaded fitting, not a banjo bolt.
 

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That sucks because their lines are excellent. They have a quality feeling to them that the others don't.

If you could get by extending the threaded section, you might find help, locally. I don't think our fittings are anything that you wouldn't find on a Japanese car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Just got off the phone with Spiegler. They are making my custom line today and will arrive by Friday. Excellent customer service.
 
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You probably already know, but figure I'd mention it just in case... do make sure you specify not just the length, but also the "clocking" between the end fittings. Those lines don't like to twist much, and if the clocking is off by a good bit, you'll have a tough time installing one end or the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Thanks Volfy. The Spiegler ABS end swivels. So this allows for the play needed. I tried to choose carefully. The ABS end is stainless 70 degree bend that swivels. The caliber end is stainless with a 45 degree downward bend and a 20 degree bend to the left (towards the caliper). Spiegler measures straight line distance. So the bend radius does not count towards the total distance of the line. I ordered a line that is 1.6 inches (28 inches) longer than OEM (26.38 inches).
 
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I had a Galfer from the pre swivel days. If it had ever unwound, it would have thrown me across the street.

When I ordered my Core lines, I used clear vinyl tubing to measure the length. Too long is as bad as too short.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
For $13 I can have the line shortened if needed. But if it were to be too short then I’d SOL and have to order another new line.
 
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It sounds like they have really gotten with the program. I love that theres no covid excuse. I'm sure they had color options? I really need to fix my rear line, although I think I can invert the master cylinder side and save a small amount of distance. Rotate the fitting, and it might be ok?
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I dont remember if the caliper, or hanger ( spell check suggested HANG HER) was supplied with mounting bolts . I think they were m6? Maybe m8?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
They have all colors of the rainbow it seemed, to choose from. Same for color of the fittings. I chose the smoke colored line and stainless for the fittings.

Looks like you could rotate the banjo. The bend will then be on the outside of the mater cylinder.

The Active bracket did come with the caliber bolts. Mine were a size M8.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
The Spiegler line arrived today as I was told. I'll finish the install tomorrow. Got the line in place. However I need to align the ABS line and caliber line within the manifold (coupling) provided by Spiegler so I can bolt it to the frame.
 
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Mine was difficult to bleed. The bleed port ends up on the bottom of the caliper. That's the worst spot it could be in. I used my air powered bleeder, and that worked well.

I should have inverted the caliper? I think that's possible if it was off the rotor. Maybe use a piece of plastic to simulate the rotor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Thanks for the that tip. Did not get around to finishing the job today. Too many honey do's.
 
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Mine was difficult to bleed. The bleed port ends up on the bottom of the caliper. That's the worst spot it could be in. I used my air powered bleeder, and that worked well.

I should have inverted the caliper? I think that's possible if it was off the rotor. Maybe use a piece of plastic to simulate the rotor?
I have a thumb brake on my track bike. I couldn't get the air out. Picture bleeding what seemed like a mile of brake line to get from the rear axle to the left clipon. I finally threw the caliper on the ground and made sure there were no low spots as it wound through the frame. I hung the master from the ceiling with a bungy cord. I added a bleeder brake line bolt. I filled it up and left the bleeder open overnight. The next morning I hooked up my vacuum bleeder and magic occurred. It was fully bled. Pain in the arse.
 

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Mine was difficult to bleed. The bleed port ends up on the bottom of the caliper. That's the worst spot it could be in. I used my air powered bleeder, and that worked well.

I should have inverted the caliper? I think that's possible if it was off the rotor. Maybe use a piece of plastic to simulate the rotor?
Yap. Some Italian bikes are like that and have to be bled with caliper removed. Anything that keeps the pads apart would work. I would use a piece of scrap plywood. Even if you use the lever to pump fluid, you'd be opening the nipple, so pads won't see full pressure.
 

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I can do a fluid change, no problem, but the initial bleed was tough. With everything dry, the master cylinder didnt move enough fluid.

The beake line goes through a loop on the inside of the swingarm. If I turned the caliper over, I would need to remove the rear wheel. I dont believe there was enough room without doing that. There was something that made that not as easy as it sounds.

It was 20 degrees, outside. Maybe 30 in the garage. It wasnt worth heating the garage as brake bleeding only takes a few minutes. Famous last words. It's funny because when this goes badly. I'll bet I used a full can of fluid. No big deal because I wanted to flush my used master cylinder, but even at that, it never removed the air.

By them I was hoping I would die and not have to let my hands warm up. Real mechanics dont wear gloves.

The next day I hooked my harbour freight, 19.00 special brake bleed machine to my air compressor. I let it build up to 80 psi and pulled the lever. I could see the fluid level drop, in the reservoir. Two pulls later, I had a rear brake. That was awesome because I couldn't test it. It had snowed so I was screwed again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I got the line connected today. What a PAIN. I ended up taking off the muffler hanger and the muffler to allow more space to work. The Spieler line has a larger bolt than OEM, so you cannot tighten it to their manifold (coupling) while it is bolted to the frame mount. There is no enough room to spin the line connector bolt because it pinches against the frame bracket bolt. So you have to remove the frame bracket, tighten up the lines to the manifold (coupling). Then reattach the bracket to the frame. There is little to no space in this area because it is so close the rear shock.

Use my Habor Freight brake bleed tool to get fluid to the caliper. It worked good with 20-25 psi of suction. Did not have enough time to ride and try it out. Will do that tomorrow hopefully. I'll post a few pictures.
 
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
31415


31416


31417
 

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Your caliper is different than what I have. Probably the same thing, but my line mounts on the side. Makes more sense, now, why yours didnt fit. The line looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I noticed that too, that your P32 had different location for the bleed valve and brake line. I like yours better. I got my caliper cheap on eBay for $85. Most of P32 on there are like the style I bought.

I thought the line looked good too. The length turned out to be just right. I like the Smoke color. The rubber for the attachment points was supplied by Spiegler. From order to arrival was 3 days. I would not hesitate to buy from them again.

I bought Vesrah pads for it even though the caliper came with new Brembo pads. But I bought the wrong pads. Should have ordered the Vd-911. So I reordered the right pads and waiting for arrival (supposedly today). That JL compound pad was much cheaper than I expected. Like $18.

Another goof of mine for this project was the fitting shape for the caliper attachment. I ordered a 45 degree downward bend with a 20 degree horizontal bend to the left (towards the bike). I should have ordered a 45 degree upward bend. Since the ABS attachment swiveled, I was able to make it work. Spiegler would change out the fitting for me, but again since the line worked out, I am just going to use it. Maybe I'll getting it changes out in the winter...maybe not.

I think my next upgrade will be adjustable rear sets.
 
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